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512dude

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About 512dude

  • Rank
    member
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

Converted

  • Homepage
    www.climbcanada.blogspot.com
  • Occupation
    Neurosurgeon
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  1. Exit 38 - Gun Show New Routes

    Was out at Eastern Block and climbed the Hurricane route. Its over a little too quickly but given the nature of the area it feels like .10d to me. The steep thing up the left wall in the Block of Doom alley ~.11c Thx Frank, are you putting up more in the area?
  2. Exit 38 - Gun Show New Routes

    The route left of Rat Face is in Burdo's EXIT 38 guide (1996, Rhinotopia Productions) but when I looked for it back when there were no bolts on it. Spoke to Bryan about it and he recalled not bolting it 'yet'. Looks like someone else got to it recently. Bryan called the route Black Market and offered a couple ratings 5.9 and 5.12a/b. Sort of indicates to me he hadn't finished it and maybe didn't update his draft before releasing his guide.
  3. Exit 38 - Gun Show New Routes

    There is another new route just left of Rat Face on the Deception Wall. 10 clips about 11- is the claim. Anyone know what the route 2 left of Ellie Sweet Kiss on Middle Eastern Block is? 5 bolts
  4. North Sister

    http://climbcanada.blogspot.com/2010/06/sisters-or-north-sister-mountain.html
  5. conditions in Mazama, WA?

    I'd save the gas money, things looked wet and cool - I'm sure there will be better weekends soon.
  6. North Sister

    Had a sweet trip into the beautiful Sisters mountains back in May. Climbed the SE Ridge as avalanche activity was on the go. Conditions were superb otherwise. Enjoy the photos!
  7. Iconoclast (snow creek wall) new rockfall?

    Three of us did it last week and the route seemed safe for us. I thought the 4th pitch up the 10c corner and which ended at the first set of 'fixed' bolts and chains was a bit mossy and vegetated for a classic. The start of the fifth was also green as shown below. We ended up bailing on the Hyperspace exit as some of the cracks were wet and were dealing with a thumb sprain.
  8. Special Avalanche Statement Significant avalanche danger at higher elevations on the volcanoes, mainly above 7 to 8000 ft Several strong storm systems moving through the region last week produced increased accumulations of new snowfall at higher elevations on the NW volcanoes from Mt Hood northward through Mt Baker and in the Olympics. With water equivalents during this period ranging from an inch to over 3 inches this weather likely produced new snow amounts of 1 to over 3 feet above about the 7 to 8000 ft level, greater at higher elevations and on southeast through northeast exposures where intermittently strong winds produced deeper drifting. These new snow amounts taper quickly below 6 to 7000 ft with only minor amounts of a trace to an inch or so of snow recorded at the 5000 ft level. This weather has resulted in significant unstable snow accumulations at higher elevations on the volcanoes, especially on lee slopes where unstable slabs of 3 to 5 ft or more may have developed over either previous crusts or some wet weak snow layers, depending on elevation and aspect. Most recent information from Mt Rainier indicates that Camp Muir has received about 2 feet of snow, with 3 to 5 ft drifts...especially on east exposures. Although only preliminary information on the recent avalanche accident on Mt Rainier has yet been received, it appears that the avalanche was a human triggered 3 to 6 ft deep hard slab, approximately 1 to 200 yards wide, and running about 1,200 vertical feet. Latest information indicates that the slide caught 11, buring or partially burying 4, one of whom remains unacccounted for at this time and is missing and presumed dead. Other climbing parties in the area were able to recover three of those who were buried or partially buried, two of whom suffered injuries necessitating airlift rescue from the site with the third able to walk out amid minor injuries. This serious incident underscores the fact that the weather not the calendar dictates avalanche danger on higher elevations in any mountainous terrain.
  9. Glaciers / Alpine / Rock

    Looking for some partners to play. I have almost 24/7 to go and a long hit list. Priorities are safety, skills and competency a must, gear and grades not such a big deal. Rainier - Liberty Ridge Shuksan - N Face Adams - Adams Glacier Hood - Sandy HW Shasta - Casaval Ridge Torment to Forbidden traverse Banks Lake - rock climbing Bugaboos Idaho Saw Tooths Castle Rock - Can.Rockies Yak Peak Hailing Peak - Sisyphus (21 pitches) Speed climb - infinite blisters (23 pitches) Disappearing Floor S Early Winters - The Passenger Colchuck Balanced Rock etc.
  10. Trip: Oregon Cascades - West Ridge Date: 5/11/2010 Trip Report: Mount Thielsen in winter conditions. Gear Notes: MSR Lightening shoes, ice axe, ski poles. Approach Notes: Used snowshoes - nice trail to the ridge and then follow your nose.
  11. Index TRs--serioulsy?!

    Can they do that now???
  12. Exit 38 - Gun Show New Routes

    Rad have you done the second pitch to the routes shown in the pic? It seemed a bit grim and there looked like some rock had popped off. Curious to know if it gets much traffic and if there are top anchors - couldn't see them. Thx
  13. House of Pain, no hanger, what's the deal?

    Where is this route? You could just go buy one, a nut and a washer and put it in. Check the bolt of course and make sure that it isn't bad and purposely removed. Use some Loctite if you want it to stay put.
  14. Climbing over at the Gun Show and jumped on a couple of newer lines not in the guide. This is what we thought they were and the 10+ was short but sweet. Note that GS3 is in the guide. Is there any place where the newer local 38 routes are being recorded? Maybe someone can start a Wiki page for Exit 38 and related routes.
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