ScaredSilly

Sounds a great way to work on your winter tan so you can hang out with the beautiful people (whoever they may be).

Having the pleasure to know Mike over the past ten years it will be great to see what he can do in DC. And I am not talking about the cleaver.

See the updated list on the next page.

The first time I went from Paradise to the summit crater was right about 24 hours round trip. Seems like we left Paradise around 5pm and walked up to Muir, arriving around 10pm. The best part was walking out of the white out just below Muir just as it was getting dark. We slept for a few hours and then climbed the Gib Route. The hit the summit crater but did not go over to Columbia Crest. Warren and I had altitude sickness as we lived at 200'. We stumbled down the DC and back to Muir were we picked up our bags and headed back down to Paradise which seems like we arrived at around 5pm. Funny, until today I really did think about this being a one day ascent but I guess it was. Oddly enough, today my harder ascents on Rainier tend to be three to four day climbs. Why? mostly cause we do things like come in from Carbon River. So we typically spend the night at a mid elevation camp (8k), stroll up to a high camp (10k-11k) on the Norwand side and relax, summit, and then come down to Sherman for the night then walking back around the hill and down to the Carbon RIver. This year we did the Kautz and we purposely tried to go slow. We could have gone faster but as Vince said we were on vacation (He had also just come off of Denali and was still recovering - which for a guy of 60 was great). And in the end we went faster than planned. For instance, on our summit day we left Hazard at 6am and got to the summit plateau at 10:30an even though we screwed around on top for 1.5 hours and were back down to Paradise at 5pm.

Just a little reminder folks the little c with a circle around it means the photograph is copyrighted. That means reposting as been done above is illegal. Further, even without the copyright mark it is still copyrighted. Unfortunately, the folks who maintain this website have to deal with it. Please be respectful and post links instead of the photo. All of the photos can be found in these two links: http://www.alpineexposures.com/pages/ueli-steck-smashes-the-grandes-jorasses-north-face-record http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/pillagecanadaice07

No worries, I have built so many platforms using an axe and my boots with crampons that I rarely use a shovel. Two people, two axes each is enough of a contingency for me. Maybe not enough for others. As for secretions the best way to avoid that is come up with a method for insuring clean snow. For instance, we often gather snow well away from where a camp is set up. We put the snow in a bag and set it next to the tent. The other is piss left - cook right.

Everything above plus one thought on the tents. If you both have descent but small light weight tents take both. May seem like over kill but on travel days set up one tent. On rest days set up both. You will certainly be spending multiple days at 14k so being able to spread out is nice. The other is that when you get ready move to 17k you can take one tent with with you and leave the other at 14k. That way if one person is not feeling well one can be high and one can be low. The stoves do not need to be a like but the pumps should be. As for shoves, take only one. One person can shovel while the other uses an axe. But as said in June you will find ready made shelters more than likely.

The crampons can be set up for either dual or mono. The antibots are for mono points only. They would need to be swapped out for duals. They can be used for glacier travel but to be honest there are better crampons out there for that. I used these strictly for ice. As for the rope it is 10.2 rope and would be a descent for top roping.

Outhouse rarely has any journalist merit anymore. Best used for butt wipe.

Grab a copy of Utah Ice. A very good guide to the ice that is around here. As for alpine climbing there are a couple of descent routes. If conditions are firm the S. Ridge of Superior is good fun. This peak is across from Snowturd in LCC. The excellent climb is the N. Ridge of the Pfiefferhorn also in LCC along the Maybird/Hogun Fork. You can find some good info on: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/wasatch_alpine_areas/105739328 I should also add that all over the Rockies we are having a very nice and deadly avalanche year. For instance, I doubt that I will climbing anything but Stair to Heaven in Provo Canyon for a while. There are huge bowls above climbs like Bridal Veil that when they rip the will be killers.

Saw this post ... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/858734/Feathered_Friends_Widgeon_Slee#Post858734

New Years Day blue light special - free CONUS shipping on the remaining two jackets and the crampons. Post up you want something - the posting will be the clock for getting free shipping for today only.

North Face Jacket is sold ...

Yeah, seems like he is trying to solo the Eiger. Not sure what to think of the blog. I guess we all need a little self promotion.

The economy sucks, new lower prices. Plus removed a few items that sold.

Dude you can easily get $50 for the puppies ... besides climbers, cavers love them. If you really want to sell them for $25. I'll take them and resell them.

Removed some the sold items.

One more item Trango Harpon Crampons. An updated version of the classic Lowe Footfangs. Set up for monopoint climbing. Comes with a second set of new mono points, antibot plates plus a spiffy crampon bag. Current points are in great shape and have never been filed. $75

Patagonia Womens Medium Wind Shield Jacket, light grey. Regulator Softshell. Again hardly worn as my wife did not really like it. $50 North Face Men's XL Gore-tex Mountain Guide Jacket Blue. The classic old school hardshell jacket. $30. Alpine Design Women's Small (6-8) Gore-Tex Jacket. Blue and Gold. Another old school hardshell jacket, $20. Beal 60m retired lead line - sheath is fine shape. Great as haul rap line. $25.

Nice photo montage.

The old blue shaft Chouinard tools had a composite shaft of Aluminum, wrapped in fiberglass, and bonded with epoxy. These tools held up remarkably well. Black Prophets had a similar construction. You are correct, BD also made some Carbon Fiber Black Prophets. I have a set of the straight shaft tools. I can not remember if they made some curved ones as well. They are easy to tell apart because the CF have a rubber grip just for your hand. The wrapped ones have a full rubber shaft.

Lets see I have a pair of hinged SMC with straps - great for my old 3/4 shank boots, a classic pair of Salewa hinged step ins - great for other boots as are my old Chouinard rigids, also step ins (by far the best expedition crampons ever made) and a pair of Trango Harpoons (can be dual or mono) currently set to mono. As for leash versus leashless. I used a pair of the Androids, POS used them once. I can get in and out of a pair of old twist leashes faster. Rather old school so I prefer leashes. But that does not mean I use them all the time. Hell I have been swapping tools mid move, high balling off the top for years, all tricks of the trade. And with all the fancy outriggers on tools these days they are just another form of "leash".

The gas price thing is a red herring. High gas prices have been a "problem" for the past couple of years. But yet ATV ridership has increased. The decline is probably been more towards the electronic generation. I am not sure the fees are the issue either - although I tend to avoid those areas. It will be very interesting to see what happens in the next four years. I see some real fights in the west over land issues, whether it be for water, minerals, or trails.

We walked the road in March 2006 after the first flood. The road was completely hikable then. The trail was gone in a few places. Were it was gone was in reality the old road. We bivied just before the little pass that gives you the first real view on the hill. Seemed that took us 6 hours or so. After the pass, the trail heads slightly down hill and to the east eventually dropping down to the lake. At this point we dropped down to the west and worked our way on to the moraine. This was a pain in places with unconsolidated snow. Coming back we found a better route. Find the path with the most wind exposed area as it will be easier hiking. I think about noon we finally dropped on to the Carbon Glacier eventually getting to base of the Willis were we bivied. Even with a low snow year the Carbon was some work. And we were glad not to be going higher til the next day. How was the suspension bridge going across the Carbon River? Did it survive?

The old blue shaft Chouinard tools had a composite shaft of Aluminum, wrapped in fiberglass, and bonded with epoxy. These tools held up remarkably well. My old hammer had a nice bend in it due to bashing a lot of ice. The newer carbon fiber tools from BD are fully fiber and resin.