CaleHoopes

Feel free to check out the Bushwhacker Climbing Club's basic Glacier Climbing course. We'll be opening up registration in Feb. The course runs 9 weeks long with 4 outings and a graduation climb up Baker with an option for Rainier Emmons after that. We teach crevasse rescue and many basic glacier climbing skills. The course usually runs around $350 - although I'm not sure of the cost this year. Great course - will go over gear, navigation, mitigating hazards, snow camping, proper footwork and axe work, etc. Our website is: http://www.bushwhackerclimbingclub.org Feel free to email me at caledh@gmail.com for more info. Also, if you don't want a commitment with a club, International Mountain Guides are an excellent guide service in Washington - and for more skills TEACHING, look into the American Alpine Institute.

One of the reasons I've always thought of alpine start from Muir is the avy danger in the afternoon and the melt out of rock in the afternoon. As the afternoon sun gets high, the rockfall actually increases on Cathedral. Also, the sun hitting the cleaver in the afternoon can cause some questionable sluffs. That's why I've always thought of Alpine starts on Rainier. I don't even consider AMS to be a factor. Yes, if you climb too high too fast, AMS is a factor, but you can mitigate it on a carry over, and through taking care of yourself.

Pete! No big deal. Fall City is a much better commute than Granite Falls! ;-) Why Issaquah? What DPS says. The location is great if you're into CONDITIONING for climbing/hiking. Between Tiger & Si itself, its very close (like 5 minutes from Issaquah to Tiger trails). I will admit, I'd love to do more up HWY 2, but my location in Sammamish makes it a hard drive to get anywhere in a reasonable amount of time. I can be up Tiger & back in 1.5 hrs with a good workout.

For working in downtown Seattle, out I-90 is your best bet traffic wise. Keep in mind that this commute is very dependent on WHEN you need to get to work. Therefore, I'd suggest: Mercer Island, Eastgate (Bellevue), Issaquah, Issaquah Highlands, Snoqualmie Ridge, North Bend (farther and farther away). I'd also suggest getting a short lease (6 mo) down that corridor and then going from there. You'll know exactly what you want after exploring for 6 months. I don't know anyone crazy enough to choose GRANITE FALLS as a good place to live that's COMMUTABLE to Harborview. Are you certifiably insane? 1.5 hours each way?!?! You mean in the BEST conditions (like August sunshine days when everyone's on vacation). Imagine a 2.5 hours in a convergence zone rain/wind storm at 5 pm in November. Uhm, each way. Just don't do it - and definitely don't START that way.

Seriously THANK YOU whoever submitted High Ice! Can you believe that this stupid horrible disaster movie might have been the inspiration to get into climbing? 10 years old is when I saw this and I had no idea climbing could be so Awesome!

This will be my third year at Ouray and I've sorta gone every which way to get there... I'll be heading to the festival this year and staying late for more Ice. Anyhoo, I'm sort of obsessed with Ouray - till I go visit Hyalite so I've got lots of input: Seattle -> Salt Lake -> Grand Junction -> Drive to Ouray. So I went this way the first year because I hastily scheduled my visit there. This wasn't HORRIBLE, but it did take a whole day to get there - and the car rental (I rented a 4x4) was $400. So, it turned out pretty expensive. Seattle -> Denver -> Montrose -> Shuttle This is the best way, IMHO if you don't need a car at all. Usually, this will involve United Airlines for the cheapest price and the most available flights. BEST SHUTTLE: http://www.tellurideexpress.com/ These are cheap and will drop & pickup anywhere. All the other options I found too expensive. You could probably even get the driver to stop at a store in Montrose or Ridgway to do some cheaper grocery shopping. Ouray is an easy town (think Leavenworth) to walk around in so unless you're deciding to go somewhere else, you should be able to get to everything on foot - including the climbing. For my first two stays, I stayed at the Chalet Inn. There's lots of options in Ouray for stay - watch out for the festival, things fill up - and various prices. This year I'm staying in a condo for 10 days - with a kitchen. BIGGEST ADVICE: Join the Park ($35). You get so many discounts for being a member, this is a no brainer. If you mix a park membership with lodging discounts, this can save you a ton. My hotel price at Chalet was $55/night. Finally, here's my list of favorite haunts in town: - O'Brien's Pub, great food/beer - Ouray Brewery, great food/beer - Back Street Bistro (home of San Juan Mt. Guides) - Great breakfast/coffee - Buen Tiempo Mexican - great mexican food - Mouse's Chocolate - the only great place for dessert Best Outdoor Services: - Ouray Mountain Sports (ouraysports.com) - San Juan Mountain Guides (www.ourayclimbing.com) - Ouray Ice Park (ourayicepark.com) Best climbing outside the park, but close to town: - Camp Bird Road (http://www.summitpost.org/ouray-colorado-camp-bird-road/168218) Lots of multi-pitch routes WI4-5, various mixed, easy approach (needs a 4x4 though) Let me know if you have any more questions about Ouray - I'll be there Jan 4-14. Cale

Hmmm, this is very much like my description of January.

This is the best thread on the site right now! Lots of good info.

Dane's blog can be a big help to considering what to do: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/soft-shoe-shuffle.html Considering that Dane won't climb on them anymore, I might not allow my wife to climb on them at Ouray. This is sad, because I don't really want to get rid of them - but it's a scary enough thing to not have workable crampons and go ice climbing where a real injury can ensue. Flat glacier travel? I'd probably be ok. Don't want to see the frontpoints come off.

On a similar topic - I'm considering purchasing a Boulderboard and adding my own holds - including a few ice holdz. Anyone have any experience with a Boulderboard? http://www.brewersledge.com/products/boulderboard

I'm still on the fence regarding SG Bellevue. While I think its cool (and open and such), it's hard to have it feel like home - isn't that sad? VW Redmond still feels a bit like home. Might just keep my VW Redmond membership and get a punch card for SG. Haven't decided. All the things Crack said I agree with. I haven't tried that crazy perfect hands crack.

Hey, I went with Dane's suggestion on the Baruntse (he likes the liner) and I've been nothing but happy with them. The Baruntse boots are fantastic! I'm about to push them hard in Ouray so I'll let you know how it goes.

I can't say enough about my Rambo 4's. I climbed ice on them last year and they made me very confident - way better than non-ice focused Sabretooths I used the year before. Excellent crampons. Steep price ($235 just about everywhere). You should check out Dane's site... he does a good job of reviewing crampon tech: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08/crampon-durability-stainless-or.html http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08/more-crampon-talk.html http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08/new-petzl-lynx-crampon.html

Why isn't there a "Peasant 4" or a "Troll 3"?

Only thing I don't like about the Mammut packs... they seem extra heavy - granted, they are very durable, but heavy.

Well, thanks! Very nice videos - inspiring to us amateurs!

Hey Aaron, nice videos. Do you use the GoPro by chance to do helmet cam ice climbing? Just curious - trying to figure out the best mounting for capturing a route from POV. And where'd you get the fancy billed climbing helmet?! Thanks! :-) Cale

Hey, Anyone from our neck of the woods thinking about heading to the festival? My wife and I are heading down there and maybe we could meet up and climb or even just have a beer! Cale

Maybe we can get Kevino to update ICE conditions on his Alpental thread?!?! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1042618/2

Hey! Thanks whoever posted Will Gadd's article. GREAT STUFF. :-) Gonna add these easy exercises to my rock climbing to prep for Ouray.

I'm sure they are out there... Actually, I believe Dane worked out at Gravity Jane's Crossfit for prepping for alpine climbing/ice climbing. I can tell you this, the one expedition I went on to Ecuador - out of the 12 clients on the trip the crossfit guy was easily the most fit and most capable (could have outrun the guides easily).

Cilogear 40B is very nice. Small enough and strippable for a day outing and large enough for a couple days IMHO.

You rock! Can't wait to hear when the ice comes in. You gonna take pix when it does?!

Hey Dane! Just read the article on Komo. So sorry to hear about your cancer. You're a fighter - I know you'll overcome! Cale Since many of us know Dane from here, I thought it'd be nice to show our support for him. He's helped me a great deal in gearing up for climbing, choosing gear, general advice and I'm sure others here have been helped by him. Anyhoo, I thought it'd be nice to show support. http://www.komonews.com/news/health/132764463.html

This would be easier to answer if you'd attended the mounties car camping seminar. I think they also have a 8 hour clinic on proper use of a bic lighter.