CaleHoopes

Well then, I'm probably on my way since I went through a boot fitter (I met Zach and he had me see Rick) and I can likely write off those hot spots to a bad fit. Good to know that there really isn't "break in" on those. I actually didn't think through my comment there

Earlier on this thread I asked about boot opinions. So far so interesting. I bought a pair of Baruntse boots. Size 42. Then did 16.5 hours of snowshoeing, bushwhacking, creek crossings, etc. with no fitting and the stock footbeds. All was not right with the world. I didn't get a blister but got many hot spots (probably just not broken in). However, my biggest problem was that the boot was pressing in on my 5th metatarsal on both feet. Ugh. Therefore, I've purchased a pair of 42.5's and took them to Rick @ Sturtevants. The first thing he did was look at my feet in the boot without the liners. He took the boots back and made them WIDER! So, that was huge. Then custom footbeds and heat molded everything. The whole thing took 45 minutes and I definitely could tell the difference when he had me walk the boots for 10 minutes around the store. I'm very happy with the custom fitting at the moment and they will get a big test in the mountains this weekend. Anyway, I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the help Dane!

I agree with Gene... what KIND of climbing?!@?! I suggest: 1) Get a copy of Freedom of the Hills (descriptions on all types - gear lists and SKILLS you need) 2) Take a course, class, etc. OR start with a guided climb or guided climbs 3) RENT BEFORE YOU BUY 4) Realize that SKILLS are more important than GEAR SELECTION (yes, that from a gear hoarder like me...)

The Bushwhacker Climbing Club is opening up registration for the Backcountry Scramble Course which we put on every year. We're really starting to get some momentum in the club and would like to have you join us to get some scrambling experience and skills. The Backcountry Scramble Course offers in-depth training in wilderness navigation, unroped travel through moderately exposed areas, ice axe skills, and techniques for travel in adverse weather conditions. We will practice and climb classic Cascades scrambling routes. An overnight outing in snow country teaches snow camping techniques and provides the chance to reach deeper into the mountains. NOTE: The biggest difference between this course and our glacier skills course is that there are no glaciers involved. The makeup of the course is Lectures on Thursday nights in June, a day outing for navigation skills, a day outing of snow skills and scrambling, an overnight outing involving a fantastic scramble in the Cascades! Lectures will be held in Issaquah on Thursday Nights in June. The course is a fantastic and inexpensive way to get some great outdoor travel skills and feel comfortable scrambling peaks in the Cascades. The club offers other endeavors for after graduation: Leadership, Advanced Crevasse Rescue, Snow Shelter, Climbing, Outings all over the cascades and monthly social gatherings. Come join us! The registration process is by application and all applications will be reviewed through now and April 15 with an awarding of a spot sometime before May 1st. More details and the application can be found here: Backcountry Scrambling Course Also, if you want direct details or have questions, you can email me at caledh@gmail.com. I'd be happy to answer any questions you have about the Bushwhacker's or the course. APPLICATIONS MUST BE SUBMITTED BY April 15th to bwcc_information@bushwhackerclimbingclub.org. Thanks! Cale

Seriously. WTF is the blog updates. I miss Mike.

Damn awesome! Seriously?! March 23? Why do people keep telling me the ice here sucks? NICE WORK!

Dane... I sent some money to your pay pal. :-) Thanks man!

Like to be below 150

Yeah... just saying you're going to "Camp Muir" says nothing about going past. If you were just going to Muir you wouldn't need any "glacier gear". And actually, depending on the weather, you might not need crampons or an axe. I've been to Muir many a time without putting on crampons or taking my axe out.

When are you coming home? I'd be totally into those if you picked em up. I'm definitely good for the money...

Hey, I have a pair of Reactor Ice Tools. I love them (even though they are heavy) because I got them on clearance at Pro Mountain for a whole $199 (yep - 2 tools). So, I've been using em for 2 season and generally happy (they'll need sharpening for next year). However, I'm about to do something multi-pitch and I normally climb leashless (they are leashless tools after all). So, what about "tethers" or "umbilical" style leashes for not dropping tools on multipitch stuff? I'm considering either: 1 Spinner leash ($50 - a single two leash system with one loop for girth hitchin) or 2 Slinger leashes (Cheaper at 2x$19.95 - seperate leashes) In order to prevent droppage of the tools during a long route. Thoughts? Flames? Spray? GO!

Dane, thank you for your EXCELLENT EXCELLENT reviews. I ended up purchasing a pair of Baruntse's based on these comments and your blog reviews. I think this might be the best choice for someone who's going to do a lot of mountaineering with a bit of alpine ice/water ice thrown in. Really looking forward to trying these out in Ouray too. And for me, it's not a big change - I did most of my days in Ouray on Koflach Degre's. I'm really looking forward to getting em and fitting them up. I also learned that the return policy at backcountry.com basically MATCHES REI's (return if not 100% satisfied). Therefore, I picked a size (1/2 size up from my street shoe) and I'll start with that. Also, nice blog on the heat molding. However, I'm gonna have to see how the boots fit without them since I only went a half size up. Oh well, if I have to go back to get a bigger size, that should be no big deal. Thanks for the recommendations.

Yeah, the ice is going away. Every year, Pro Mountain Guides out of North Bend put on an ice clinic up at Snoqualmie Pass somewheres... That clinic usually is only a couple days. I took the clinic this year and we got a great day of ice in February inbounds at Alpental. It was WI climbing... not glacier/alpine ice. Might I suggest the Alpine Ice Climbing course with AAI ( http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/AlpineIce ). I've often wanted to take this class and might get a chance next year or the year after.... Anyhow, This course looks fantastic and runs May - September so you could still get it in this year. It's all Alpine Ice on Mt. Baker, but it looks like a great course and will learn ya the techniques you want. Not real expensive for a 6 day course either. Anyway, just an idea for you. You are right to get interested - ice is so fun. Also, Marmot is having an ice climbing night in Bellevue on 3/30 - you might want to check that out. Finally, I wouldn't worry about screws until you start leading - and without technique, I'd hold off on that.

Care to mention WHICH store matched?

Thanks for the replies! Maybe I'll check out the Spantik's then - even though they are pricey. Anyone had a good experience in the Spantik's in AK on Denali?

Hey gene & matt, what about multi-day trips with the nepal evo's... What's the drying out experience been like?

DUDE! ANDROID! WE WANTS AN ANDROID VERSION Thank you, the management.

Yeah, I'm curious too. I like to go to various gyms after work but can't always find a partner. I usually get out at around 3:30 and will go to any of VW Magnolia, Stone Gardens or VW Redmond (I live in Sammamish but work in downtown Seattle)... Also, I'm about at the 5.9 to 5.10- range at the moment, but am really trying to improve. I need to challenge myself more - and I really want to take the lead class (probably at Stone Gardens but maybe at VW).

I got out in Alpental for some phat ice. Very nice toproping...

Hey all, the application process for the Bushwhacker Glacier Climbing Course closes March 1st... get your application in if you want to take the course. :-)

FOLKS! IF INTERESTED, GET YOUR APPLICATIONS IN BEFORE MARCH 1ST. The Bushwhacker Climbing Club is opening up registration for the Basic Glacier Climbing Course which we put on every year. We're really starting to get some momentum in the club and would like to have you join us to get some basic glacier travel skills. The course includes group dynamics, gear selection, self-arrest and self-belay, running belay training, backcountry navigation (heavy emphasis on route finding), trip planning, snow camping skills, team arrest training and practice, crevasse rescue practice and a 4-day climb of Mt. Baker (the Squak Glacier route). The makeup of the course is Lectures on Tuesday nights in May - June, a day outing for group skills, a day outing of self-arrest and navigation, an overnight snow camping and team-arrest outing (with anchors clinic and crevasse rescue introduction), and a 4-day crevasse rescue/summit climb of Mt. Baker. Lectures will be held at BELLEVUE COLLEGE on Tuesday Nights in May and June. The course is a fantastic and inexpensive way to get some great outdoor travel skills and feel comfortable on glaciers. The club offers other endeavors for after graduation: Leadership, Advanced Crevasse Rescue, Snow Shelter, Scrambling, Outings all over the cascades and monthly social gatherings. Come join us! The registration process is by application and all applications will be reviewed through now and the end of the month with an awarding of a spot sometime in mid March. More details and the application can be found here: Bushwhacker Glacier Course Also, if you want direct details or have questions, you can email me at caledh@gmail.com. I'd be happy to answer any questions you have about the Bushwhacker's or the course. APPLICATIONS MUST BE SUBMITTED BY MARCH 1st to bwcc_information@bushwhackerclimbingclub.org. Thanks! Cale

Nice work Woodsman! Look forward to you getting out to the cascades and gettin on some ice (after you come back from Ohio!)

I second genepires. That axe will hold you just fine if you have the right technique. However, it's a catch 22, because a good self arrest is attempting to put you into a three point stop with the slope (pick, two feet) - not just a pick into the snow/ice. So, a couple hundred times of falling in different ways with a good self arrest will really help you. Although, if you wanna learn some more about mountaineering you can take a course such as the: Bushwhacker Climbing Club Basic Glacier Skills Course Email me at caledh@gmail.com or PM me here if you want more info. Signups are happening soon.

Yeah, I'm not super experienced, but I agree with genepires. I think you probably aren't making your placements HIGH enough. It's really easy to pop out placements when your arms aren't locked off if they aren't planted very deep. And just cause I'm commenting doesn't mean I have it all dialed in. Down in Ouray I found that I'd get really lazy and not stretch my placements high enough. By the way, that shaking may not be fear - you burn your arms a ton by not placing high enough. Anyhoo, thanks for asking the question. I'm thinking that before next year I might want to get stuff sharpened. If you come back to Seattle before next year, I think Martin Volken does sharpening too.

Folks, exactly what I was looking for. Those Millet boots are a few years old and don't seem to cut it for me - so no returns going on there. I had one pair of La Sportiva Trango S Evo's and they definitely didn't wear well - they kinda fell apart so I returned em which gave me about a $300 credit. Dane, I definitely have wondered about the "feet swell" thing. I really haven't noticed much in the way of swelling in regards to my experiences at higher altitudes. My boots didn't feel confined at 19k in ecuador and I've never felt confined on Rainier (which isn't that high). Additionally, I didn't feel that bad with boots of my size above Ouray (around 10k). Based on comments above, I think I'll look at the Nepal Evo's or the Scarpa Mont Blanc's at REI. It's like Purchase to Keep or Return (like Rent to Own). I will likely start with 41.5 euro and try that fit and go from there. These boots sound like the perfect technical boots for vertical ice to alpine glacier climbing. I think the Millet's might be too flexible for comfortable vertical ice and that's why I'm turning my ankle alot. With the stiff ankle of these two boots, I'll probably be a lot happier on the ice and they should be sufficent for the snow on Rainier. I'm really just trying to get a good boot option that will get me up the Turtle on Rainier but also up the ice chute on the Kautz - and will get me good props in Ouray. I will pay attention to fit for sure. I've been really comfortable with plastics, but have had trouble with leathers - so this is my chance to find some workable leathers (note, its really pretty stupid to try to run up Tiger in super stiff leathers laced tight - I know that now) Thanks for all the advice! Dane, your blog is spectacular - I read it all the time and its been great to hear your opinions on various gear. Thanks for supply a n00b with information without heavy spray!