CaleHoopes

Really warning about worn biners and the sharp edges that can cut a rope, right? I think it's such a good idea to inspect anything you clip into. However, I'm a very young leader... so I supposed it depends on how "stressed" you are when you're clipping....

If you're having an argument about the weight with yourself and are ok with a little heavier and want something awesome, the new Petzl Nao has won all the awards in the last year. Pricey, but supposed to kick some serious ass. 6.5 oz and supposed to be able to climb 5.12c. REI Product Page

I burned through the LS rubber that came on my Mythos during 6 months of climbing IN THE GYM. Opened up a nice hole in the toe of both shoes with a bunch of poor climbing technique on my part. Fixed my technique. Went to Cascade Cobbler and resoled with 4.2mm Stealth Onyxx. They've held up for most of the year so far.

Ivan, you probably don't know it... but your trip reports are almost as good as The Angry Hiker from nwhikers.net. You could use with a little more craptastic drawings though. That would add to the ambiance of the suckage.

Wayne, I'm feeling this too. I'm only 42. I still feel like a full on beginner in all of these sports. I go to Denali... my body get's it's ass kicked. I still hurt tons, and climb Rainier like it's just a day hike. Then a day of ice climbing and I wake up in pain. Another day of rock climbing (very low grades) and I get up in the morning and feel like I could make it to my crossfit class. I don't know what to focus on because if I really want to alpine climb I feel like I need to focus on everything. I've never pulled a 12 (never climbed above 5.9 outdoors). Maybe someday.

Hey tvashtarkatena: Cheyne Stokes syndrome, for example. This is when you hyperventalate, then don't take a breath for 30 seconds to a minute. It's not dangerous (your lungs easily hold several minutes worth of oxygen), but it's quite strange to be happily sitting there for so long without the urge to take a breath. Thanks for describing this. This was the ONLY thing I experienced on Denali. It was more like 20 seconds for me, but incredibly unnerving and kept me from sleeping (what the hell is going on!??!) Also, one of the things that worked for me? Daily Gingko Biloba (360mg) and 2 200mg Ibuprofen. That made a big impact.

What it helped ME with was understanding what my body does at high altitudes. So, yes, I didn't have any extra bonus from doing an Ecuador trip years before. However, I've so dialed how my body handles AMS and altitude in general that I had NO ISSUES on Denali at all by just following my good habits. Something about being at the altitude (or near it) helps in the future trips.

Another good practice is climbing in Ecuador. All the peaks are good experience and get you great Altitude. I know that my susceptibility to AMS went way down after a trip to Quito, Cayambe and Cotopaxi. A 14 day trip with IMG was the right way to go and was a fairly cushy expedition (great food, great shopping, hot springs and cushy mountain huts).

I'm a proud owner of the La Sportiva Baruntse boots. They are COMPOSITES. As are the Phantom & Spantik. I've loved the Baruntse simply because I could get them fitted by a boot fitter. However, the trick for me was getting a boot that could go to Denali but climb Ice. The Baruntse's do this - however, I have to really cinch them to make this work. And after two seasons, the upper part of the boot has lost enough stiffness that at times my ankle rolls trying to plant my crampons. I'm gonna end up at Ouray in something more sensitive, lighter and less warm (probably the Batura's). Good luck! And look at http://coldthistle.blogspot.com - Dane has great advice regarding boots.

LOL. I gave my guide recommendations on your other thread. LOL

I agree with Gene regarding the denali prep. You should definitely be able to do a prep course and Denali in the same year. Like he said, it's mostly gonna be skills and some climbing, but nowhere near the amount of work that Denali is. You should be able to do them in the same year if you're in shape. The 3 Rainier guide companies all do some kind of Denali Prep in the spring. I don't have any Alpine Ascents experience, but I believe Gene if he says its a good plan. I only mentioned Mountain Trip because of their visibility on the mountain and the way they usher folks through their trips. This of course is all based on my single experience this year. I was independent on the mountain so it was nice to see the guided groups from the outside. I would say that there was ONE major guide service I was extremely unimpressed with on Denali. You might be able to figure it out, but if not, PM me and I'll give you my opinion.

Call me, maybe.

No problem, Rafael. It was my first time out there last weekend and my partner and I put up our first leads of anything! Wasn't super risky or hard, but it was good to get practice and "feel" the sharp end for the first time. Enjoy!

After being on the mountain, I was impressed with Mountain Trip. I was not guided by them, but they were obviously the most organized up there. I've heard good things about AMS as well. Other companies such as Northwest Mountain School run their trips through guide services up there. However, John Race is a good guy, he wouldn't be a bad person to go on an expedition with.

Yes. I will tell you from just coming back. Drive to the Heliotrope trailhead (standard Baker north side climb). Then take the trail about 2.5 miles to where it splits -> one side goes to the Hogsback camp and the other trail, called the Glacier Overview Trail, descends and meanders to the Harrison Camp which is just above the glacial moraine. This camp is at 4800 ft and has a exposed sit toilet (ROCK ON). Anyhow, you then have a little scramble down a trail to reach the moraine. You'll have to navigate the moraine to get onto the lower glacier and then hike up the ice to get to the more substantial ice seracs and such. Here's a good set of links: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/979060/Re_Mt_Baker_Coleman_Glacier_Se http://books.google.com/books?id=2Jf8X-26pjMC&pg=PA48&lpg=PA48&dq=Mt.+baker+harrison+camp&source=bl&ots=JZJp52gAoA&sig=19jk-qoVV02tUDqc0OMc-2hug6k&hl=en&sa=X&ei=UZN1UP-KO6fxiwLDrICQCA&ved=0CF8Q6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=Mt.%20baker%20harrison%20camp&f=false The turns CAN be kinda tricky to get there. Just be sure that when you make the turn you'll descend around a little ridge down into a pretty well flowing stream (can be a spicy crossing in the morning as the rocks ice up). If you found the stream in about .1 miles, then you're on the right trail. The trail is probably heading in a bit of a northeast direction. Good luck! Maybe someone here has a bit of a GPS route to get there.

Scared Silly is right. I got SPANKED by Denali. I took too much crap. The weather was fine, but I was ruined after day one. I did get to 16,500. I would say I have all the technical skills - I just should have thought a lot more about how to make the trip lighter. Strategy on carries is very important. Being sick the week before did not help. I actually injured myself carrying too much crap.

Interesting list. Here's the best advice I have. Find someone who wants to do this with you. Even on guided climbs, it's an actual advantage to bring along a climbing partner who knows you well and you know well. You'd be surprised. Depending on what you're doing, different guide services do different things better. Adams doesn't need a guide at all. Do keep in mind that with the DC under your belt, the climbing on Denali won't be TOO much harder to be honest. More importantly is your ability to ENDURE Denali. And until you go, you won't know.

You have to wait for a sale to get it pre-filled with Miller Lite. And since when did this site promote Miller Lite over the climbers beer: PBR?

Sorry, for bein snarky. Just wondered if you knew where to get it new. :-) I just got a copy and am headed out there next week now that I got my new rope.

So, like, it's available like everywhere? You're in Renton? Try the REI in Southcenter?

I can't second this enough. I'm a convert to CiloGear after seeing how modular and easy it is to work with these packs. I've just about replaced all my packs with CiloGear packs now... a few stragglers left, but it's good stuff. Additionally, there's a bunch of ways to make em lighter. I bought their air-pump suspension pad. 3 oz replaces 1lb of suspension and it isn't horrible.

RafalA... let me know if you need me to order you something... I can help you out - as long as you show me Canmore if I come climbing up there ;-)

Just a bit of advice.... (I've done a ton of research too here)... GET BOOTS FROM SOMEWHERE WITH AN UNLIMITED RETURN POLICY. That usually means backcountry.com. Yep, they rock. I know you said you ordered, but the coolest thing about backcountry and ice boots is that their return policy makes it so you can try a bunch. Also, I can't underestimate the use of the FESTIVALS. Hyalite and Ouray festivals should have demo boots from Sportiva & Scarpa with occasional stragglers like Asolo. I've been intrigued by the Salewa boots too. I ended up with Baruntse and the heal lift thing usually has to do most with lacing. I intend on trying Batura's in Ouray this year and may check out the Phantom Guide or something similar. I will be demo'ing a ton of boots at Ouray. I find this is one of the hardest categories of gear. And yes, Dane's site rocks for this category.

You mean the 'X' isn't a memorial?

So true: "The best way to learn the most as a student is to STFU, listen, then ask questions relating to the material being presented, not test whether or not your instructor is worthy of your hyper-valuable time." I totally believe this - I never approach a student as his question is stupid or anything... also I never approach an instructor as if he owes me anything. I want to glean as much knowledge as possible. If I learned something a different way, I really usually want to know why the instructors way might be better/worse/etc. That way later on I can make a judgment on what is subjective and what is more absolute.