CaleHoopes

Seriously THANK YOU whoever submitted High Ice! Can you believe that this stupid horrible disaster movie might have been the inspiration to get into climbing? 10 years old is when I saw this and I had no idea climbing could be so Awesome!

This will be my third year at Ouray and I've sorta gone every which way to get there... I'll be heading to the festival this year and staying late for more Ice. Anyhoo, I'm sort of obsessed with Ouray - till I go visit Hyalite so I've got lots of input: Seattle -> Salt Lake -> Grand Junction -> Drive to Ouray. So I went this way the first year because I hastily scheduled my visit there. This wasn't HORRIBLE, but it did take a whole day to get there - and the car rental (I rented a 4x4) was $400. So, it turned out pretty expensive. Seattle -> Denver -> Montrose -> Shuttle This is the best way, IMHO if you don't need a car at all. Usually, this will involve United Airlines for the cheapest price and the most available flights. BEST SHUTTLE: http://www.tellurideexpress.com/ These are cheap and will drop & pickup anywhere. All the other options I found too expensive. You could probably even get the driver to stop at a store in Montrose or Ridgway to do some cheaper grocery shopping. Ouray is an easy town (think Leavenworth) to walk around in so unless you're deciding to go somewhere else, you should be able to get to everything on foot - including the climbing. For my first two stays, I stayed at the Chalet Inn. There's lots of options in Ouray for stay - watch out for the festival, things fill up - and various prices. This year I'm staying in a condo for 10 days - with a kitchen. BIGGEST ADVICE: Join the Park ($35). You get so many discounts for being a member, this is a no brainer. If you mix a park membership with lodging discounts, this can save you a ton. My hotel price at Chalet was $55/night. Finally, here's my list of favorite haunts in town: - O'Brien's Pub, great food/beer - Ouray Brewery, great food/beer - Back Street Bistro (home of San Juan Mt. Guides) - Great breakfast/coffee - Buen Tiempo Mexican - great mexican food - Mouse's Chocolate - the only great place for dessert Best Outdoor Services: - Ouray Mountain Sports (ouraysports.com) - San Juan Mountain Guides (www.ourayclimbing.com) - Ouray Ice Park (ourayicepark.com) Best climbing outside the park, but close to town: - Camp Bird Road (http://www.summitpost.org/ouray-colorado-camp-bird-road/168218) Lots of multi-pitch routes WI4-5, various mixed, easy approach (needs a 4x4 though) Let me know if you have any more questions about Ouray - I'll be there Jan 4-14. Cale

Hmmm, this is very much like my description of January.

This is the best thread on the site right now! Lots of good info.

Dane's blog can be a big help to considering what to do: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/soft-shoe-shuffle.html Considering that Dane won't climb on them anymore, I might not allow my wife to climb on them at Ouray. This is sad, because I don't really want to get rid of them - but it's a scary enough thing to not have workable crampons and go ice climbing where a real injury can ensue. Flat glacier travel? I'd probably be ok. Don't want to see the frontpoints come off.

On a similar topic - I'm considering purchasing a Boulderboard and adding my own holds - including a few ice holdz. Anyone have any experience with a Boulderboard? http://www.brewersledge.com/products/boulderboard

I'm still on the fence regarding SG Bellevue. While I think its cool (and open and such), it's hard to have it feel like home - isn't that sad? VW Redmond still feels a bit like home. Might just keep my VW Redmond membership and get a punch card for SG. Haven't decided. All the things Crack said I agree with. I haven't tried that crazy perfect hands crack.

Hey, I went with Dane's suggestion on the Baruntse (he likes the liner) and I've been nothing but happy with them. The Baruntse boots are fantastic! I'm about to push them hard in Ouray so I'll let you know how it goes.

I can't say enough about my Rambo 4's. I climbed ice on them last year and they made me very confident - way better than non-ice focused Sabretooths I used the year before. Excellent crampons. Steep price ($235 just about everywhere). You should check out Dane's site... he does a good job of reviewing crampon tech: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08/crampon-durability-stainless-or.html http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08/more-crampon-talk.html http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08/new-petzl-lynx-crampon.html

Why isn't there a "Peasant 4" or a "Troll 3"?

Only thing I don't like about the Mammut packs... they seem extra heavy - granted, they are very durable, but heavy.

Well, thanks! Very nice videos - inspiring to us amateurs!

Hey Aaron, nice videos. Do you use the GoPro by chance to do helmet cam ice climbing? Just curious - trying to figure out the best mounting for capturing a route from POV. And where'd you get the fancy billed climbing helmet?! Thanks! :-) Cale

Hey, Anyone from our neck of the woods thinking about heading to the festival? My wife and I are heading down there and maybe we could meet up and climb or even just have a beer! Cale

Maybe we can get Kevino to update ICE conditions on his Alpental thread?!?! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1042618/2

Hey! Thanks whoever posted Will Gadd's article. GREAT STUFF. :-) Gonna add these easy exercises to my rock climbing to prep for Ouray.

I'm sure they are out there... Actually, I believe Dane worked out at Gravity Jane's Crossfit for prepping for alpine climbing/ice climbing. I can tell you this, the one expedition I went on to Ecuador - out of the 12 clients on the trip the crossfit guy was easily the most fit and most capable (could have outrun the guides easily).

Cilogear 40B is very nice. Small enough and strippable for a day outing and large enough for a couple days IMHO.

You rock! Can't wait to hear when the ice comes in. You gonna take pix when it does?!

Hey Dane! Just read the article on Komo. So sorry to hear about your cancer. You're a fighter - I know you'll overcome! Cale Since many of us know Dane from here, I thought it'd be nice to show our support for him. He's helped me a great deal in gearing up for climbing, choosing gear, general advice and I'm sure others here have been helped by him. Anyhoo, I thought it'd be nice to show support. http://www.komonews.com/news/health/132764463.html

This would be easier to answer if you'd attended the mounties car camping seminar. I think they also have a 8 hour clinic on proper use of a bic lighter.

The best description I found about it: To clip with a leashless tool, just hook the tool across your chest and clip. (See Photo 8-15) Some climbers put Velcro on their shoulders and tools to make it less likely they’ll drop their tools, but if you put the tool across your chest instead of just hanging it down from your shoulder, you’ll find that it rarely or never falls off. Gadd, Will; Roger Chayer (2009-11-05). Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) (Kindle Locations 2612-2616). Mountaineers Books. Kindle Edition. Here's Photo 8-15:

I purchased a pair of Baruntse that I intend to use on Denali based on many of Dane's recommendations. I used them a bit in the spring and then IN THE SUMMER on Rainier... I would have thought they'd be way too much in the summer, but I was never cold and the boots never got too wet - meaning the liners were basically dry when i pulled them out. Looking forward to wearing them on Denali. Gonna use 40 below overboots however.

Correction: Supposed to be La Nina this year - so expect lots of wetter snow.

I think you want to think about layering in different categories. I have a windstopper soft shell in my pack for dealing with wind. And for insulation I have a Mont-Bell ultralight down layer that I can stuff under or over. It's a whole 12 ounces and has a hood. If you believe you need windstopper, than get the lightest one/least insulated one and take another lightweight layer for insulation. I usually don't carry a lot of fleece anymore. My 2 cents.