CaleHoopes

I'm putting this in the Ice Climbing forum (probably belongs in Gear Critic, but whatever...) So, I've recently spent 3 days at Ouray. I have a pair of Millet Rock & Ice boots that have been giving me a problem and I have a few questions. I have small feet (8.5 US mens or 41.5). The boots I have are 9.5 (a full size bigger). However, as soon as I started climbing in these at Ouray I was having problems. They are a leather/composite single boot with a full shank. The first problem I encountered is this... with Grivel Rambo 4's on the approach hike (about a mile) I kept turning my ankle while I walked. This sucked. But worse yet, when I started climbing, my boots were just too loose. By the end of the day, I couldn't even keep a purchase on my last route out. I felt ok, in that I got 6 top-outs in, but the last route was teh suck. I quickly ended up a Ouray Mountain Sports looking for a pair of 8.5's that fit. I got a pair of used Koflach Degre boots for $50 and they fit fine. The next two days of ice climbing were bliss in that the boots were stiff and I could control them. However, I'm worried about using these on high altitude alpine glacier mixed with ice/rock scrambling - because if my feet swell, then I could end up with a cold injury. So, here's the question. Do I try to find a boot that flexes enough for a glacier high altitude route but has precision enough for rock & ice? At my shoe size should I worry about the swelling at high altitude enough that I should lose a ton of control on the ice? Also, I'm looking to fill this void NOT with a double plastic like the Degre, but something leather. P.S. I'm looking at purchasing a pair of Nepal Evo GTX's to solve this... but I'm still confused about how to get it fit to solve my dilemma. Thanks, your local n00b ice climber. Also, any advice you have DANE if you read this, let me know. I'm really just getting started on Ice but want to get my boots to the point where I can take them to Ouray and do Liberty Ridge & Kautz without much todo.

Ahhh. Gotcha... Ohio. Well, I hope you get some experience there... sounds like you at least have some places to boulder ice . Well, good luck with the cramponing. I know that my confidence has gone way up with this last years trips.

I'm definitely no expert as I have a total of 5 days on WI. However, the first 2 days were last year and the last 3 days were a few weeks ago. Ouray has done wonders for my technique for sure. Last year, I topped out on 3 total 30m routes in the ice park. This year, I topped out on 14 of 17 attemps on all different routes from 25m to 30m. This is all top-roping. A few of these attempts were outside the park. Anyhow, what I find is that the park really helps me work on the skillz. The big change for me? (you won't like this). Climbing gym. I diligently did 1 strength training and 1 2-4 hour session of top roping in the climbing gym for about 2-3 months and my performance improved so much that I'm stoked for next year (and any time in between that I can get on the ice). I can place screws but nowhere ready for leading routes this year (next year I bet I will finally lead a route). Anyhow, that improvement was about training (yes, I know). I have ok tools and ok equipment - but I got a lot of climbing in and now know pretty comfortably where my strengths and weaknesses are on the ice. Where are you located? Where are you bouldering ice? I'd love to get some practice too... I'm scheduled to go check out the ice with Martin Volken out of north bend up at Alpental, but it keeps getting rescheduled because there aint no ice. So, there's the advice. The only other cramponing practice I could suggest? GLACIERS. Yep, you could toprope a crevasse or even get up on Rainier and find some good steep slopes. Not the same, but might help your technique. Anyhoo... I'm not an expert and still just learning the sport, but I feel your pain. Where's the ice?!?!?!? Good luck on your cramponing practice.

I will climb mount hood attached to a 6mm rope with a quickdraw and not wear a helmet. My GPS will help.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE! Trip report + pictures! I'm considering this very soon so I'd love to see/hear what conditions were like.

I'm travelling to Ecuador in January with IMG. They directed me toward CSA Travel Insurance. http://www.csatravelpro.com/ Their "Custom Luxe" plan covers Mountain Climbing. Additionally, you can consider joining American Alpine Club and getting their Rescue insurance. Anyway, I feel covered enough at the moment.

Actually, I felt like I was reading my own post here. I did the exact same thing above. I had to ride them and ride them. They did finally send the tent - but not the FREE ground cover they promised. It was a good deal but it took 4 months. They kept giving me runaround. They shouldn't advertise prices and shipping if they can't deliver. They have a funny attitude but it doesn't make up for not delivering products in a timely manner. I will no longer shop there.

Mike! YOU ROCK FAR TOO MUCH! This is exactly the kind of trip report needed when there's an area that has become so remote from the storms. My friend Richard and I really want to do this and you've convinced me that I'm right.... it will be our toughest climb of the season simply because of the crappy approach. I guessed about 13 miles is right. Well, glad you made it. Will definitely allow more time for the messy trail. I'm thinking that we try to get up to the road a little earlier than you folks did and then allow the 10 hours to stretch out. Maybe on a Friday. Anyway, thanks so much for your awesome report. Great pictures too... you've given us hope!

STELLAR ADVICE folks. I think over time I should be able to afford two ropes so I'll probably start with an 8.5mm. I was looking at http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductD...HP_CLIMBING_TOC Which is 60m x 8.5mm. How are Mammut ropes? Good stuff? Anyway, it will be a long while before I was leading on a rock pitch anyway. I'm still a gym jockey... Thanks guys! You ROCK!

Ok, about to buy my first rope. I plan on doing mostly glacier travel with someday doing some sort of simple single-pitch outdoor rock. I'm thinking of TWO ropes... 8.5mm for glacier and 10-11mm for rock. Or should I just get one 10-11mm and use for both? Thoughts? Please no flame... I'm just getting started after all. Thanks!

UPDATE: The Mazamas inform me that the Thermarest was on a small scramble at the end of the south spur before you go down into the cirque snowfields on your way to the round the mountain trail. The little orange bag was on a short traverse near the end of the spur to get down on the snowfield. If anyone saw it let me know. It's sad to lose such a fine piece of equipment.

UPDATE: The Mazamas inform me that the Thermarest was on a small scramble at the end of the south spur before you go down into the cirque snowfields on your way to the round the mountain trail. The little orange bag was on a short traverse near the end of the spur to get down on the snowfield. If anyone saw it let me know. It's sad to lose such a fine piece of equipment.

Hey all! I lost a brand new Thermarest ProLite 4 Regular on the way down to the Cold Springs Campground somewhere between the Lunch Counter and just below the South Spur around 7000 ft. It was in an orange stuff sack and folded in half (so it was a SMALL stuff sack). I had only used it once and I wondered if some trusting honest soul had found it and would want to get it back to its owner. It's a shame to lose something after a one-time use. Anyway, if anyone has found it, please email me at caledh@gmail.com or respond to this post with a way to get ahold of you. Thanks in advance!

Hey all! I lost a brand new Thermarest ProLite 4 Regular on the way down to the Cold Springs Campground somewhere between the Lunch Counter and just below the South Spur around 7000 ft. It was in an orange stuff sack and folded in half (so it was a SMALL stuff sack). I had only used it once and I wondered if some trusting honest soul had found it and would want to get it back to its owner. It's a shame to lose something after a one-time use. Anyway, if anyone has found it, please email me at caledh@gmail.com or respond to this post with a way to get ahold of you. Thanks in advance!

Bigtree! Great pictures! I hope you had a blast on your climb. We are excited to go on July 7-9 and judging from the heat in Seattle, I think the road will be totally clear by then. Those are great pix though! Nice map.

Thanks for the replies! We've opened up two dates to try for the summit... July 7-9 & July 27-29 depending on Weather, etc. Bigtree, I'd love to hear how your summit attempt went. Thanks guys!

My friend and I are planning a south summit attempt on June 9-11. Please, if you go even for a day hike from the south direction, I'd love any sort of trip report about the road, etc. Thanks in advance!