CaleHoopes

Yeah, only concern I'd have with the firstlight would be it's ability to stay strong buried under snow and handle heavy winds since the poles are definitely thinner.

I'll be grabbing new pix from my friend Peter... but until then, here's a trip report from someone hiking the Burroughs and you can see the middle to upper part of the route in picture 39. Looks like after you traverse over to the Winthrop there's a little jog through some breakup and then a direct line up the glacier before switchbacking some snow bridges towards the shrund. Does look like the shrund has a hefty bridge over it currently - so probably no traverse over to the crater rim, just direct and then over. I'll find out from my friend Peter if he has anymore. http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8000109&highlight=&sid=41367231ae80c3dfdac01ebf800be451

Got a friend who went up this last weekend. I'll see if I can drum up some pix/beta from him.

Worked great for 1 person. For 2 people, no mas. Still dig a boot well and you could potentially cook there. As far as NOT cooking in there, the tent for 1 person is more than big enough for gear. Think about using pack as part of your sleeping kit - as an enhancement to your mattresses and then it takes it out of your way (and provides an extra R layer). So, this system works great for me. I have a half length Ensolite pad, a 3/4 length Neo Air & I throw my pack under the feet - works great and the whole sleeping system without the pack & sleeping bag ends up 17 oz. My point is: pack doesn't need to go in the vestibule - the tent is big enough to support all your gear as long as you go light and not nuts. The tent does a great job with condensation as far as I can tell. I had a good winter camping experience with it. NOTE: If you're really gonna hit the high winds, you want to ADD guy lines and probably also add some anchors to the 4 corners too.

I thought it looked pretty fishy for the Gap. Thanks for posting an awesome pic of the gap. I'm headed up with a group tomorrow. So, I really appreciate.

Hey, there's a picture just after your comment about "we made it to muir in 4.5 hours".... Is that picture from Muir looking across at Cathedral Gap? Am I really seeing that the Gap is still a lot of snow? Or are my eyes deceiving me?

Hmmm... I'd go with the half size larger. You can fill the boot with a little extra sock for the vertical ice (I agree, you want good tight performance for ice). Then you can use the boots on Rainier without the toe injury. I've gotten to the point where I'm gonna quit trying to marry the two sports as much - yes there is "approach" but my alpine boots will be a good mix of tight and a little flexible.

Actually, us Bushwhackers did a couple classes up at Paradise.... we found a GREAT PLACE right up at Alta Vista. Seriously, less than a half mile from the parking lot at Paradise and we had some great conditions. This was such a great place. There was a lot of area there - just watch out, RMI, AAI & IMG use that area for all sorts of climb school stuff.... so you'll have to choose a spot - get there early and it will go great.

That makes total sense! Thanks for a great report. My friend and I are probably going to try a guided climb up the Ridge next year. Your report is excellent. If we were more experienced, I think we'd check it out.

@Zoran - yeah, probably too small - very light though. Thanks for posting it, I had no idea Grivel even made carabiners.

Shouldn't all lists of steps to do something end with: 5. Drink beer ????

Buckaroo, nice comparison. Thanks everyone for the hints. Should make a difference.

Very nice work! Nice trip report! ++ for your partner's lead up ice that he hadn't done before at 13k.

Hey folks, After a smattering of pack weight related injuries from Denali, I'm cutting down my glacier rack greatly for grade 1 climbs. Therefore, I'm looking for suggestions for lightweight, large, lockers. Something with a gate clearance above 20mm & lightweight (60-80g). Seems like the contenders really are the Wild Country Helix, Petzl Attache 3D, etc. Thoughts? Cale

Yeah, I wasn't very specific about Mark, but he's awesome. I've spent a bunch of time with him and can vouch for him technically and personally. He will steer you toward whatever goal. He's had two first ascents in the Alaska Range including a peak he named with his partner Graham Zimmerman. Mark is a rock star and an IFMGA guide.

Mark Allen: http://alpinelines.blogspot.com

LOL. Just checking. I felt old on Denali and I'm ONLY 41.

Loren, Very nice! Oh, and what is "old"?

Should be comfortable with using crampons & ice axe. Experience snow camping if you haven't had that. Getting onto the spur can be steep and Suksdorf ridge (going up toward the Piker's Peak summit) can be steep - especially if it's frozen.

So, I sat in on one of those timeshares at 14. Didn't even get the free wine they promised. They sat us down for 2 hours and told us it was great real estate that you needed to access through 62 mile dangerous airplane ride and 9 miles of suck walking over dangerous holes. Made Vegas timeshares look downright safe.

Thanks Alasdair for bringing some intelligence to the conversation. I was stuck in the storm at 14 and I don't think I would have been moving then. That was a great deal of snow and wind deposit in a 48 hour period. I was glad that we'd already moved through there twice. However, you look up at that slope, and you don't necessarily think it would slide big like that. I can tell you, we had a fair number of slides at 14 that made you pause a lot. We got one on video that dusted the ranger tents at the end of camp and sent people running. With that being seen, we took an extra rest day at 14 before heading up the fixed lines - just because of instability. Not to mention, there was an avalanche that came across the area BELOW the fixed lines that slightly injured a team of four that required some time in the medi cal tent for them. That storm was significant for sure. And yes, objects in mirror are closer than they appear.

Your name says it all... 25 year old guys poop more than a 24 year old. More stink == more cash to pull it off. $42 would have been too prophetic. $43 is ONE MORE. Like 11. It's ONE MORE.

Yet another two thumbs up for a great job by cascade cobbler.

Very good point DPS. I've seen that same trend on guided climbs on Rainier. I've noticed less of that on international expeditions - but I guess that's because the clients are usually more "dialed" by the time they get out of the country.

If you're gonna spend on the I-Tent, check out the new MH Direkt 2. Awesome for that size and pretty darn bomber. (And 2 lb 8 oz). I'm a fan. Note, most of these tents don't have vestibules... but good stuff. Also, consider the La Sportiva Baruntse's if you want a beefier boot with a heat moldable liner. I've been really happy in mine and have used it anywhere from a sunny Rainier summer climb to a very cold bivy on the muir snowfield. And, definitely get the Prodeal. Why'd you become a guide anyway? DUDE, PRODEALS! LOL. Oh, and clients who just give tips to guides who have poor gear are stupid idiots. Guides do a ton of work and deserve whatever tip you got. End of story. Screw respect - the dude put your tent up and cooked your dinner (not to mention belayed your fat ass up that last slope). He deserves a fricken tip despite the look of his gear. Um kay?