TrogdortheBurninator

I have tried the tennis shoes with strap on crampons thing a few times, and found it incredibly uncomfortable. I ended buying some garmont vetta plus http://www.trailspace.com/gear/garmont/vetta-plus/. They are about 3/4 pound heavier per pair than a midtop soft soled shoe (like the ones Blake posted). They accept semi-auto crampons (saves a bit of weight) and the sole is sufficiently stiff to kick steps while still being ok on rock. The ankle gives a very wide range of motion. Biggest downside is they are ridiculously non-waterproof.

Hi Peter, If Paul had ventured up a route that his partner was uncomfortable with as a roped companion, it probably isnt entirely reasonable to expect the partner to head back up that same route alone. It also needs to be understood that the concept of overdue is highly subjective. Without knowing the timeline, it is hard to speculate specifics, but a few hours late over the course of a climb is not typically a concern. In winter, as nightfall approaches it does become a concern, especially seeing as your brother left behind so much of his gear.

reading comp.... when the road isnt blocked, you dont walk far on the road and you dont deal with the annoyances. I dont think many people enjoy the fumes etc. kicked up by motorbikes and sleds while they are out trying to enjoy the outdoors. At the same time, I suspect the percent of users with access to motorbikes, and a desire to use cascade pass area, is fairly small and overall wont affect most human powered users.

How many mounties/boealps/et al. successful difficult rescues have been carried out over the years where these essential skills have actually been put to the test in a non-trivial manner? Are these trained groups really any less likely to need the help of SAR professionals than their self taught or informally taught cohort.

elevation, length, objective hazard, heavy pack.... even though "only" 5.9, these factors make for a very extreme endeavor. Still, unless it is a rockiesesque sandbag, 5.9 should represent the crux pure rock moves.

5.9

are you sure that isnt 4100m? i.e. the length

more clothes is warmer as long as they are dry. Some people prefer to drape their belay jacket over the top of themselves instead of wearing it, so you compress less of the insulation.

awesome trip!!

check PMs noob

gotta get with the times:

grrrr! good luck getting em back kurt.

way too many knots in the first two. Just wondering, but where did you learn to use a cordalette (honest question, no offense intended)? In #1, middle nut on left might be positioned a bit low. Third anchor looks ok, but it looks like there are some bomber midsize stopper placements there that are likely stronger than the microcams, and would save the micros for another pitch (if this is top of climb, disregard last half of statement).

Nelsons Selected Climbs in the Cascades book lists many of the classics. IMO N. Ridge of Stuart is a must do. There are also many other climbs in the ~5 pitch range that are very good. If they are too short for you, just link up multiple routes in a day (i.e. on S. Face of Prusik, or at Washington Pass).

It is hands down my favorite jacket ever now. I use it pretty extensively ice climbing, alpine climbing and skiing since maybe october. I am very impressed with the warmth for the weight (i think the hood is a big factor here). I used it in february on colchuck with only a light softshell and silkweight shirt, and stayed warm enough for a day trip. I also used it in Cody with temps in the teens, and again stayed warm enough. For shorter ice cragging routes, I still take a heavier Feathered friends volant jacket, but the fraction is basically my go to jacket for everything else.

omgzers teh wearz, teh wearz both lowering off and rapping off have their places. the wear is generally minimal for lowering 1 climber.

If they are climbing on trips, were a group of 12 relies on only one leader (i.e. no way to separate group), they have bigger problems than gear choice.

look at what the top alpinists in the world are using, and many are using lighter weight PS helmets. Clearly there is a compromise between durability and weight, but it is one many have chosen to accept. When I first got my meteor III, I was scared to bring it on anything but solid rock climbs. I soon realized it wasn't nearly as fragile as the weight it implied (even if some avatars could rip it in half with their bare hands), and slowly started bringing it on all rock, alpine, and even ice climbs. I kept thinking I would use my ecrin on ice, but 1/2 the weight is pretty convincing in a pack. Frankly, I havent really thought about grabbing the ecrin since about 2 months after I got the meteor III. I do fully accept that it might accidentally break easier than the ecrin, which might prematurely end a trip, and cost me a few more $$$ when I get back home. Instructor has a right to his own opinion, but he is wrong, and the helmets have required certification.

The one having the most fun of course you should buy my brand new 50m 10.5mm rope http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/58187/Number/782964#Post782964

Just flip it

Feathered friends had some shuksans still for 40% off

http://telemarktalk.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=5 http://www.telemarkski.com/html/landing_page/g3.html

used new metolius yesterday. thought they were pretty nice, and had the bomber metolius feel. I'd definitely consider buying a set when they get them all on the market. I didnt think they had an unfinished feel to them as some here have suggested.

PNXwMeI2iTk

pretty sure he means dual rated half/twins