TrogdortheBurninator

Nelsons Selected Climbs in the Cascades book lists many of the classics. IMO N. Ridge of Stuart is a must do. There are also many other climbs in the ~5 pitch range that are very good. If they are too short for you, just link up multiple routes in a day (i.e. on S. Face of Prusik, or at Washington Pass).

It is hands down my favorite jacket ever now. I use it pretty extensively ice climbing, alpine climbing and skiing since maybe october. I am very impressed with the warmth for the weight (i think the hood is a big factor here). I used it in february on colchuck with only a light softshell and silkweight shirt, and stayed warm enough for a day trip. I also used it in Cody with temps in the teens, and again stayed warm enough. For shorter ice cragging routes, I still take a heavier Feathered friends volant jacket, but the fraction is basically my go to jacket for everything else.

omgzers teh wearz, teh wearz both lowering off and rapping off have their places. the wear is generally minimal for lowering 1 climber.

If they are climbing on trips, were a group of 12 relies on only one leader (i.e. no way to separate group), they have bigger problems than gear choice.

look at what the top alpinists in the world are using, and many are using lighter weight PS helmets. Clearly there is a compromise between durability and weight, but it is one many have chosen to accept. When I first got my meteor III, I was scared to bring it on anything but solid rock climbs. I soon realized it wasn't nearly as fragile as the weight it implied (even if some avatars could rip it in half with their bare hands), and slowly started bringing it on all rock, alpine, and even ice climbs. I kept thinking I would use my ecrin on ice, but 1/2 the weight is pretty convincing in a pack. Frankly, I havent really thought about grabbing the ecrin since about 2 months after I got the meteor III. I do fully accept that it might accidentally break easier than the ecrin, which might prematurely end a trip, and cost me a few more $$$ when I get back home. Instructor has a right to his own opinion, but he is wrong, and the helmets have required certification.

The one having the most fun of course you should buy my brand new 50m 10.5mm rope http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/58187/Number/782964#Post782964

Just flip it

Feathered friends had some shuksans still for 40% off

http://telemarktalk.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=5 http://www.telemarkski.com/html/landing_page/g3.html

bump - updates and price drops

used new metolius yesterday. thought they were pretty nice, and had the bomber metolius feel. I'd definitely consider buying a set when they get them all on the market. I didnt think they had an unfinished feel to them as some here have suggested.

dropped a few prices

PNXwMeI2iTk

pretty sure he means dual rated half/twins

bump - stuff added and selling prices

PMs

I also have an F1 Focus Transceiver - good shape, but older A few 22 cm BD ice screws express and regular versions

Looking for AT setups for my wife and I. We have a bunch of stuff to trade. If you'd rather buy stuff, make offers. If you have AT gear for sale, let me know. I'm probably a size 10.5 boot and wife is women's 9. Moonstone Cassin Ridge -20 deg Bag - 800 fill down. Still has tags. Never compressed. Reg size (specs say to 6'). Perfect bag for denali or himalaya. I received as a gift, but won't use in near future, plus in retrospect I probably needed a long. 3lb 15 oz. (retail $550) now $300 obo Atomic MX7 with BD Riva Z - Tele Skis - 177cm - great shape $85 obo Scarpa T2s - 27.5 I think - I bought em used at 2nd ascent and have put a few more days (<10) on em. Fair shape. $75 obo OR Neoplume Jacket - NEW - Men's L - Black (retail $130) $50 obo these are nice water resistant light weight puffy jackets. can double duty for a shell in light precip and especially in snow. OR Enigma Pants - Worn Once - Women's S - Black - (retail $260) $90 obo nicest women's pants OR makes Ortovox Avalanche Shovel - Very slight bend in shaft, probably straightenable - still works fine $15 obo Tendon 50m Dry Rope - 10.5mm - Brand NEW $80 Tendon 30m Dry Rope - 9.2mm - Brand NEW $60 22 cm Ice Screws - 1 petzl laser sonic ($25), 2 BD turbo express ($25), 1 older BD ($17) OR Deluxe Bivy Sack - Like New - $110 Ortovox F1 Focus Transciever - $75 obo

Hmmm, a one tug communication system sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. I agree with Matt on most of this stuff. I really dont see how double clipping on occasion can be a significantly larger safety risk than climbing on twins. Even twins arent going to have a perfectly equal running distance, so there will still be risk of rope-rope friction. Are there any actual documented cases of a failure from this? In regards to double clipping, I think it is good to think about the reasons for doing it. Both reasons I do it probably dont warrant it, but here they are: Double clipping limits rope stretch in a fall, but might increase force on pro. On bolts, this should be fine, and it might keep you off a ledge. In truth though, just one rope will probably slow down your fall sufficiently that the ledge will be inconsequential anyway. This brings me to my second and more common reason, which is the psychological benefit of looking down and seeing two ropes clipped in between your legs. Sometimes that is all the edge you need to climb without falling. Tips for feeding slack: When feeding slack on easy terrain, just play out both ropes simultaneously, even for clipping. This reduces clustering and means you dont have to do an readjusting (take in one, feed out other). When feeding clipping slack on more difficult terrain (where pro is bomber) feed the clipping rope, while maintaining belay with the non clipping rope. After clipping rope is clipped, pull out a comparable amount of non clipping rope to what you just had. Now, as climber climbs past the pro, you can just bealy both ropes simultaneously again. If you are genunienly worried about the quality of highest pro, and want to minimize the distance one would fall if the top piece blew, then by all means belay both ropes quasi-independently.

The third bolt on sport sickness at X38? ...... Oh wait, the route is only two bolts long.

the 2x4s on ef lexington are cool, and they sure make the first moves into that offwidth more tolerable.

can't you just make it so that the button knows whether or not I wan to see spray. like some sort of mind reading app. I'm pretty sure this technology was all well resolved in Short Circuit II.

i think in practice, differences in amount of rope played out will effectively limit peak impact force to only one of the ropes.

I thought that I read somewhere that the real life gains of impact force with 1/2 ropes are not super dramatic. I am guessing this is because the reduced impact force is also accompanied by reduced total system friction, therefor a higher percentage of the fall force comes on the top piece.

gotta get dolled up for the weekends.