luvshaker

Man, that was super fun to watch! Good tunes too.

What's the story with the paw?

W. Face of the Monkey Face-Smith is a must do for the aspiring big waller. Obviously not 1000'. Haul it, then sleep in the back of the head.

Looks like you need to go get some on a FFA Kirk!! .....I'll belay.

I just completed a perfect drop knee doing that same move in my garage that adam was doing at the comp in the video. That's right, I droped off my non-overhanging wall to my knees. It reminds me of middle school when I Actually belived I could dance like Michael Jackson if I tried hard enough. Oh yea, I tried and tried.

Love that picture.... I climbed that route in May a couple of years back after most of the steep portion had slid. The normal security of a kicked steps was absent for about 1000', just the front points. It was so hard it took some work to just chip out a horizontal foot placement to rest. Probably Zero chance to self arrest a fall under those conditions. But i'm sure pickets would have sufficed if we had brought them.

Twice last year (Mid June, then early July) in that lasting snowpack I did PCT sections that had significant snow. Between 4-6000. Although they were adventures you can forget your 3.5 mph average. As stated, route finding and postholing for sure. I found that often you get caught walking on 40 degree snow that is filling in where the trail is normally "cut out" of the side of the hill. :-(

This entire thing is a sham....it's verticaly biased. It's obvious that no person, male or female, over 5' 2" has a chance at this award. That's why Lynn Hill won it 5 consectutive years in a row. "Greg Child, president of the jury, explained that their decision was made because they felt these climbs truly represented the spirit of alpinism." Greg is seriously like 4' 8" tall and 68lbs. It represents the spirit of anti-neanderthal. Just my two cents.

Little, black case, black camera Lee 541-912-8299

Climber is 30' away from anchor and begins to batman up the rope to get through the crux. He batmans 15' and tries to clip into a draw so the belayer can take up slack. He blows it because he's pumped and lets go-fall factor .5 (a true .5 because it's on an auto block with no extra friction or belayer to absorb energy) Ouch I like the idea of the double ropes and taking up the non-batmaned rope. I will use that.

Good to have a jumar/prusik and a sling or two ready, but many times you can get a second up something beyond their difficulty just by taking up slack and sitting back in to the belay for a little "extra" (possible with an autoblock if the belayer uses tiblock or ropeman). There is also the follower pulling on draws- commonly found at cruxs-and stepping on bolts.

May is THE month to go. If you can find a copy of "Oregon Descents", you will be salivating over all the lines. I'd go in Pole Creek TH and make a base camp somewhere around treeline below the Middle Sister. One line I climbed but never got to ski was the Prouty glaicer headwall. Looks so good! If you have a few days, Jeff pk doesn't even compare for skiing. For the traverse the obvious diro is N. to S. Then you can ski S side middle, S side of South, and W. side of Broken.

Every year it gets a little harder to go pull on the plastic. Must.....stay.....psyched.... What's getting you through the winter??? Moi: Sunshine Dihedral, Smith Black Ice or N. Face of the Grand, (or both, that's a long hike) Winds?? Anything on Devils Tower Then down to Longs Pk for something on the Diamond Salathe on the Captian

I have to admit feeling a little nostalgai reading this thread. Only advice I have is do it when you're young because for most people it don't get any easier. I work 9 months a year in public schools, teach extra classes at the U, coach, side jobs, etc, just to take off summer. Then, its load up and go where ever the wind blows. This year I may even try to rent out the house to cover the mortgage. We'll see. But, I never had to worry about that stuff when I was young. Also, I totally agreed with the "happiness is shared" comment above, however the characters you meet out while traveling and climbing will be unforgetable. Like this dude I met at............

Because one person says "it's not that bad to downclimb the spur" doesn't mean you should gps it and go do it. That route has claimed several lives and it was commonly on the downclimb. It's probably true that for an experienced climber that downclimb, under firm conditions, is no big deal, but for a newer to even moderately experienced climber that route is long, steep, and falls end up on the elliot glacier. With that info you can access your skills, and definately be ready to call an audible on the day of if soft conditions present. Good luck with your outing!

What a stoke! Telemarker, that is impressive. It looks like your buddy is locked in, did you free heal it?

"Not to be a smart ass" To Late.... Check the recent trip report on the west side, they came down the south. Avy danger should be low. Ice pebble dodging-high. Check the wind forecast to see how much ice will be raining down, and to see how cold you will really be. Don't expect to self arrest a fall on the hard pack. Be prepared to dig in and stay put for a while. Oh, and don't forget your IPHONE!

No sarcasm intended....I would like to know the reason(s) people leave draws on a route?

Did anyone get out ON the mountain during the clear weather?

So Gel-US!!! Just plain SWEET!!! Stuck here in Mild the Willamette Valley. Maybe in the next season of life.

Crying Time Again at sunset, T-meadows Future big wall bums

Good advice thus far.... You really can't go wrong at Illumination Saddle. Even if the weather is poor, it's still a very cool place to be. June is the peak season so don't expect solitude. Week days would be ideal, especially from a safety point of view because of the weekend crowds.

That must be in the Res then?

Built this little addition to the wall on Sunday. The top is finger locks, and the bottom is a little rattly on the fingers. I figured the wood would dry out some and shrink, which was good since I could barley get in my knuckles when I first slapped it together. Tips next, then hands......

What direction are you looking??