luvshaker

Justin, Like everyone, glad you made it out safe. I also appreciate your positive attitude about the whole thing. There used to be a time when getting slightly lost was fun and exciting. Guess we're not allowed to do that anymore. When I was climbing pre-GPS I used an altimeter often in storms. There is a formula you can use that takes a little guesswork, but you can get it pretty close with some experience. Try watching what different storms do to pressure around you home, then make the adjustment yourself. The amount an altimeter rises (ft/meters) with dropping pressure is less then you might think (If I tried to tell you the formuls now I'd get it wrong). Search the web, or it might even be mentioned in Freedom of the Hills. I still won't climb with out a altimeter. Lee

I wonder if it was at that last curve about 1/2 mile before the Hoodoo turn. I was coming downhill once behind a truck that was hit by an avalanche at that spot. The snow scooped it up and high centered him in the center of the highway. We could just punch through in up hill lane. SO COOL! Glad that one wasn't much bigger or he would of had a much longer ride.

Photos from the east side show couloirs that are probably over 4000' long. I have always dreamed of sking them. A map I have shows two different "Falls" near the head of Big Indian Gorge. There are also "falls" shown in Little Alvord Cr on the east side. It's gotta be cold there. I would be interested in learning more about an east side approach too. Looks like some dirt roads approach in a short distance, but there is allot of private land in that area, so who knows. Wish it weren't so far away.....Of corse, you're in Bend. Be sure and take pics.

17)... If you Won't climb 5.7

Don't even worry about 242, it's definately not the fastest way in. Look up Pole Creek trailhead on the east side out of the town of Sisters. You should be able to drive to the trailhead. Perhaps post on "oregon" forum to find out more about that. I think there is patchy snow around 5 thousand feet with a small pack above 6000. Upper reaches of the mountains the ridges will be bare with bowls filling in. Crust should be pretty hard on southern exposures after lots of sun the past week and a half.

I agree, clean aid is great for learn about placements, and there is much to learn. When I climb c2/c3 I constantly find my self saying "this piece would never hold a fall" and then trying to remember which piece below me somewhere would hold.

Triassic Sands....Nice!

Easy one, if you've done it.

Thanks for the response. There were plenty of placments on the NF of Monkey that wouldn't hold a short fall from this oversized climber. But, there was usually one or two below that would hold. Sounds like on the E face there can be a few in a row that may blow. That sounds about right for a C2+/C3 climb. Guess I'll have to go and see how scary it is. Ratings are subjective for sure, especailly trying to compare granite and mud. Twice on the N face I hesitated on a great cam hook, because it started to chizzle away at a sufficient nut placement and would have made it worse. Good pics and beta appreciated.

Looking for some beta on clean aiding on the East face of Monkey Face. What is it rated for clean aid for starters? And how is the finish to the top? Can't really trust Watts since he had to go freeing everthing. Also, how does it compare to the North Face of Monkey for aiding? Thanks Lee

Are there any bivy spots for two along the route? And, if the weather was warm and we crossed the snowfield in the afternoon, could we leave the cramps/axe? Thanks-

I did the Hotlum headwall "Coulior" variation a few years ago but after I checked the dates, realized it was mid June. It was one of the few really worth while routes on Shasta. We had three long pitches of around 65 to 70 degree ice that took screws well. If there was still ice there in August it should be really fun.

Check the Gear Review about offset TCU's that I posted a week ago. I really like them for free climbing in the flares. Be sure to enjoy the related video too. Lee

I purchased two Metolios offset cams because a buddy up north said a route he was trying needed them. The route where we used them had two places below crux's where traditional cams looked like a joke when trying to place them. The Metolios offsets were solid. Though we didn't fall on them, you just know, lots of contact. All my other Metolios hold falls and show little abuse from it. This was also around the time when there were recent reports of Aliens blowing up, so I was motivated to see how these things worked. Sent the route, kept the two offsets on my rack for a while and suddenly began finding placements I never looked for because I thought they were bad/flaring. Now I keep all five with me all the time now and place the top three sizes all over the place. Smith cracks eat these things up. Super physched about these cams. Nice job Boys in Bend. http:www.backcountrygear.com

If think bouldering is lame, but love Crack, check out Bacher Cracker V4 (my ars) in camp 4. It's the only boulder prob I've ever felt worthy enough to go back to multiple times. Overhanging hands out of a cave to fingers to slopers to roof. I don't tape, but I do to work on that one.

I know it goes without saying.... But Major PROPS to people who use their own time and money to replace bolts and make climbing safer for everyone.

Leave it, and keep what little history that remains at Smith intact. I was scared to climb KC for a year before I did it, mostly because of the traverse. My first trip up KC I flailed across the traverse placing marginal gear. I went back up to inspect and sucked. I shoved in the right size cam to protect the follower. He fell, the cam held, memories made. Now it's one of my favorite climbs. Or add anchors and see about 20 more TR laps daily. But that's OK since no groups ever seem to gather in that area anyway.

My bud dropped his camera off Horndogger Select. The camera's probably toast, but he would like his memory card. $$ Lee Luvshaker@hotmail.com

Just did Thin Air, then the following two bolted pitches of 10a to the top of Koala. Great link. But I gotta know if anyone else thought the two cruxes (10a they say) on each pitch were anywhere close to reality. Maybe it was just cold.....but I had to pull pretty hard to get through them. Consenus? The Marsoups rock. Delerium Tremens in Jan...COLD! But Gooooood.

Road is gated, not plowed. A chance you can hitch a ride with a snowmobile....lots of those.

AFIVE- Looking smooth on Bent screw. We got on it early this afternoon but we saw you before we went to Crown. Gotta love the one swing placements! The Jewel....FAT! Funny thing, we thought we were going to get slammed by wind on it this morning since we were getting knocked over on the 30 second approach, but the whole climb was in a pocket and virtually free of wind! Man that was good! Thanks to everyone posting beta this week. Nice heal spurs Goeff!

Where did you park for Crown Jewel? The Descent? Thanks

Any one been up there lately? How far can you get, how much snow/clearence? Thanks

A buddy took me there once. It's up out of Oakridge. Typical crappy oregon rock, and it gets no sun so it takes forever to dry out. Lots of veg. No bolts anywhere since it's wilderness.

What is going down there at Lassen? Is the north side any good to ski these days? How is the pack holding? What are conditions? Icy? Suncups? Corn? Is the road open on the North? Much thanks!