luvshaker

I just did my first set of calve raises in preparation.

Way to go! man that brings back the memeories... I think it took me three tries to solo the W. face. One of them I never got on the wall. I loaded up the 60+ pound pack and thought it would be faster to ride my Mt. bike around the southern tip. Unfortunately I forgot my clipstick was sticking out of the top of my haulbag and caught a tree pulling me backwards off my bike to the ground. I duct taped my clipstick to the frame of my bike to finish the ride only to find another party of 4 starting the route.

Chairman Moa's little red book was an easy onsight for the grade at 11a, but for some reason John Gualt line (next to Pack Animal)took me like 5 tries and working out the crux??? Ride the lightning 11b-two moves of freakin hard, and I got a rope burn. Vomit launch seemed pretty hard. I Almost Died....onsightable.

What have been the easiest routes to onsight for the grade, and the hardest route to send for the grade? Any grade, Trad too.

What's worse, vacationers from Iowa to climb on OUR rocks, or moving here from Iowa to climb on OUR rocks? -Raised Corn fed

I was in the ditch last week and got some first hand info from a backcountry ranger. He said this year they are up from 10 to 40 backcountry rangers, and now have 4 "climbing rangers" to help "bridge the gap" between climbers and rangers. Apparently there is something stimulating the NP economy. This lead to some interesting conversation, but in a nutshell they are going to request that wallers do not bivy on the ground at the base of walls-especially El Cap, and that you need to be a pitch up. Half Dome was still fine to base bivy (what we did). Just going off something I read a while back, but the ticket for being in camp 4 and getting caught-$175. and camping somewhere that you would never actually get caught, like leaning tower parking- $90. easy decision for me.

We climbed Cooper spur a couple weeks ago and just hiked the trail at a intentional moderate pace. It took just over an hour to get to Tilly Jane. The trail leaves from the gate blocking the road to Cloud cap, and is very strait forward 2.5 miles. Don't let a little hike stop you from the best alpine setting in oregon. Easy access to Sunshine as well dropping across the Elliot.

You will really not be dissapointed with this trip. Best time of year to be in there. Pole creek is a quick way in, even with the road snowed in a couple miles out. You can make a basecamp below Middle sister at the treeline that can easially access all your climbing. South sister has two options. The NE ridge is prefered, but perhaps a little harder. If it's not what you want, the NW ridge is not much further walk and should be jsut a snow slog.

Flag sits at around 4000 and change. No poison oak, lots of anoying black flys, and lots of snow most winters.

Checat- I'm seeing two issues develop in this forum that it seems your after getting feedback on and I'm wondering if you are hoping for a cresendo toward the second. -A bolt free crag in Oregon, with the possibility of others in the future.....if the topograpghy deems appropriate. -You publishing a guide for this area. You know I respect what you are doing in the first, and the internet may be a good place for that?????? But for the latter, I'm not sure this is your best venue for your cause. Props for the documentation and communication with climbers to get "the history" captured of this place. You know I dug looking through it. But if you are looking for feedback on a guide, you might want to start with the people who climb there regularly. Be patient, keep being the "go to guy" with new stuff, keep on chimneys (all yours), the time will come when everyone is ready. Personally, I don't think the time is now for many reasons, the biggest is that you don't need a guide to climb there, and it fits the no bolts ethic real well. You know already how others feel that don't post here, and I just don't think you build much of a case if "13 people from CC.com agree with me". You got to remember, a bolt free place to climb was someone's pipe dream long before it was yours. Just keep buying them beer, and being the cool dude that you are. It will happen. Gotta respect those who came first. ALmost 4-Going climbing now.... Lee

Good thread, bolting discussions (arguements) are important and relevant. Helps others see where people are coming from. This particular crag.... Hard routes Lots of moss to scrub. Long approach Excellent rock Great pro Plenty of trees on top to TR off Everything about this area is hard, scary, dirty, tiring, painful, long, etc. So, I think it's safe to say that can be pretty low in the fun factor for most people. But, it all comes down to respect. The first caucasion rock climber to discover the place has been clear from the beginning requesting no bolts. Those he has graciously invited (basically everyone he knows) to enjoy, route scrub, and develop, have all shared the same vision for the place. A climber either respects those that came before them or they don't. If they don't they can be sure to upset. I fully believe this place will remain bolt free. Perhaps because some people view it as "the law", but hopefully they will catch the same spirit that is keeping a climbing area very wild. It's also the same attitude where people don't fight over lines or FA's, they inspire each other to have fun and climb hard. Super refreshing.

Bolts=Rock climbings attempt at capitalism.

If you want more of a "mountain to yourself" kind of experience, one of the best descents on Hood is Wy'East. Going from Meadows should be just as fast as timberline. Climbing is kind of dull till the final 1000' along the East ridge. Go early, then wait for the corn.

We climbed Jeff in February one year and it was the best trip I've had on that pile. Considering your average joe would make it a two day trip anyway, skiing/snowshoe the road only adds an hour or two at most. Plus, you won't seen anyone else. Just drive up Pamelia until you hit snow or a down tree and go.

I snowboarded it a few years back. Didn't drop the cliff, though...bad knees. Rapped off the trees. This place has very easy access since the road is plowed, and is my favorite little local alpine crag. When the temps drop a little more there is water ice everywhere in it, since it never sees the sun in the winter. Don't go in it when it's loaded up to slide, there are amazing avalanche piles at the bottom throughout the winter to prove it and there is no where to go. There are other runs/chutes to climbers right that have skiing, ice climbing in the winter. Really neat area. Lee

The snow patch in recent years has really shrunk, and last year was gone by mid August. At least 5 years ago I climbed the route around Sept 1 with no axe or crampons. There was even somewhat of a scramble trail below what existed of the snow patch then. Made for a quick trip with out having to worry about the steep slush.

Tvash you might want to take a stab at this one, seems like you have a bunch of experience in this area.... I know a sign of over training is increased heart rate in the mornings and fatigue in the legs. I have been riding harder all the time, and getting days off to rest (or easy spin). Today on my ride I was pushing hard on timetrial intervals and could hardly pass my AT (170) even the goal was to "breakthrough", this was with legs burning and what felt like close to all out effort. This happened on every intervals. Finally, feeling frusterated, I max sprinted on the last one and was still 10 beats below a normal sprint max heart rate. I also double checked pulse by hand/time to verify monitor's acuracy. Basically --significant decreased in heartrate at roughly the same output which normally produces higher heart rates. So, over training, or ready to push harder? Any thoughts? Thanks

Great feedback...Thank you. When I have a cold, I don't feel a bit like pulling hard bouldering, but I can stand doing an endurance workout on the wall. Likewise, I feel fine when my heart rate in zone 3 or lower cycling, zone 4/5, body hurts bad during excercise and the next day. I have tried to use "sick days" to do long distance slow pace rides, or just rest. ****You also need to ask: why are you getting sick? Are you underweight? Are you constantly overtraining? Do you neglect your sleep schedule? Are you always cold? Diet etc.... Yes, loosing weight. Yes, trying to get in shape. Yes, little kids. Yes, first time ever. Also including a difficult work schedule, diet is good. Guess it's pretty obvious why. It's funny how someone can get away with this lifestyle in the summer and not get sick, but the winter will get you. Thanks again, Lee

Does anyone have knowledge on how to train through, not train, or train around your average cold? I have been getting bamboozeled by colds this year and they are killing me to try and work out through, or killing me NOT to work out through. How about what you take to fight it????

Nice pics. I forgot how fun that route was. There were some deep and frozen boot tracks when I did it and it made all the difference. Without um, I would have had the rope out for sure since I had a first timer along. As for the screw...hard to believe you would use it. But hey, it's small, it makes a cool noise when it "klanks" against other gear on your rack, and you paid 52 bucks for it, so throw it in.

Mad Props!!! Thanks for the report. -Inspired

Bury you screw all the way. Bring two if need be. I'm fumbling to remember where I saw one of the best articles in a while on this stuff recently. "How to Ice climb" by Chris Luebben, was pretty sweet on describing different fall senerios (pp. 144-148) Just looking again, I'm remembering that a long screw is not always your friend (insert joke here). Lots of cool pics of 22cm screws bent to heck, and the poundage of falls listed below the pics. Good news is that often the carabiners broke first, which means that there where some pretty big fall factors going on.

Prouty glacier has kind of a wanna be headwall that if very skiable. When I was there in may a few years back climbing up, there was only one bershrund to cross that I kept thinking would be sweet to huck over on a ski descent.

I think I saw Dan Osmond try something like that once.

Where are the middle two photos of?