luvshaker

I climbed a pitch at Red Rocks (Eagle's dare I think) where the whole route except one pitch was pretty solid. For the loose pitch-overhanging 10c- I was SO glad they punched in a bunch of bolts, since falling from snapping holds can lead to some "gravity aided circus stunts".

TIMELINE of Events related to: The Columns, The Luvshaker, Kirkw and Shapp (in that order) 15 million years ago-The plateau came before the mountains, built by flood basalt eruptions that culminated in the Miocene. Blah, Blah, blah, molten lava, cooling, awesome cracks. 19-something. Skinner Butte quary un-earthed these cool cracks. 1960-70's Pin pounding-army boot climbers get all the classic FA's. They manufacture the greatest route of ALL TIME. SATISFACTION!!!! 1971-Wayne Arrington showed us how to climb cracks using a huge beard. 1980 Alan Watts showed everyone how to climb everything, and invited his friend Lynn Hill to climb "Limpy". 1980's-Mullets and lycra. 1984-Someone climbed the columns naked. Lester and Soule watched. Unfortunately for them it's not Lynn Hill. 1999-Luvshaker attemps the columns and can't even make it to the top. 2009 Luvshaker bums a belay form KirkW and thinks....cool guy. I should go climbing with him sometime. 2009-Shapp moves the top of Limpy with a weighted cam. 2009-Around the same year Luvshaker jams Limpy with his left index finger and inadvertinly crushes the head small bat hiding inside the crack. 2009 Top 4 feet of Limpy fall get pushed off. 2010 Rockfall to the right of Limpy during winter months 2011 Luvshaker virtually meets Shapp and thinks.....cool guy. I should go boating with him sometime. 2011 KirkW gives Limpy a "go". What's left of it appears solid. 2012 Man in skid-loader drinks three "5 hour energy drinks" and excavates the area. Needing another hour to finish his shift, he has some fun, and really gets things level.

Hey Shapp, I don't think it was just you. I was hand jamming the top of it and got the block to shift and moan toward last. That was shortly before the top few feet of Limpy took the ride I never want to take.....to the base of the columns. Yea, I'd love to hear the logic behind the excavation?? Better crash pad spots?

State Farm here. I'm surprise I'm the first to spray about my "Elite Preferred" status. (It was my good blood) I had been climbing for 15 years when I got it. I specifically asked "if I die climbing, does my wife get paid?" Answer, as long as you not doing anything stupid and adjuster wouldn't raise any stink. So, no free soloing I guess. Also I went with state farm because they have by far the best "pay out" on claims. Worth extra coin as far as i'm concerened.

This year it looks like there will be quite a bit of snow in June. Are you planning to bivy on the way in? If you are bivying for fun-cool, but I don't think it is very common on that route since it's one of the easiest mountains in the cascades to climb in a day. Positives to snow-always a flat spot available with a little work-and NO mosquitoes, as they follow the snow line as it melts that time of year.

Finding the right diameter of rope has been key for me when using the gri-gri on solos. To fat, and it's almost as bad as manipulating a clove hitch. To skinny, and you might have some air time.

I think ya bra posted his digits....ya? Get ya red rocks on.

Kunza....ryhms with "Junza" Don't fortget Chinard's crack, and you must do Spiderman.

http://www.integraldesigns.com/product_detail.cfm?id=683 2011. New in bag. Half off retail. I have two of these personally and they are top notch, light, any season bivys. Txt: 541-912-Eight Two 99 Eugene, OR

You may have mentioned it, but where is that pitch?

That's the one. Except I did all those same tricks in my cat boat:-) Tributary to the Siuslaw.

Stats from last winters Crater Lake loop. Average Temp-34 degrees Rainfall-over 2.5 inches in the final 36 hours Snow pack melt- 2 feet First day was nice, then the wind blew in a wallop of a storm. We were really wishing we went around clockwise when the SE wind was hitting us the last day. Winter favorites -Anything on Diamond Peak -Anywhere on Hood -Rafting Lake creek at 11+' -x-country skiing looking for ice climbs -backcountry skiing at Tombstone pass

What are some of your best (or worst) winter adventures you have had? Where are some of your favorite winter back-country destinations in Oregon?

Kirk-Dub! Man what a perfect time if year to write a sweet TR! There is nothing happening except maybe some Bend Bouldering, and you can't even find any info in THAT!!! But seriously, You guys definately have the stones leading the first two pitches of that beautiful petrified mud. "Finding nothing and desperately seeking something solid, I suffer a short relapse of Catholicism and start praying that my right foot doesn’t blow. My prayers go unanswered and I too disengage from the monument and find myself hanging on the rope nearly upside down a couple of feet below the last step of my still clipped off aider." Whatever doesn't kill you makes you......???

BTW My 4 year old was looking over my shoulder the other day and saw Skykilo's avitar and said "look dad, unicorns, cute!" Hilarious.

While I enjoy an onsight attempt for other reasons, like others have stated, I really enjoy working a route down to each move and making it feel easy when it is totally at my limit. Talk about tingly! I think a feeling of mastery in anything is pretty rare event, so it's pretty cool when it all comes together.

Great shots! I have actually climbed that route on a LONG early spring day. We came from Timberline. The only spot where we varied was where your dotted line disappears, we traversed left about 100' and split those rocks. Where your line goes there was about 30' of vertical ice that looked fun. We had to rappel down to the Sandy Glacier, and the only other spot of technical stuff came when we were leaving the glacier where your line cuts back left, otherwise a route that definitely gets you to a less traveled part of the mountain.

Dang! Thanks for posting. Check the drool on the "balls of steel" direct line!

Powder-How far did you get into the NF gully? Did you get a good look at the big bergie? In a recent picture someone posted it looked to be maybe be the crux of the climb.

I have noticed the brand of rope, and age of the rope makes a significant difference in friction on the rock....also, double ropes=double the rock friction. Right on revolvers! Used those on aid pitches with traverses on them. They do work great.

Interesting thread..... Things I have read so for make sense in my brain for the most part. An element I don't think that has been brought up yet is that of the friction reducing the overall speed generated in an accelerating fall. Sean wrote some good stuff to consider about friction, and stated... "Once set in motion, energy dissipation through friction between the rope and protection placements, if the route does not wander or zig-zag, is likely to be small in comparison to the energy dissipated through the belay and the rope deformation as the fall is arrested." I have FELT THIS. When I have fallen without much friction in the system, I have fallen FAST, and I knew it (after it was over). I have also had several falls where I was way out, with lots of drag (friction) and the falls felt like they were in SLOW MOTION. It's still all about the dissipation of energy, but shouldn't a slower fall with a lower maximum speed, caused by friction, spread out the energy on several pieces and release less energy on the top piece of gear?? Thoughts?? Come to think of it...I like SLOOOOOOOW falls better anyway. Bring on the drag! I

Sweet!!!!! You left me hanging..... did you send the A5? What I liked best was no fist pumping boulder topouts, no flexing or screaming, no dry humping the rock on a FA. Just strait up hard climbing.

I can confirm no axe/pons needed for Assgourd. But if it froze overnight the two little snow patches would be more interesting to cross. Up in the high lakes area is about 75% snow, and my sneakers didn't keep out the moisture so well....

To bad it was at the Smith bivy...... someone probably turned that booty into a bunch of clip sticks.

The rest areas on I-5 in that part of the state are no less than superb. The rouge river rest area is gooooood. Sprinklers come on early at that on, but you shouldn't get to wet in ya rig. A little further down the road is the Klamath river rest stop. good too.