
luvshaker
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Everything posted by luvshaker
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Hey Atreides, you should tell us what it was you said to get banned now that everyone is friends again.
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If you didn't go climbing, daydream about climbing, shop for climbing gear, talk about climbing, read about climbing, and spend 6 hours a week at your a stinky climbing gym (Alpine climbers-hiking up a hill in the rain with a weighted backpack and IPOD blasting) ....what would you do with yourself?
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This guide would get you going. http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Western-Oregon-Willamette/dp/1879415437/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1289325670&sr=8-1 Corvallis has lots of climbers to check in with. Smith becomes about the only consistant option this time of year. Callahans outside of Roseburg can have good winter climbing. When things dry out, there are lots of options. Trad too.
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Throwing cig butts out a car window Dumping out garbage on a logging road Taking a dump and not burrying it with the TP Leaving quickdraws hanging on a wall when you go home
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That shape reminds me of my......................... home climbing gym. Except mines much smaller.
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Looks like the snow has "arrived"!!! Could be a good fall on the North Face with some clear weather.
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For November to be good climb you need a weather window-as stated-but you also need a couple of storms to create the beginnings of a snowpack. Then, you need it to consolidate enough so it doesn't release. With out snow it will become more technical (less chance for a boot track) with more chance for rockfall. But, that may be what you are looking for? I've had good trips around the last week of November when it all came together. There can be plenty of snow by then. Good luck.
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Rock-Yes, cracked one Alpine-Dumb question Cycling-Shattered one Kayaking-Duh Sex-clipped and married Basejumping-the point?
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The last one is definately "Johney" from the Karate Kid "Strick First Strike Hard, No Mercy SIR!!!!"
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[TR] Mt Hood - North Face Gully 7/3/2010
luvshaker replied to ScaredSilly's topic in Oregon Cascades
PEE EYE EM PEE! -
I would be all over it, especially if it's short term gig. So much undiscovered country (at least from a climbers perspective, cheep rent, and a place to quiet the mind for sure. Just drive strait to Leslie Gulch.....Smith Rock of SE Oregon.
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I have never been involved in an Epic, at least according to my defination of Epic. I hope I never Epic. I've whipped, been bloody, had toes go numb for weeks, spent an unplanned night on a 1 ft ledge, crashed, and shot a charging bear with a pistol. None of these epic. Today a 4th grade kid said to me "you should have seen how big the tacos were today, it was Epic". I was puzzled. As well, no dis on other cool trip reports recently....but Epics? No overnight? no loss of body part? certainty of death? dimentia? no starvation? Stitches from you buddy? Crawl out? And while I'm on the topic, a Whipper is not taking a lead fall with the bolt at your feet.
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That second vid with the sun shining in was sweet! Kinda made me want to sport climb.
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I had isolated experience decending in winter a couple of years ago that left me really sick. The next day I woke up and my eyes were basically crusted shut from mucus they were producing. Totally wierd. Could mandatory MLU money pay for a chopper to plug up that hole?
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Sunshine route might have what you are looking for. Away from the crowds and lots of options.
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Smith & Wesson Airlight .38 special-snub nose Amazing little piece of titanium.
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It's got to be from the childhood game 20 questions. "Is it bigger then a breadbox?" It's also ironic that the most fearsome componant of rock climbing (rockfall) also provides one of the most satisfying sensations in life.....purposly dislogding a big block 350 sized rock down a cliff. Ahhhhhhhhh. Even the smell is good.
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I was thinking of the rabbit ears when I saw that picture.... but I did hike into the base of the twin pictures years back. There was a bolt like that was missing hangers that looked like it could be fun. Never heard of "F7"
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Several spankings at Smith NW regular route on Half Dome IAD Bacher Cracker Exum Direct FA of 11+ gear route Pooper Spur Built a home gym More spankings at Smith Watched the same stupid climbing videos over and over and over....
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I did a little research and it seems like the best thing the Spot has going for what I might need is the "tracking" feature for an extra 49.99 a year. I love climbing solo, but.... If I'm dead, or hurt and away from my pack, it might be tough to push the 911 button. All someone would have to do is follow my "tracks" in the computer (updated every 10 minutes) and there I would be. Plus, when my kids are teenagers I could turn it on and put it in the trunk of their car to find out where the current party is, then show up in my sasquach outfit.
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News station reports mountain climbing accident. News station runs poll if climbing should be allowed. Funwreckers have there way, no more accidents. News station begins reporting on fisherman drowning in their wadders. News station runs poll........
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My friend Pete has written articles for Climbing and Rock and Ice. Entertaining stuff. Though you might enjoy his "Dirtbag Climber" blogs. http://www.peterbrownhoffmeister.com/
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Practice self arrest. Not practicing is about as foolish as a base jumper not practicing pulling his cord. Self arrest does work on steep/icy conditions but only if you do it mass rapido. You will only do it fast if your practice it. Also, most of the times I have used it is when I'm in wet snow when the crampons ball up and footing gives out, so it pays to practice in those conditions too....the steeper the better. And if you are the most experienced one on a rope team, all the more reason to be good at self arrest. Not falling is nice fuzzy thought, I hope that gives you great comfort. Lee