luvshaker

Be ready for a road trip. Another half hour south on I5 from Roseburg. Turn left, and keep going and going and going. I think it was 3 hours from Eugene, at least. Super fun place though, and worth a visit.

Base of Super Slab. Red Lee 541-912-829nine

Duuuuuuuuuude, Crazy. Man, Glad you are OK. Glad you posted. It's important for people to be aware of how poor the rock is around here. Really, just thankful you will be back out there again.

Chicks at Moolack? It is usually a meat market. Hmmmmmmm. Thanks for the report. You may be implying this already, but climbers need to stay more then one route away from the birdies. (you are talking Para-Grins yes?) Just to throw out a number here, a distance of over 200yds away, maybe more, should give them enough space. Climb closer if you enjoy talons coming strait at you at 100mph, and off course risking mommy abandoning her little chirpers.

Looking to climb the N. Ridge this summer. Becky guide says the North Buttress is used as a descent. Has anyone done this and can give some info. # of Raps? Double ropes? Stay away?? Thanks

The river has been running around 150 cfs, so you should be fine in several places to cross. I tested out an old 2x4 between the rocks on a Jan day and took a nice swim in the Crooked. I climbed the rest of the day in my spare poly tights and friends wool jacket. Felt like 90's again.

Great Links with your TR and Route beta! I'm interested to know how you were able to draw your route on your 3d Hood pictures. What program do you use for that?

As stated....Day trips with lots of rappelling and swimming, go to Zion. You can get updated forecasts from the ranger. Longer, more secluded trips think about the Escalante River area. Incredible place. Should be able to find guides for both areas. Search "Little Death Hollow" for fun. Definatly a DIY

If it means anything, we are not "camping" in the shelter, we are camping at large. With a group that size and level of in-experience, the shelter provides some insurance in the event of an emergency. Since it's a winter camping trip-not a "hut" trip, as it appears many enjoy sans winter bivy gear-the small couple person trip might feel very welcome by the swedish bikini team and will find a warm place for them in the shelter. So, see you there Ivan?? Cheers!

I'm with a pretty big group (45 or so) headed to the Fuji Shelter on Friday and Saturday. We will be camping in the area, and likely be exceptionally loud and obnoxis. Of course it's open to anyone so maybe we'll see you up there!

Picked up some AT boots for a song. New liners. Length seems fine based on what folks have told me on how to fit. Width may be to narrow. When I put my foot in the boot without the liner, the widest part of my foot is basically touching the sides of the plastic. A short trip out Saturday and my foot felt like it was being crushed from the sides. Can the "heat fit" to the liners help this? Can you increase the width of a plastic boot? (probably a dumb question) Am I outta luck with these boots? Thanks for any insight

When you pass the Wilderness Boundary sign on the north side of hood on your Snow Mo, you'll be doing a No no. Standard rules for wilderness, even up in the alpine. No wheels, but hooves, paws and huge piles of manure-OK. Sleds-OK.

Very Cool! It looks like all gear?? Nice work. This has been my favorite style of climbing in the last few years... Climbing at my limit. Working routes I can't even come close first try. Fiddling with gear. Often run-out a little. Beat it until I have a good day and send! Good for you. Great feeling!

I know, I know, move it if you must. Does anyone have any experience climbing Mt Olympus this time of year? Any ideas on what to expect? Thanks,

"that would explain the missing nut-sack?" NICE!!!

Climbers in September reported the snow "patch" is melted away for the rest of the summer season. There is no better time of year to solo N. sister via the regular route. I'd consider a light axe for the quick section from the glacier to the S. ridge. But there may be a way around the snow now.

An X on a rock could save a person's life. It should be given a heave when conditions are safe. At least they didn't draw a pictograph. Sheesh.

Yes, carry a GPS on Hood and be skilled at use. Be even BETTER at the use of map and compass. People found their way off the mountain in storms for a hundred years before GPS. Electronic devices can quit working, batteries die, and the military controls the satalites. Enough said.

Orton-I respect you for giving it a try and asking for people to share their opinions of bolting. It's important for someone who develops sport routes to be aware of what other climbers think. Problem is most people won't say much on what they really think because they have been taught that in order to do that you have to bash an individuals effort and/or style. I know that's not what you are after and have legimate questions. I've noticed other climbers will usually respect someone's development if they don't have a f'off-I'm doing it my way-attitude, even if their style is different then the norm. Of course tolerance disappears when a climber pushes the boundaries when considering their environmental impact(s), and jepordizes land use opportunities. I think Plaidman is a perfect example of this (how TO do it). He has chose a style that has some tradition to it, and no doubt some thrill-drilling on lead, while keeping it safe for others to enjoy with plenty of bolts. He even took time to explain his rational on numbers of bolts. I'm sure he realizes that 40 years ago there would have only been 1/4 of the bolts, but nobody climbs those routes! So, I'm guessing that part of his thinking is giving something back for others to enjoy with a well protected route. I don't see anyone critisizing him for having his own style. I personally think it's very cool to have different styles (i.e. bolt spacing) even at the the same crag, even lines right next to each other. Sometimes I just aint in the mood to run it out, so the more bolts the better-no shame in that. But, when I start up a difficult route with less bolts it's game time! I love having to focus on movement, and not rely on grabbing a quickdraw if things don't feel just right. There is a reason I have walked by Dreamin so many times. But when I do that route, it's gonna be WAY sweeter! I don't care where you climb in the world, or grade you climb. More commitment is going to equal a different (I believe richer) experience for most climbers. Those are the routes you want to hear someone talk about around the campfire. Not a sit start V4, or a .12 clip up. I think all styles are relevant and make climbing part of what it is, even the clip ups. 1)Route developer. Which direction do you think consensus is changing? Probably tighter spacing? I have seen both. 2)Ask the developer. If they are dead, ask his friends, if no friends, ask the locals. 3)Only on your route. If you are dead, your friends can do it.

Of course it's Croft, his shirt is off and he "thumbs up"!!!

Crills, you never said what you were climbing..... We climbed Dragontail in a day then camped on the ridge a couple hundred feet below, where we had snow. The ranger said we was cooo camping there. Out of the zone.

So, what was it like?

I've tried many ways of carrying slings and tend to go with the alpine draw. but shoot, try it all, and come to your own conclusions. Here's what I have found. -I have never needed a 48" draw. 20' cordelet's do it all at the belay. 24" do it on lead -you don't need quick draws with alpine draws -most nuts and/or cam extensions only need about 8" to get er done (that's what she said) and minimize rope drag -on the occasion you do need 24" it takes a moment to re-configure, and then just let the floater biner dangle -you ALWAYS need extra biners for stuff in the alpine -wearing slings around your neck will get old in a hurry when removing your pack/shedding clothing -not as clean to pass on to your partner when you switch leads -did I mention anything rubbing on your neck sucks

The late/heavier snowpack this spring is only as good as the temperature, and can actually be worse if it is warm due to snow instability. Regardless of pack, this time of year hood climbers should look for trends in the weather/temps. NOAA and other sources give current and predicted temps at different elevations. So, look for freezing levels to go below 8k or 9k for a day, and climb after that. Overnight lows help, but watching the daily temp highs is probably even more important because it's the "freeze/thaw" that really creates the most hazards from falling rocks.

SWEET!! Glad it went well! any portages? The rapid in the 6th photo looks pretty Gnar. Can't wait to read the full account!