John Frieh

Where are the pics of the wallcreeper Graham?

See you there! First round @ the west rib is on you!

All great suggestions. Add to those the lines on London Tower climbers left of Trailer Park including Cornhole Couloir and you have a great list of objectives. If it was me I would fly into the Ruth camp below Dickey and see what you can snag down there before heading up to the Root and trying Ham and Eggs.

Mixed Climbing by Sean Isaac answers all your questions... great book if you are serious about M climbing

The amount of cardio he's doing makes me feel like going for a run, right now! I had the same thought and swapped a few emails with him about it... Ill fwd them to you. Long story short for his current climbing objective (K2) the "weak link" in his climbing skill set is cardio performance @ altitude and/or performance on a limited calories hence the amount of cardio volume. That said just because Steve (or insert your favorite pro climber) does it doesnt mean you should also... we all have different training backgrounds, strengths and weaknesses and as a result should all follow different training cycles with different emphasis. Figure out what your goals are, where you are at as an athlete (strengths/weaknesses/etc) and then build yourself a program!

Guy and girl from the rado... climbed it 3rd week of April. They had just come out as we got to Talkeetna. Now that you mention it I cant remember if they topped it out or not. Shit: about 90 days to AK!

Gadd recently did a 24 hr. ice session on TR in Ouray, doing 194 laps with about 25,000 ft. of vertical. I would definiely look at his regimen for endurance. Training for the endless ascent: 1/24/10 blog post I felt a lot stronger even after only a couple of months of Crossfit--I think that at my advanced age (42) I had a host of weaknesses in my body's basic function (jumping, squats, presses, etc. etc). Crossfit put the light on those weaknesses, and helped correct them. CF isn't perfect, but it's damn effective for general physical fitness. I have no affiliation with CF.

It varies year to year just like other alpine routes. A few parties reported it as a 4 last year.

Gene: How tall is the ceiling in your garage? What equipment do you have so far? PS: Steve House recently started a training blog that doesnt deal so much with specific exercises as it does program design (at least so far). Worth checking out IMO

Hey Gene: you better specify what type of climbing you are training for or the sport climbers/boulders are going to tell you how much time you are wasting with that circuit stuff

Thanks all! :laf: Busted. Though let the record show I deadlifted 475# @ 184# BW (new PR!) less than 24 hours before his arrival so perhaps Lamaze is the hot new training fitness craze?!?!

Very cool Mike! Great to see people putting their energy in positive outlets I'd encourage you to get in contact with the great people at Climb Max... they along with the Access Fund have organized clean ups at Rocky Butte once a year though usually in the summer time. I bet they'd be willing to send out an announcement for you to their vast email list!

Davidk nailed it: sharp dressed man. ~5 clips to a fixed nut (sketchy) then natural gear (spectres in moss and choss, then stubbies) to the top. The rock climbing is around 10a and the run-out on top feels like m6 or so but I've heard of peeps trying to drytool the whole thing and calling it m7+

If you must limit it to just 10 GP is higher quality (cleaner) and more committing then West Face of Gunsight Main Peak IMO. Gunsight might clean up with more traffic but given in the same amount of time it takes to reach the base you can drive to Squamish and do harder, longer, cleaner routes I dont see that happening.

That cache page unfortunately doesnt show all of the twits... some of the best stuff was futher down. It's a shame it got taken down... some classic stuff Cheers to who ever it was

[video:youtube]

Off the top of my head Scoop CBR Passenger SEWS GITM Stuart I know WA Pass has a few other 11- routes Not really sure what you mean by "top" though...?

Good stuff dude! Thanks for sharing! For vimeo embedding just put the video # in between the tags (in your case 8545475) and that usually works for me... And I have never seen so much ice on the Thrill... not sure if you can claim the M4 part

Sierra Mtn Guides If you're still in town I've got a guidebook you can photocopy

This is just too good not to share :rawk: [video:vimeo]8444961 Nice work dude!

umm, yes, It should happen to you too.... I was placing all right and had to grip the tool with elbow bent. Hanging higher, off the bones/leash would have gone a long way on the steep placements. BTW..... Do the make an Android just for the new Cobras?? Just heckling you because I'm jealous I'm not out there running around with the rest of you Yes they do make an android leash for the new cobras

Those are the best partners to have! I might have to try and steal them away from you Seriously though if you arent sketching/bailing/shaking/crying from time to time chances are you arent trying to push your leading ability... there is a reason I've fallen multiple times on ice (not that I'd starting recommending it) I'm just stoked there are people on cc.com such as yourself who are not only getting out but sharing it with the rest of us. It keeps the stoke alive!

Sounds like some great booty if you ask me. Finders keepers!

Using them is what will make you a badass. Veronika has more ice TRs than just about anyone for this year... see if you can catch her (or at least keep up) and I bet you ice skills get a lot better

Wayne? Pumped on an easy 5? Are you getting old or something dude? :laf: If you're going to use a leash on just one arm or both get the detachable ones. That said I still think with practice and proper pre season training (weighted tool hangs, frenchies on tools, etc etc) no wrist leashes is the way to go assuming alpine/mixed is your overall goal. If you just want to climb pure ice and nothing more leashes might be worth a look. But that said as soon as you start mixing media (rock, snow, ice) the ability to place rock and ice gear quickly and efficiently as well as climb rock with your hands is easier with a leashless setup IMO. Umbicals can be frustrating at first but taking the time to learn how to manage them will ultimately be much less frustrating then a dropped tool on a multipitch or alpine route. I can personally vouch for this one One cautionary note about using a leash on just one arm is I can think of a handful of routes where gear placements (screws or rock gear) were only possible with a particular hand/side of my body. Having one hand leashes could easily screw you on some pitches. And the best way to fight muscle (arm) fatigue is good footwork.