John Frieh
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best of cc.com [TR] Pickets - South to North Ski Traverse 2/17/2010
John Frieh replied to Gaston's topic in North Cascades
Damn. Strong work dudes! -
Thanks all! I think David and Troy are working on editing some helmet cam footage My best guess is (i.e. could be totally wrong) is on the FA it was super fat hence the WI4 rating. I think in normal years and/or early season it is closer to what most would consider a Cody 5. To me it felt like 4/4+ but even then I cant be trusted as I hadnt thrown tools in over 2 months Ill be out there in March... you should come up! Next meeting is first weekend in March... currently looking for carpooling partners! Send me a PM if interested! SICK trip Tim! I want to climb Ovisight SO BAD! Thanks for sharing! I have a new reason not to run off every single weekend
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Trip: Cody - Classics Date: 2/21/2010 Trip Report Summary: 2/18: PDX -> Cody 2/19: Cabin Fever (1p) + Wyoming Wave (4p); 200 meters total 2/20: High On Boulder (2p); 165 meters total 2/21: Mean Green; 300 meters total South Fork Love: Friday: Cabin Fever + Wyoming Wave Cabin Creek Approach Cabin Fever David has THE FEVER! Troy getting properly introduced You know the feeling Wyoming Wave is a 4 pitch route right above Cabin Fever Surf's Up! Pitch 1 of Wyoming Wave The sets keep coming: David on pitch 3 Hanging 10 on pitch 4 Saturday: High on Boulder Yes the wide one. pitch one High... So High. On Boulder Step into the Light Sunday: Mean Green Mean Green: Just right of the sun/shadow line. David rolled p1 and 2 into a 90 meter lead. Did I mention it's his second year of ice climbing? Following pitch 1 As David took 1 and 2 that left me 3 and 4 Pitch 3 Somewhere around pitch 3 we realized why they consider Mean Green "one of the top 10 routes in North America" Pitch 4: How Mean can it be? Cody 4 aka Leavenworth 5+ :laf: Troy following pitch 4 But wait! There's more! 300 meters later Closing Time. Until next time
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But Doug! How are they for sneaking up on baa
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PM Doug Shepherd. He has a pair
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High Resolution Alaska Range Photos for Research
John Frieh replied to jeffpflueger's topic in Climber's Board
Nice pics The spelling should be Mount Dickey not Mount Dicky though. -
Rob: what route and when?
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Which part are you confused about? the computer chip or the feminine place he had it placed? Guys dont get tats on their feet or their lower back, those places are reserved for pillow biters and women I know a Cat 1 bike racer with clipless petal cleats tattooed on the bottom of his feet that has a VO2 max of 68. What's yours jmace?
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Hey Rob: just a thought... whatever system you are considering (white gas, canister, etc etc) you should go snow camping some weekend between now and then and try out your tentative system before you head north... if you already have a few different stoves see how long it takes you to make a gallon on each one. I bet you figure out quickly what works and what sucks
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Unless you have a huge vestibule I think you're going to want a mid in AK if you are staying for more than say 4-5 days. The trick is score a rectangular piece of plywood when you get there... use it to prevent your mid pole from sinking into the snow over time as well as a cooking surface. With this setup you can bring a gas stove (XGK) Even better: score two pieces of plywood! One for the mid pole one as a cooking board Not the best photo but you can see the cooking board and pole board in the pic
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I retract my statement about the dumb tat. A good friend of mine has an even dumber tat. (John you can appreciate this) This guy loves computers so much that he got a Pentium 4 chip tattooed on his foot. (this was back when a P4 CPU was hot shit) :laf: As we've all seen someone will always be willing to tell us something we did is dumb. Would I get the same tat as Rick or your friend Nate? Nope. But that said cheers to them for doing something they wanted to do that didnt affect the rest of us
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I was more referring to the talk tough online act normal in person act (I'm thinking "Pink Flu" would be a good name for it ) but hey I'm a dumb ass according to Pete so what do I know!
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I love how you guys always make it about you. Obviously Rick should have consulted the cc.com brain trust first before getting HIS tattoo to see what you guys think of HIS tattoo KEEP CC.COM PASSIVE AGGRESSIVE!!! (if that's okay with you of course)
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It looks fake IMO but Rick does climb at the PRG so Ill have to make sure and ask him about it next time I see him there
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Sprayer traffic might but with less of the senseless banter you might actually get some climbing related discussion and more lurkers would post and fill the traffic void sprayers may have left. I hope that it is a requirement for the new wiki to edit/report/contribute that one has to use their real name
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Thanks to the efforts and contributions of the SMCC as well as local climbers in WA and MT the road is plowed weekly all the way to the main fork parking lot until April 1st. You could literally drive a golf cart up the road most days
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Note the graphic on the guy's shirt on the right :noway:
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I heard this happy couple met on E harmony and climbed el cap on their first date! Who says you cant find true love on the internet? baa :[]
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No: do they work on Toyotas?
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Bump: Toyota Mechanic recommendation for a Toyota Dolphin in PDX?
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climbing useful exercises for circuit training
John Frieh replied to genepires's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
Gene: as you've likely already noticed everyone seems to have a few favorite circuit exercises that they argue will benefit climbing. I would go as far as to say just about any type of physical exercise is going to do more good then harm for your climbing. As a wise man once said "everything works... nothing works forever" So... search the internet semi regularly and look for new and fun stuff. Dont cherry pick the stuff you are good at avoid the stuff you dislike or worse arent good at. I hate and suck at the Sott's press but I try and do it twice a week for those very exact reasons. A few people that have many exercises you could do with the equipment you listed that I really like for whatever reason include: Steve Maxwell: lots of bodyweight and kb movements to gain from him... many of them on youtube Rob Shaul/Mtn Athlete: Rob didnt invent most of these but he has some classic strongman stuff demonstrated As you noticed other listed some other websites above also... I bet you find at least one or two exercises you like on those sites also. That said the real value of training isnt from the individual exercises you choose... it is how you put them all together in a larger program that truly matters. Example: the deadlift is a truly great lift that benefits multiple muscle groups (some people call it the king lift) but just deadlifting all the time is going to leave holes in other areas of your fitness. What you need to do and likely have already done is identify your training goals and build a program around that. My generic prescription for anyone is as follows: 1) General: Training schedule will depend on your goals. if your goal is to be better at your job your program will look a certain way. If your program is to be a better triathlete and be better at your job then your program will be different. Isolate all of your goals and start there. I generally advise that at most you can truly go hard on only 3 days. By hard I mean really truly hard at maximum intensity. People think they can go hard 5x days a week but perceived exertion is not a good measure of intensity. You may train more than three times a week but the other workouts should be comprised of recovery workouts. A schedule could possibly look like this: Monday: Hard Gym Tuesday: Recovery Wednesday: Hard Gym Thursday: Recovery Friday: Hard Gym Saturday: Recovery Sunday: Rest As for additional work you can always add things to the schedule. If you add to the schedule though be careful to monitor your recovery status. Add low impact movements like rowing and biking. You could also add more running or hiking with load carriage depending on how destructive running and hiking are on your body. If you add endurance work to the mix you may do it on the recovery days depending how destructive the work actually is. For example 90 minutes of easy paced cycling may not be destructive but a 90 minute road race may be. If you want to do two a days that will be acceptable some days as well. If you do this do the endurance work after (later on in the day) after you have done the strength type work in the gym. It will make the endurance work more efficient and will not compromise your strength type work. 2) Do not underestimate the value of recovery. It is the most important aspect of training. Plan your workouts accordingly. Engage in recovery practices on a daily basis including recovery showers, foam roller sessions and recovery walks. Even though you will have to work really fucking hard do not assume that always working harder is the answer. Work smart. 3) Intensity - during your hard days you need to go hard. Floor it. The underlying premise of all of this is that you possess the mental fortitude to push yourself. 4) Diet - sort it out now. You cannot outwork a shitty diet. It needs to be as healthy as possible. 5) Training: for training ideas start looking at other peoples training journals/websites/books. Not knowing your level of fitness it is hard for me to prescribe any specific workouts but single leg strength will definitely be important. Do not just work your strengths. Work your weaknesses as well. Focus on the Power-to-weight ratio. Be as strong as you can in as small of a package as possible. Finally seriously consider seeing a coach to make sure you are doing this stuff correctly. As this stuff is potent the potential for injury exists. Fern lives very close to you and is an awesome coach... consider climbing in Squamish one day and seeing her in the evenings for some form/programming talk. If you can find the time to trek to Portland I would gladly spend a day or so working with you on both movements as well as some programming discussion... in fact bring some friends if you want. Hope this helps! -
Favorite Workout (or climbing) songs
John Frieh replied to Braydon's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
God's Revolver :rawk:
