John Frieh

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsTbas5NgF0

Simply brilliant

I'm putting all my money in aluminum. It's the next gold.

10 31 exchange? ORLY? Capital gains push up contest? The bottom of the housing market is the top of the rental market?

Unless you are going to either ski the gnar or travel great distances most people take whatever they have laying around and slap a pair of bindings that accommodate their climbing boots and call it good. No point in geeking out on approach skis... shit mine almost were destroyed in an avy this year (I took BD cults w/ silvretta 500s FWIW) One guy was cruising up and down the Ruth with a split board this year... not ideal transportation but then again he wasnt there for the touring And Jay Kerr's TRs rock

Selling out is the new keeping it real

Better late than never? Reconnected with Tim this past weekend who Doug and I met during this trip... he passed this pic along. The two dots in the couloir are Doug and I on The Escalator on Mt Johnson:

Also in Alpinist 3

...The Internet poser’s world is hazy: he passes off sporting sub-disciplines for the real thing, hints at things he might do, under-reports the results of things he has done, foregoes events that offer genuine competition, short-strokes reps in the gym, refuses to use objective measuring tools (perhaps to evade the truth), and contrives virtual challenges through which he draws an apparent association with the legitimate event and its participants. This shit makes me sick. It’s common for climbers to embellish or under-report their activities. Guys pull on gear when no one is looking and call it a free ascent. Others traverse around the hard sections and claim to have done the route, or do ice routes in Grade 5 conditions but broadcast their climb as Grade 7 since that’s how hard it was during the first ascent. I once thought that behavior restricted to the sport I lived and loved but attention-whores who spray half-truths and hype to attract an audience are everywhere. I should have grown out of caring about how others behave, especially when it doesn’t affect me. I haven’t. Some days I am petty and when I discover words or actions that diminish the value of a sport or discipline or ideal I care about I get pissed. Today is one of those days. Usually, I don’t care what others do as long as they truthfully say what they do. But insecure people decorate their achievements, “interpreting” the truth to drag it within reach, which devalues the accomplishments of those who respected the truth. The Internet poser polishes his turds to garner approval. Blogs make this more convenient than ever. Anyone can be anything. “Friends” post comments telling the blogger how great he is, which alleviates his need to convince himself. If it’s posted in the “comments” section it must be true... MFT

Muscle ups IMO are more about timing and coordination then raw strength/pulling power. With some practice you'll get it down and then its just another tool in the tool box to supplement your sport specific training... for what it is or isnt worth: # of pullups and ability to do a muscle up dont really correlate... I cant do a one arm pull up (you can Marc) but I can do 5 muscle ups on a bar without coming off. Practicing and/or mastering a muscle up on a set of rings will make the bar one easier. And be careful: I know a few people that developed some elbow issues from doing way too many muscle ups

Did you guys read the article or not? First sentence: No (sponsorship) but bullshit is. If you read it Semple has nothing against sponsorship for those that deserve it... I agree with him... it's very cool to see climbers such as Colin do what they love and are really really good at and thanks to the support of the companies go test their skills. Awesome! It's the bullshit that is a sin. The "last great problem" or "super classic" adjectives that seems to reappear in every other report by certain people... classic by definition suggests it has no peer... i.e. no other climbs are as good. And I cant tell who your comment is directed at Dru but if you're wondering I'm definitely not sponsored by anyone and honestly dont deserve to be... anything I've done is nothing compared to what is going on out there.

Dead on. Fuck the tabloid self promotion hype bullshit: climbing magazine/rock and ice/hot flashes/urban climber/etc etc

Thanks for the updates all Keep them coming!

[video:youtube]

Ha! Good catch dude! New record Now if only I can crack the 30 days of ice barrier...

Trip: Cody - Carter Mtn Date: 10/10/2009 Trip Report: What a difference a year and a "little" snow can make South Fork Love: Knee Deep: Ballz Deep: Bottomless: South Fork first timers find the goods Kevin getting counted in: David: Dull picks are so worth some preseason ice... IMO: Only 3 ascents to date: go get it! If this keeps up Cody could be ridiculous this year... Many thanks to Aaron Mulkey... you sir are the man! Hoping to see you again soon! And in the spirit of the South Fork: RIP Bobby Model Gear Notes: Super Redhawk Starbucks Via Approach Notes: Thanks for nothing Les Schwab

Will Gadd covers how to train up to one in his how to climb ice book.

potrero chico

Ive got a spare pair you can borrow... go raid your couch cushions for spare change

Come on people... 1500' of WI3 to start the season off!

Mulkey climbed curtains last night... looks like most everything else is in too He also ran into a griz on the way out Who's going? I know somebody has a sick day they can burn

Looking for a third available to leave from either PDX tonight and/or Ritzville, WA tomorrow super early (~5 am) for Wyoming. Back late Sunday/early early Monday am. PM for details.

With such good weather you should have no problem onsighting all of those on your to do list

I was talking about cryo and hydro (the upper of the two pics Buckaroo posted) but Id love to get on shreddie too. Let me know when it's in and Ill lead