John Frieh

Good stuff dude! Thanks for sharing! For vimeo embedding just put the video # in between the tags (in your case 8545475) and that usually works for me... And I have never seen so much ice on the Thrill... not sure if you can claim the M4 part

Sierra Mtn Guides If you're still in town I've got a guidebook you can photocopy

This is just too good not to share :rawk: [video:vimeo]8444961 Nice work dude!

umm, yes, It should happen to you too.... I was placing all right and had to grip the tool with elbow bent. Hanging higher, off the bones/leash would have gone a long way on the steep placements. BTW..... Do the make an Android just for the new Cobras?? Just heckling you because I'm jealous I'm not out there running around with the rest of you Yes they do make an android leash for the new cobras

Those are the best partners to have! I might have to try and steal them away from you Seriously though if you arent sketching/bailing/shaking/crying from time to time chances are you arent trying to push your leading ability... there is a reason I've fallen multiple times on ice (not that I'd starting recommending it) I'm just stoked there are people on cc.com such as yourself who are not only getting out but sharing it with the rest of us. It keeps the stoke alive!

Sounds like some great booty if you ask me. Finders keepers!

Using them is what will make you a badass. Veronika has more ice TRs than just about anyone for this year... see if you can catch her (or at least keep up) and I bet you ice skills get a lot better

Wayne? Pumped on an easy 5? Are you getting old or something dude? :laf: If you're going to use a leash on just one arm or both get the detachable ones. That said I still think with practice and proper pre season training (weighted tool hangs, frenchies on tools, etc etc) no wrist leashes is the way to go assuming alpine/mixed is your overall goal. If you just want to climb pure ice and nothing more leashes might be worth a look. But that said as soon as you start mixing media (rock, snow, ice) the ability to place rock and ice gear quickly and efficiently as well as climb rock with your hands is easier with a leashless setup IMO. Umbicals can be frustrating at first but taking the time to learn how to manage them will ultimately be much less frustrating then a dropped tool on a multipitch or alpine route. I can personally vouch for this one One cautionary note about using a leash on just one arm is I can think of a handful of routes where gear placements (screws or rock gear) were only possible with a particular hand/side of my body. Having one hand leashes could easily screw you on some pitches. And the best way to fight muscle (arm) fatigue is good footwork.

Youtube has a few videos. Gadd has the best "how to" in his ice book IMO. If you dont have let me know and I can take photos of the pages and email them to you Or just send them to Dane

Some lines you instantly recognize

First one is Booker NE face Second one is Luna N face

I met my partner for the first time for this trip in the SEA airport right before flying to ANC. Sometimes you get lucky... sometime you dont. Ideally climbing with someone before a trip matters but I dont think it is a requirement. Next time instead of asking "what do you lead" ask about recent trips they have been on... if he posts on a BB (sounds like he does) look at his TRs and such. I think you can get a fairly good feel for what someone can and cant do through some dialogue. And not being familiar with the Polish route: does being able to lead WI5 matter? My understanding is it is mostly hiking (could be fully wrong about this)? I would more focus in on the skill that matter next time (expedition experience, altitude experience, etc etc) and ignore the stuff that doesnt really make or break your chances of the summit. Sure you could post a warning about that specific person but it isnt like he cant register a new name or something. Why not chalk it up as a learning experience and instead of outing the person instead post a generic warning against going on big trips with people you dont know...?

My experience with the trigger finger to date has been on true vertical/overhanging terrain the trigger isolates much of one's mass on their index finger tendon and it hurts. Crazy kiters will say anything How is the knee?

Leashless on Aztars? BADASS!

I was at that very seminar and I can assure half of that article is bullshit at best. I wouldnt believe a word of it. Russell (the author) demonstrated himself to be nothing more than a CFHQ puppet with the recent Robb Wolf fiasco. If people are really truly interested in what is Gym Jones send me a PM: I visit a few times a year. Something to keep in mind is Gym Jones is much more than Twight. The Gym Jones staff has a number of elite athletes in their respective field. Yes if you are a boulder/sport climber Mtn Athlete wont really help you that much. I've done 3 separate seminars with Rob Shaul (Mtn Athlete) over the past 2 years and I think he has some great ideas/insight into ways to mix your foundational training with your sport specific training. I do disagree with him on some of his programming but I think that goes along with the "take what works for you and go hard" you guys keep repeating. Though Rob is a non climber his gym population is one of the best out there... Exum and Teton Mtneering guides. Additionally he has worked with some badass alpinists: Gilmore, Wilkinson, etc etc. With respect to everyone's question of when did Litz start he started BEFORE he went on a sending spree at ten sleep. Details here To those of you wondering about weight gain: weight gain is a function of the rep scheme you are doing in your lifting and diet. Litz will not gain weight as Gym Jones is smart enough to design his programming so that he wont gain weight. I have LOST WEIGHT since starting the programming Gym Jones gave me. I hope this clears up some misconceptions about Gym Jones and Mtn Athlete.

Dude: that is two of many many elite athletes they have there... take 2 minutes and look through the disciples tab for a small sample In fact here is one closer to home for you: James Litz climbs harder than anyone on this page: Scroll down And Ill say it again for those in the cheap seats who didnt hear me NO ONE including GYM JONES/MFT/MTN ATHLETE is claiming their training program will replace your sport specific training. Is it an excellent foundational program that when used as a part of your periodization programming will enhance your sport specific performance? Yes.

How many zone blocks is vomit worth? Is it negative zone blocks?

Video of FAs in Cody :: :: baa [video:vimeo]8358741

You're wrong. Olympic Medalist Pan American

:laf: Why is it I cant resist these threads? When will I ever learn? First to quote MFT "puking is a sign of poor programming" Secondly any athlete at gym jones drinks less booze in a year then just about anyone on this site does in a month... if not a weekend. But yeah... given the proper motivation (the carrot... or the stick? or both? ) anybody can puke/pass out. And I'd bet just about any keyboard warrior on cc.com could write a crippling (literally) workout. That said: why do we train? I'd guess most of use training in hopes to be better at something than before we performed the workout/training cycle. So without bogging down in the biochemistry details too much if you reach the point of puking/passing out though you have worked hard ultimately you have done more damage (free radical creation, tissue damage, etc etc) then good (overall improvement to fitness). Numerous examples of this exist... just search "hardest workout" or some variant on youtube... you'll find MMA fighters doing workouts with a gas mask on... is doing tabata sprints on an AirDyne with a gas mask on hard? Hell fucking yes! Will you increase your cardiovascular capacity? Yes! However... will you create a ton of free radicals in your body? You know it! So... though you've performed a really hard workout and chances are you will pass out/puke and/or come really close that said ultimately you have more damage then good and shouldnt have done the workout. That said... to quote MFT (again! ) "Some might consider [what we do] tough simply because what constitutes hard work has slipped over the last 30 years. These days unremarkable fitness is called elite. What we do in the gym isn't old-school hard. But it's passable and our guys fairly capable." Most days I do my best to stay out the hole. Some days I dig a really deep hole.

Team Harro is climbing there now... Ill call them and see how things are and get back to you FWIW the canyon is generally much colder than the town proper and many of the routes dont get a lot of sun... my suspicion is routes just got fatter.

Me too!

Malcolm reviewed them earlier this year and I believe he wasnt too impressed with them. He has a number of training/how to articles on his site that use your actual ice tools

Shortly after Minnesota legalized gay marriage he moved out there to consummate his climbing "partnership" with Chaps 8D

Thanks all! Doug should have another video for the FAs in Cody day later this week so check back!