John Frieh

The one I had to carry was like 3 lbs! And that's not including that damn radio... With Adventure Medical selling first aid kits weighing in at a half pound (the ultralight series) I would argue NOLS first aid kits are a little on the heavier side. Personally, I think people should look at their first aid kit for what it contains, not how much it weights. Trim weight elsewhere: pack, rope, biners, etc. I completely agree; knowledge and judgment are thee two best tools you can take in the backcountry. Useless without the other, but invaluable when used together.

You can vary your first aid kit contents based on the activity you will be pursuing (mtn biking vs climbing for example). I carry a WMI wound pack, a few band aides and gauze, a SAM splint with ample splitting material (tape) at minimum. Depending on how far from medical response I am headed and long the trip is, I will add to that. If I go to Smith or some other more populated area, I also stash gloves and a micro mask (can't be too safe with those slutty sport climbers these days ) in the top of my helmet; this way it's always there. Kinda not related, but if I'm in the back country or on a long route, I stash an empty unused shit bag in the top of my helmet (feel free to make all the shit head jokes you'd like) instead of the micromask to keep the routes clean for all. Because who likes coils dropped on their head? If you think you are a lifer for climbing; especially alpine climbing I would highly recommend taking a wilderness first responder course (WFR). You can take a condensed one in a week, or take the standard over a semester. I view WFRs like an AVY class, essential if you plan to venture into the backcountry. Yes they cost money, but how much is your life (or your partner’s) worth? Generally what people consider essential first aid kit material increases after completion of this course.

Or maybe the sediments for the attacks came from the realization that america is a bunch of heartless idiots like yourself that think its okay for Israel to have WMD (which they are required to purchase with each aid check we send) but not okay for Saddam (even though we gave them to him but a decade ago). But hey... have we found any yet? I thought that's why we went in the first place. Or maybe it was just an exercise in the combat picture readiness of our troops... You need to transfer to a liberal arts college in america soon or your brain might become permanently retarded. And no ones perfect; yeah Miramax is selling out, but generally one has to use the system to change it. Just an idea.

I thought you were a flag wavin' laissez faire minded scab? Wouldn't you be supportive of anyone perpetuating the “great” capitalist way of life (or is death the correct term?) regardless of who they are prospering from? Or are your feathers all rustled up when a few of us lemmings don’t march to the drum beat?

So what were you trying to say?

As far as I have heard yes. I have parked there a number of times for E. side LC routes and never had a problem, but a buddy of mine last year had to bail off TRL and barely got back to his truck before getting towed. You could call DOT and ask them, but I get the feeling WSP might not give a shit. 0.2 miles isn't that far.

Stop the train... perhaps I read this wrong, but are you attributing 9/11 to Moore?

You could buy a Wild Things Andinista and use it for the approach (5000 c.i.) as well as the summit push (compresses to 1800 c.i. via zippers). Stripped down (no foam, etc.) it weighs less than 2 lbs (at least the older models). I like the Lowe Alpine Attack Summit pack; it doubles as a sleeping bag stuff sack on the approach. The MEI one looks great also.

I meet him at the WTO protest in Seattle a few years back; very nice, knowledgeable man that was easily approached. What's worse? Distorting the truth as Moore supposable does, or just plain hiding it behind "patriot" acts, Supreme Court hunting buddies, and questions whose appropriateness is predetermined by the individuals being questioned (all behind closed doors of course)?

And don't park your car at the bend in the road across the street from the trail; WSP has identified towing cars parked here a great source of revenue (in addition to patrolling for a silver with OR plates... bitches...). Its better to drop one partner at the bend with the gear and have the other drive up to Blue Lake campground and park and walk back down (its only .2 miles). You'll be glad when come off anyways as the will be much more readily accessible.

Offset aliens and cam hook mastery will guarantee a clean ascent. You might want to wait until June as you will encounter some wet sections (esp. down low) this time of year. Take a comfy harness or a ledge for the 4th pitch belay unless you don't like your kidneys or enjoy cherry coke colored piss. Also, consider the alternate bolted start that Mr. House put up a few years ago; much more enjoyable (beta: all bolts and 1 #4 camalot placement). I attached a topo.

I rather be considered a wanker than a turd...

It has been years (back in those high school days) and we didn't get zebra/zion in due to lines and lack of GU, but yeah, I've done it a few times. It's not as bad as it sounds; especially if you simul Moscow, Monkey's and Sky ridge. You can always substitute cinnamon slab and moonshine for zebra/zion... the goal is to get 20 pitches in a day. I know of a few others if you're interested... A good one at Leavenworth is Outer Space, descend, Orbit, descend, (and Hyper Space if you are that bad ass), hike out and do as many routes on Careno as possible. More hiking than Smith, but assuming you can crank 2 routes on Careno in addition to Orbit and OS, you can break 20 again. My rule at Leavenworth is always try to get more pitches in than ticks. I thought TRs for single pitch and general cragging was borderline wankernous on this site…?

Have you done the Idaho version? I need to scan my slides but man oh man it was hot...

I don't know anything... remember?

Hand jammies and heel spurs... the end is near I tell you. I predict the next "climbers" will be content just to see what the smallest hold is they can hang off of... Sharma will somehow hang from his left hand pinky off a quarter pad dimple set in a horizontal roof... I predict a new grading system... think about it... first came rock climbing to train for the mountains, then sport/gym climbing to train for rock climbing, now bouldering to train for sport climbing... the end is near... what are these mountains you speak of?

I have a friend who went up about a month ago (he didn't top out); he doesn't post on this board though. What questions do you have and I can pass them on.

Finger of Fate is in Idaho (close to the sawtooths/elephant’s perch and company): as good (personally I think better than) outer space... a true classic. I have the topo/beta; let me know if you'd like it. If you practice, you can easily bust the upper ridge in a day car to car, if not the entire ridge. Not having bivy gear on your back will only increase you enjoyment of this already classic route (and you won’t have to haul big bags on the gendarme pitches). And as evil as it sounds, I loved passing people on that route grunting big packs. Some guy asked me where my bivy gear was and I told him I was wearing it (I had shorts on). There are a number of things you can do to prepare for the ridge as well as things to do while on the route. A few things to do on the route: approach from the Leavenworth and go out the Cle Elum side (will require a car shuttle though, but worth it), simul anything 5.7 or easier (try to get at least 4 normal length pitches per lead change, if not more), and practice. Practice wise here goes: All the routes listed are great recommendations; you might also want to consider climbing east and/or west ridge of Forbidden, especially if you are new to ridge climbing. The west ridge is great simul terrain. Also look into the West Face of NEWS (do it the same day you do NW corner… you can aid the 5.11 easily) a great climb and it stays cool even on the hottest days. And if you really want to experience OWs, climb Chianti spire. The second pitch will swallow you (10 inches!). Which reminds me of my favorite OW quote: it’s like sex… just get in there and wiggle around until you find something that works… (I might add don’t pump out early…). While you are up there, climb Burgundy (do one one day and the other the next). Some link ups at crags might also be a consideration (definitely easier at some crags compared to others). My favorite at smith goes like this: Climb super slab, rap, climb Moscom, hike misery to Monkey’s, climb Monkey’s via the pioneer variation, rap, climb Trezlar, rap, climb Spiderman (if no line), rap, climb ski ridge, rap, climb white satin, rap, and finally climb zebra/zion (the true test if you can climb any 5.10 after a long day) and karate crack if you have any gas left in the tank. And take at least one pack with you (have the second wear it). Speaking of packs: regardless of whether you opt for one day or two, you will end up probably wearing a pack on the route (I highly recommend the Grivel Manu) for water and shoes storage; practice these routes with that stuff on your back. And Matt is right; the OW isn’t that bad and more importantly it is one mini pitch of the big picture. If anything its more fist in size, which if you practice you will walk (hopefully with a small pack). Let the board or me know if you want more beta, pictures, etc. All this talk about this route is making me wish its summer.

I heard the underground guide is a chapter in the new smith guide book.

Hand and fist cracks. The second pitch of Finger of Fate is very close in size to the fist crack (though a little bigger). Do orbit and outer space in a half day; the upper pitches of OS will help (avoid the temptation to use the chickheads). Additionally all the belay changes on these routes will help you get up the ridge faster (practice makes perfect...). Are you planning on simuling any of the route? One day or two? Entire ridge or upper?

I agree they are aid (as I think tape is also); but I thought I'd still stir the pot: if sticky rubber on your hands is aid; why isn't sticky rubber on your feet aid? And why aren't people ranting about chalk? Chalk does much more environmental impact than hand jammies... eye sore anyone? On positive aspect that I support: anyone using them in place of tape does cut down on waste. Reuse!

I posted a few of the pictures I took on the climb in my gallery. There is one of the berg (as of 5/8) for those of you considering this climb.

Wireless PDA on treadmill as we speak... Sometimes I love my job.

***You Are Ignoring This User***

Just use the ignore user option people. Once he realizes that we all view him the same way all the girls do in his community college classes, he'll have to go back to trolling RPG websites and match.com. JoshK: I was thinking the same thing, but realized it would require us to sink to his level. Perhaps we should consider enacting a rule of one climbing TR per quarter or something. Just a thought.