John Frieh

Since when do people believe everything Rock and Ice prints? Wasn't it R&I that promoted Dan's speed times on Rainer and Hood? "But... but... but... rock and ice said I only needed 10 draws..." And quit bagging on the FA party! Their names are not found in the by line on the article. The bottom line is you got tried and you failed. Not a big deal unless you don't learn anything from this experience. If you haven't failed before then you probably haven't been climbing that long. The saying goes: "If you're not cold, you brought too many clothes If you're not hungry, you brought too much food And if you succeed, it was probably too easy anyways."

Here's an excerpt from an email I got from Twight regarding the grivel trigger mounts: Good luck if you go north in winter, Mark P.S. Cascade and Mixte have the geometry to match the Tech and Top Wing tools. They cannot be used on Alp Wing. And be careful of putting triggers on tools that do not have a "pommel" to support your hand, it puts a lot of stress on the trigger finger.

The way the grivel attachment mounts prevents one from using it for a pinky rest as the mounting piece is above the rest so you can't clasp your hand around the shaft. I use it only as it is intended (a trigger finger mount). A word of caution: trigger finger mounts without pinky rests (which are found on most leash less tools) is a great way to screw up your fingers (pulled tendons anyone?). A friend of mine just duct taped cam hooks to his... worked okay.

Umm yeah. I hear REI sells them.

Sounds like a lot of people this site need to start drinking more...

Is your life worth the cost of a rap ring? As far as what AMGA teaches (and by no means is this the final definitive correct answer) its a no no.

Umm… I’m not going to stand by and let you badmouth someone just because you can’t route find. More experienced climbers on this site obviously climbed this route with no problem (ex. Alpinedave, chuck, etc.). All of us this site would greatly prefer that no one get hurt on a route (look at the liberty ridge thread). But like I said before and will say again: You and only you are responsible for yourself in the mountains. Most people can’t climb A2: does that mean there should be a bolt ladder up Liberty Crack? People bite off more than they can chew all the time; every once in awhile they pay the ultimate price for it. It sucks, but natural selection happens. The route is not a time bomb if parties such as your self honestly analyze the route requirements prior to and decide whether or not it is in within their ability level. Just because a route is not within your ability level doesn’t mean it should be super bolted to allow you to slide by. You don’t see people bitching at Potterfield for not providing bolt anchors or a topo to Girth pillar in his book, do you? If people are too stupid to be able to discern in between this route and a sport route at smith, they shouldn’t be climbing anyways. You’re right, I don’t know your experience, etc. I didn’t assume to either. But as much as you don’t like people making assumptions about you, why are you making assumptions about the FA parties bolting modivations?

Word.

Unlike the gym or sport climbing it sounds like you (awagen) are accustom too (I apologize if I assume incorrectly), it has never been, nor will it ever be the responsibility of the FA party to equip an alpine route such that it is accessible to the lowest common denominator. If this were somehow true; all routes would be nothing more than 5.6/A0 lines. You and only you are responsible for yourself in the mountains. The n. cascades is not smith, rifle or any other place where “climbers” think it’s okay to use tic marks to make up for the short term memory they smoked away the night before. Leave your spray paint at home. And if you can’t route find (as it sounds like), practice on smaller routes or go on bigger routes with more experienced climbers. Just because you became disoriented on a route for whatever reason doesn’t mean it’s the FA parties fault. Blaming them for not bolting low 5th class terrain is poor form. I applaud the FA parties’ decision to not publish a topo; it only places more responsibility on all who choose to attempt this route (such as yourself).

Who is it? PS I think blasphemy is the word you are looking for.

A request: could we please refrain from using homophobic language on the site? I would greatly appreciate it.

Could it be a possibility that the shortcoming(s) actually do not lie with the route? Just a thought...

All the more reason to park your car at Blue Lake... who wants to walk 1.8 miles humping a pig after thin red... only to find your car got towed?

Right on!

I love how you fucks always assume the rest of us actually want in... if that was the case why do you dicks have to spend so much each year on recruiting??? What was the theme for your homecoming dance this year? Midnight in Paris? What’s the matter? Didn’t get to go to any in high school? Does your frat get a bulk discount on Rohypnol?

I don't think this is early season anymore. If anything the season on gib is almost over...

Delta Chi!?!? I knew it; you’re a frat dick! You call everyone one this site gay, but who is the one that chooses to live in a house with 40 other guys? I always wanted to know: how do you guys schedule who gets to wear which Abercrombie shirt on a certain day?

Frat? School?

Are you seriously in a frat? Which school?

I rather swim in slush any day than climb the world's tallest gravel pile.

Fear of heights generally stems from fear of falling to one's death. This can be minimized if you explain the physics of falling: how much energy one could possible generate in a fall and compare this to how much energy is required to blow up an anchor, a biner, a rope, a runner, etc. Reviewing John Long's climbing anchors or NOLS wilderness mountaineering will cover any gaps you might have. Also, make it a point to cite all the redundancies in your anchor when she arrives: if this blew up, this would back it up, etc. etc. Start on routes that are well below her climbing ability level with comfy belay ledges. Even better, do multipitch sport routes and then get into multipitch trad. As she builds confidence with those, you can work up to bigger routes. Finally, keep in mind multipich isn't for everyone. Gauge her enthusiasm for proposed routes and look to see if she is pushing to do a route (or if its all your idea).

You don't need mashies. If you think you need a head placement, you need to top step or reevaluate your placement options. The fish headmaster kit is a great head kit (when you get into it). The BD physical store in Utah generally has all the leeper hooks in stock; get two of the 3/4 inch, two of the 1/2 inch, and 1 micro. The fragile flake hooks are nice, but you won't need them on this route.

You will come up roughly 30 ft short of the top with a 60 m. Go with Greg W's advice, but make sure whatever you do, your girlfriend is comfortable with it. The last thing you want to do is turn her off... (to climbing ).

I honestly feel sorry for Martlet. To this day I have never understood how anyone can get (and possible crave) self satisfaction and fulfillment from hiding behind a DSL connection and purposely attempting to anger other people. If this is his main source of attention (which it seems it is); he is obviously an introvert of some type that is so inapt at social skills and physical interaction he has turned to the comforting lull of his hard drive fan. Martlet registered a little more than a week ago, yet is already at 300+ posts (I’ve been on the site for 6 months and almost have 200). At this rate he will dethrone even Dru at posts. Personally, I value my free time greatly and anytime I have a half day to myself (heck even a few hours); there are 8 millions things I rather do instead of sitting in front of my computer hitting the refresh button. I would suspect many of the users of this page are the same way (hence the board being so dead on the weekends). Martlet: I will be on the East Coast (Boston) in the next month for work. Perhaps you might consider going bouldering with me. You need a new hobby. And sunlight.

Good point: I should clarify its tucked around the head band portion (closer to the ears) such that I maintain the space in the top of the helmet. Dr Crash: How many rock routes you been on that had fire wood chillin' on the belay ledges? If you are worried about the SAM splint weight; learn to belay with a munter hitch and leave your belay device at home. The ultra light series is a good start, but you need to analyze what injuries you will be most likely to treat. Example: broken bones are more likely rock climbing than mountaineering. Blisters are more likely with plastic/leather boots than approach/rock shoes. Go through a checklist prior to each climb and add and subtract as needed. An excellent read is Accidents in Mountaineering. You'd be amazed what kind of things you could potential face. Additionally, you can quiz yourself if you know how to treat it, would you be able to treat it with each incident.