John Frieh

Almost as worn out as calling someone a fag... And I did find the GP booty biner owner... Ade was kind enough to give me the story about his attempt. Its funny: Jens and Colin go back the next weekend and do the same "cheater" way I did by dropping over the N ridge and no one bats an eye or calls them pussy. Hmmm...

Jealousy can be such a bitch sometimes, huh? Will: what is your latest redpoint project? I hear Coe icefall is in...

I believe NOLSe and his cohort also belong on your list there Dru...no comment on why they wear the scarves I wear a bandana (not a scarf) for a few reasons... Primarily it is a habit I picked up from running ultras... one can use it as a mask on dusty parts of the trail, wrap ice cubes in it during the day, deal with sweat, etc etc… Additionally I wear it because I am a big fan of Johnny Cash and MFDoom (both sport them in some fashion though MF wears a mask on stage) and finally Pandora (whom I am dating) thinks its "hott" which might answer any questions concerning my sexual orientation. How do you like me now?

Y chromosome getting in the way again?

W0rd! My biophysics professor visited the island on a trip to the pole. He visited Shackleton's grave while he was on the island (he isn't a climber so he didn't do the traverse) and while on Antarctica he visited a cabin from one of Scott's expeditions that Shackleton was on. Something a lot more accessible is the James Caird (if you don't know read the book) which is in London. It’s amazing how many people make it to London but don't visit it...

Good work both groups! Sweet route! Fox is right: one shouldn’t have to bust any free moves on 2 and 3, but I would recommend pulling as many as possible especially if you are trying to climb it in a day as it will greatly speed things up. The crack leading up to the lip as well as above the lip is easily freed and the start to pitch 3 has some free moves one can pull that actually eliminate the need to hang from mangy fixed gear. Regarding hook moves: you shouldn’t need to do any (minus cam hooks). If you do either you need to top step or bring a larger selection of small gear. I did this route before zeros and offsets existed (in fact I didn’t own aliens at the time) and didn’t have any problem (or had to pull out the hooks which I brought the first time just to be safe). Other pitches to run together: climb as far past the dihedral pitch (pitch 8 if one doesn’t run 6 and 7 together or any other pitch for that matter) as your rope allows into the 5.7 ledge pitch (unless you are hauling).

So fox: after clipping rap bolts on Infinite bliss did you snag the summit register? And if one wasn't there would you have taken it assuming one did exist?

D00d! If you already run trail why not stick with that? If you can run 26 you can easily make it to 31 and then you can enter all the 50Ks you want... and better yet you can chest beat with the fact that you are now an ultra marathoner (any distance over 26.2) instead of being one of those plain vanilla marathon runners. I switched from pavement to trails a few years ago and my knees don't hate me nearly as much now (I probably won't need a scope until 32 now...). And they do offer all the same race distances on dirt that pavement does. Want some motivation? Become the first person to finish the plains 100 miler (run here in WA!) solo. Since the inception of the race in the 80s, of the 4 individuals who have completed the distance, each runner had to do it with another competitor (2 groups of 2) for as they all said “mental and emotional support.” Bad ass…

And since the whole point of getting a laptop is to be able to take it with you why wouldn't you go wireless? Especially since many businesses (and towns for that matter) are offering free wireless...

Unless he goes wireless (which he should) and then he should pick Centrino (aka WiFi) as AMD doesn't have a chip that competes with it. FYI/Stock tip: Intel is ramping a chip which is the equivalent of P5 only wireless (aka WMax). AMD has excellent chip layout/design and was the first in delivery of a 64 bit chip but that’s about it... (my 2 biased cents).

Toughest or Dangerous? The only reason I ask is it seems your reason to avoid red ledges is the potential for injury is greater with the steeper snow (sorry if I am wrong in my conclusion).

Not to rain on your run but you are aware that the Boston is so crowded that you can't run any faster than the masses are moving... most people who run the Boston generally record their worse time... people generally run the Boston for the scenery. Run the Seattle in Dec... lots of hills though! Or even better switch over to trail running and save your knees for climbing! Pavement kills! Recovery time varies from person to person: is this your first marathon? What is you current mileage per week/run schedule including how long is your long run, rest days, etc?

Your zoom lens is correct; the cracks are super tame. There are a few that one needs to end run, but all in all a very tame dry glacier. FYI: NOLS courses generally use some of the bigger crevasses as ice climbing intro. If you sleep on the Douglas it will sound like you are next to a river due to the large amount of water running underneath the glacier. The volume will surprise you... In regard to crampons you won't need them down on the tame portion of the glacier (the part I am guessing you looked at), but coming down from the col there generally are a few icy spots you might want them for. I can dig out my pics ( my teenage years!) and scan them if you would like to see some.

Sorry if bagging chalk doesn't meet you americana laissez-faire definition of a high quality/successful job (BTW: the individuals who do bag it also perform other tasks within their job scope...). The catch is someone does feel the job is worth while and chooses to do it. Regardless of what the job pays it puts money in their pocket and they, in turn, will spend some portion of that in the state of OR (and no matter how little it is; it is something). I commend and will continue to financial support companies such as Metolius that recognize the importance of keeping job (no matter how minor) local. As much as I wish they still made their big wall shorts; I support the choice they made a few years ago to stop making technical climbing clothing instead of farming out the work to some offshore third party. I wish my employer felt the same way.

No problem; didn't mean to sound like I was belittling you (sorry if it sounded like that). I would say pm terry (or I can email him for you if you want) and check it out... its not that bad and definitely not the steepest snow of the traverse you will encounter.

Take a chance? Shit your pants!

The snow getting to the red ledge isn't steep and further more the steps kicked have been kicked so many times you could bivy on some of them. PM Terry McClain; he and I did the traverse 2 weekends ago... he should have a pic of it (he took many). Can I ask why you are opting to avoid the red ledges?

A DUII is a felony in Oregon and Washington… however almost always first time offenders are offered diversion such that it doesn’t appear on the individuals record if they complete the diversion requirements. I personally can’t comment on how a felony conviction in the US vs. CAN is viewed (i.e. is one country softer about a criminal history), but they both consider a DUII a felony.

Your right; but if you want us to take your seriously or actually recruit some trip partners you will need to demonstrate you’ve done more than watch Vertical Limit and skimmed the pages of selected climbs… How about of all the amazing climbs you have done; name the one you are most proud of…

That is the way I did; highly recommended... Douglas is generally dry glacier by this time of year so bring your pons...

Good judgment is worthless on the mountain if you do not have anything to base it upon (Example: how would you recognize an avalanche prone slope if you have never had a Level I avy). As you have not demonstrated to the board (which obviously you are not required to however many of us would take you more seriously if you did) that you have the extensive climbing experience necessary to make sound decisions on the mountain; we find you laughable; especially when you think the crux of this climb is a class 3 snow step. Detail your climbing experience or expect more of the same.

But it sure as fuck won't put on your crampons or double back your harness for you. Attitude counts but knowledge and judgment are king. I can't wait for his yard sale post...

The dope on Super chalk as Metolius calls it is Metolius adds anti perspirant to the magnesium carbonate (thus making it super?). This allows the magnesium carbonate to dry the hands while the anti perspirant discourages further perspiration. A few other companies claim pharmaceutical grade magnesium carbonate or “pure” magnesium carbonate but unless the user stores the chalk in a dessicator; the chalk will slowly absorb water vapor from the air until it is no better than any other chalk source on the market. I personally use super chalk because of all the chalk brands I have tried I like its texture best and because Metolius bags it in Oregon.