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John Frieh

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Everything posted by John Frieh

  1. And speaking of which... I am headed that way for the upcoming holiday... if you're interested in carpooling or climbing get a hold of me!
  2. Ergos. Was also thinking about adding some to my quarks but was concerned about it interfering with the leash when I use a traditional leash system. Have you looked at grip tape? It’s super thin... I doubt the diameter increase would be noticeable...
  3. Both. A modification for leashless climbing... that's all.
  4. Considering ONLY the granite quality I would say it is a dead tie... other route characteristics will determine which route you like more. (on that subject I think the granite on astro elephant in the sawtooths is better than both of these... but then again I don't know anything...)
  5. Gloveless if dry; thin gloves on ice if temps permit.
  6. We harrassed the permit hogs (aka backpackers) and the yellow jackets harrassed us…
  7. Either... I always try to go gloveless (inside or outside) but obviously it doesn't always happen. A few people have recommended to me adding grip tape to the upper shaft and both handles so I was wondering what other people have tried...
  8. Has anyone added skateboard grip/deck tape (or something comparable) to their leashless ice tools? Particular brand you used (or is it generic)? Any problems with it pealing off over the season? Particular areas of the tool you recommend or don’t recommend applying it too? Anything else? Thanks!
  9. Awesome trip! Any info or pics of the NE face of Fury?
  10. Climb: Prusik-S Face Date of Climb: 8/15/2004 Trip Report: Brock, McKenzie, Ron and myself risked the predicted t-storms for the south side. We got lucky... good times! Approach Notes: Car to car in a leisurely (3 hour nap, swimming, backpacker harassment) 23 hours... in and out from Snow Creek. Beware the yellow jackets!
  11. Climb: Lexington Tower-E Face/SEWS SW rib Date of Climb: 8/7/2004 Trip Report: Pitch 2 Brock prior to the 3.5 camalot incident 1st piece: 2" x 6" tube chock! SEWS SW rib wideness Gear Notes: Tube chocks and 2" x 6"s for the wide stuff... Misc: Thanks to the mounties that left all those rap rings on the S Arete of SEWS... my supply was getting low edited to fix picture links
  12. I checked: Newhalem is milepost 120 and Diablo is milepost 129. Hope this helps!
  13. Liberty Bell/Washington Pass is MP 163; Silver Star gate is 170 (where they close it in the winter). I'm not sure about the west side though.
  14. Good work! S: Michael Layton is one person that has Kearney's info.
  15. Scratch's other band: Better than any DJ...
  16. Yes
  17. If you want to shop the sale a day early: http://www.patagonia.com/bigsale/ Sale items are up as of now (you must use the above URL to access the sale prior to Wednesday; they will not post the sale items in the web specials section until Aug. 11th).
  18. How wide? What crack shoes do you currently employ?
  19. How so? Someone calls me gay and I addressed it...
  20. So we're back to taking gay and dumb shots at me huh?
  21. That is what I am referring to.
  22. They posted it in mine. Jens following the TR sent me this: From: Jens Subject: Thanks again Message: We had fun. It was great having the beta you posted. It definitely made our packs lighter. Thankyou for posting a TR. I'll do the route again in a few years but not for a while. _____ We day tripped it. We were thinking of bailing and doing the west ridge cause' the weather was a little sketchy (it was snowing on us when we topped out and we didn't get to see the pillar until we were close). We went over the north ridge- I'll give you credit-great creativity by the way. We saw your rap sling. About 30 feet to the left of you sling we found and easy ramp down to the glacier with only a small moat. It looks like the glacier approach is just about blocked without bringing in lots of ice gear. We free soloed to the base of the pillar and then climbed the pillar in 3 pitches. I onsighted the 1st pitch (wet face and crack climbing about 10 feet left of the dihedral to a semi haning belay (5.10+ish). Colin took 1 hang on the short second pitch and then I went to lead the 3rd pitch but was to tired so Colin kicked it into overdrive and led it with one hang. We wouldn't have probably had to take the hangs but we were to wasted from the approach and just wanted to top out fast in the deteorating weather. And from the second doing moves with two packs on (no juamaring). next time I think we'll have the second jumar or pack haul. You guy's beta really helped us. Thanks again so much and kudos for your nice climb. happy trails
  23. So my original question stands: what am I jealous of?
  24. Kids like yourself and Will are jealous of guys like me who actually get to do more than just look at the girls in prana tops on some shitty internet page.
  25. Where is the jealousy in my post?
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