John Frieh

Hey Pete Did you get to ski anything? I know I saw you up a Muir on Sat. What a zoo huh?

Skyclimb: There is a lesson for me to learn here: don’t post after climbing 2 routes on Rainer in a weekend until I catch up on sleep and coffee intake. Obviously I misinterpreted your TR as others were kind enough to point out. In the future I should ask questions first before firing. The point I failed to make was my support with Iain’s concern over parties getting off route on the Reid and shit happening. As I have met you once before (at the OMC gear swap) and know you generally climb with the OMC (I could have swore you told me you were a member), I knew this could be a potentially violate mix. Obviously everyone on this page has criteria for what they look for in a potential partner. When I transferred to OSU from U of O I checked out the OMC (as I was in need of some new partners) and was frankly appalled with the organization, or lack of. It seemed to me that they substituted training classes with drinking sessions at the grasslands. Furthermore, there wasn’t (still till this day) a faculty rep overseeing the whole operation. Obviously this is my opinion and some might disagree with it, but I think the OMC’s accident record speaks for itself. You are obviously allowed to decide with who and how you climb and it’s not my place to say otherwise. I hope you understand what I was trying to say and that it wasn’t my intention to bag on you or your climb. I do stand by my comments regarding the OMC and hope others consider them before signing on to a trip with them. Lastly, I know its not me you think you are seeing at the meeting as I lived in PDX since spring break. How is Greg? Did he need stitches or anything?

How do you see me at the OMC meetings when I live in Portland (and if you don't believe me ask Jane or Trish)? How did you see me at the only BBQ OMC has put on this term (last Thursday) when I was on Rainer with girlclimber and Terry? Sounds like you need to lay off the Hmmm... maybe next time you think you see me come over and introduce yourself... I think you will be idly surprised. And you insinuated a FA/new variation with this: No one is calling you weak or stupid and I'm definitely not interested in resorting to childish name calling. I just hope you reconsider the possible repercussions of your choices in the mountains.

Excellent trip report Terry; it was great to have you along. I’ll have you know To The Top worked Girlclimber and myself over for details about the climb to heckle you about. I think he was a little envious… Some minor (but important) additions to the gear list: facon (fake bacon for all you clueless carnivores) and chocolate in various forms provided the crucial calories to get us through the thick of it prior to sunrise. And yes: girlclimber and her father (if he ever joins the site I think his login name should be dadclimber) allowed me to tag along as they climbed gib. Ledges on Friday night. It was comical (at least for me) to listen to the two compare notes on how much snow conditions had changed on the route in the past few weeks… one cannot truly grasp how much knowledge these two possess in regards to Rainer; I am fortunate to have been allowed to benefit from it as well as the opportunity to climb with two truly passionate climbers. We topped in 6 hours (though this would have been faster if I wasn't along) which put us on top within 24 hours of our last climb. And my boss always wonders why I’m tired on Monday… Girlclimber said she might post a TR for gib ledges (I think she should). Both girlclimber and myself took some pics of the icefall on the way out; hopefully we can get them posted soon.

Iain I know it might seem like they would need to be giving away free beer to sucker some more kids into something stupid regardless of what happened last weekend; perhaps it might clear things up if you understand that skyclimb is a member of the Oregon State University Mountaineering Club (OMC). You know... the club that even though is geographically located further away from potentially serious routes that other clubs at larger universities (U. of Colorado, U. of Washington for example) is still able to boast the highest fatality and accident rate of any university. How else would you explain such contradicting comments as: "Minimal rockfall and icefall. My friend Greg took a nice shot to the face." Though I could be wrong; I'm guessing this Greg skyclimb mentions is the same Greg of OMC fame (president/former president of the club) that almost died in an avalanche on Sandy last year. If at first you don't succeed... And to have the audacity to boast "Possible the only party in existence to do this." Hmmm... Mt Hood was first climbed in 1857. To think that there are unclimbed lines still on Mt Hood more than a century later can only be a product of existing in the bubble of self righteousness that only the OMC could create. Skyclimb: I hate to rain on your parade, but there have been a lot of hard men and women that came before you and at this rate will outlive you that probably climbed that line (and many others on Hood) but were humble enough to not report some one pitch variation that isn't even worth climbing again anyways. Congrats on pulling off a climb in the face of unexpected conditions. I hope Greg is well and was not seriously hurt. Most importantly I hope you seriously sit down and reconsider why and for who you climb for and how it is affecting the manner and style in which you climb. I'm sorry if my words seem harsh, but when individuals fail to heed the recent mistakes of others; a more direct approach is needed.

Word.

Technically speaking; skirting right to the bowling alley is not climbing EMC but I won’t give you shit for it (though someone on this page will). The EMC proper top out is generally snow with a little rock mixed in. Underneath it you will notice that depending on which line you take will dictate the steepness of the finish. When I climbed it (years ago) the left went easier (i.e. less steep). Pro is mental. Take some pickets if you are so inclined though the route isn’t that steep. Go only if it is super cold; that route is nothing more than a garbage funnel. Try to top out prior to sunrise. If you are looking for quality snow routes; check out either coulior route on stuart. Feel free to post any other Q’s you have.

I'll gladly introduce you to the alpine world if you take me surfing... PM if interested.

Anybody have an update?

Word. Knowledge and judgement: the two best tools you can take into the backcountry... useless without each other but priceless when used in conjuction.

Yeah.... Harlem streets stay flooded in white powder Like those mother f-ckers runnin' away from the twin towers Gun shots rock the earth like a meteor shower Bowling For Columbine, fair, giving the media power Innocence devoured like a chicken spot snack box Government cocain cooked into ghetto crack rock Corrupt cops false testimony at your arraignment Check to check, constant struggle to make the payments Working your whole life wondering where the day went The subway stays pakced like a multi-cultural slave ship It's rush hour, 2:30 to 8, non stoppin' And people coming home after corporate share croppin And f-ck flossin, mothers are trying to feed children But gentrification is kicking them out of their building A generation of babies born without health care Families homeless, thrown the fuck off of the welfare It's like Cambodia the killing fields uptown We live in distress and hang the flag upside down The sound of conservative politicians on television People in the hood are blind so they tell us to listen They vote for us to go to war instantly But none of their kids serving the infantry The odds are stacked against us like a casino Think about it, most of the army is black and latino And if you can't acknowledge the reality of my words You just another stupid mother f-cker out on the curb Trying to escape from the ghetto with your ignorant ways But you can't read history at an illiterate stage And you can't raise a family on minimum wage Why the f-ck you think most of us are locked in a cage I give niggaz the truth, cause they pride is indigent You better off rich and guilty than poor and innocent But I'm sick of feeling impotent watching the world burn In the era of apocalypse waiting my turn I'm a Harlem nigga that's concerned with the future And if your in my way it'd be an honor to shoot ya Up root ya with the evil that grows in my people Making them deceitful, cannibalistic and lethal But I see through the mentality implanted in us And I educate my fam about who we should trust Homicide Harldem, BLAOW!, what's the problem?

Why is it that climbers will trust someone with their life but not their gear?

Don't get me wrong; by no means (including divine intervention) am I descent boulderer (sub par comes to mind). How sucky you ask? I lead harder trad than sport (which might explain my ability to do this problem but not others). But what’s my point? I'm not trying to sandbag, but that crack honestly feels like 10+ to me which would make it no harder than V1 (assuming I understand verm’s scale correctly). Hmmm... Thoughts?

Yup thats the one. Sweet. Is that rating in the newer guide book or would someone need to look else where to determine how weak they are?

Nice work Distel... By chance do you know that boulder problem that consists of a ~12 ft. roof crack that turns the lip and climbs for ~10 ft.? It's in the white water area (I think that's what its called but lets be honest I'm not in the know). I'm wondering if you know the rating.

As mine are rapidly approaching fingerless status I can't seem to find these anywhere... has anyone in there internet travels come across these recently? I've seen them at mgear.com and usoutdoorstore.com but they only have the smalls in stock (I need mediums). Even if you know of a store that stocks them that lacks a website; give me a phone number to mail order... I'll gladly buy you a for your troubles

For what Blakej is planning on using them for (esp. out here) he should look at (in no particular order) 1) BD sabertooths 2) Grivel G 12s 3) Petzl Vasak Though the air techs and other models (BD Contact) would work just fine for WA volcanoes, the option to do steeper/more technical routes is not there where with the above list he could transition into those types of routes. Blakej should also recognize that the Petzl Vasak is merely a slightly tweaked S-12/Black Ice and assuming he settles on Petzl should just pick up a pair of S-12s/Black ice for super cheap (as everyone is clearing them out... you might have to search under the name charlet moser S-12/black ice though). And of course the G14s rock over the sabertooths... they are made for different styles of climbing. If you want to compare the G14s against something similar, try the Petzl Sarken. Or maybe not, as the Sarkens easily outperforms the G 14s and weighs 8 ounces less. It should be pointed out that Kim Csizmazia won many ice/mixed climbing comps wearing a pair of sabertooths (pre bionic days). Winning usually meant on sighting M9ish. Point is ultimately gear won't help you if you can't climb. So what are you waiting for?

Me too.

No experience with the 10.2... have a pair of 8.1 70s... love them. As far as getting a smooth lower... that is generally a function of the user/device choice; not the rope. I would suggest making a list of what characteristics of a rope are most important to you and let that guide your decision... impact force, gms/meter, sharp edge rating, etc.

no.

prefuse 73 though not related anybody checked out Madvillian (mfdoom + madlib)? Outlives all the hype!

Word. If you can find the old Arcteryx gamma ar pant those are the shit: cargo pockets, stretch, suspenders, etc, but they stopped making them. Closest thing to them is the champ pant (though those are warmer... denser weave). REI = suck

I agree with Dru; LC is nothing more than cragging. I talked to Adam (one of the two who freed it); he said though the second pitch was the crux, the roof was not the crux (he said it felt like 12+), but above it climbing on super thin features (where the rest of us mortals yard on fixed gear).

But you could wear your bd dry tool gloves...

Conditions will vary with the time of year you plan to climb it. Most climb it in late spring/early summer. You will get a more direct answer if you specify when you plan to climb it. There are a number of guide books available for Rainer; is that the kind of info you are in search of? Additionally, there is a thread in the Rainer section discussing this route at great length. Consider looking at it.