John Frieh

If your primary requirement is weight, the Trango superfly wire gate is 30 oz. (2 weigh less than almost all lockers on the market!). If you don't mind D's for crevasse rescue (I know a lot of people prefer ovals); that's the way to go. If not, go with the doval: one ounce heavier than the neutrino but oval.

You headed to the spring ski in?

Casaval is best in winter conditions as everything loose is covered/held in place. It should be pointed out (and you probably already know this) that generally one does not climb the actual ridge crest, but the moderate snow slopes underneath it. The north side is a nice contrast the packs that march the gulch; however you won't find much technical climbing. What kind of technicalities are looking for? Rock or snow? If you specify, perhaps the site can direct you towards something better.

Perhaps this is a stupid question, but will the evening ethanol research ( ) will be conducted on Friday and Saturday night or just Saturday? Will an address or specific directions be posted later? Looking forward to putting some faces with names/attitudes...

Arc Teryx (you can leave your goretex at home and just softshell it), Wild Things, and of course the Patagonia DAS are all excellent choices.

Oh and EP actually made 'ice' years back; sold it in 4x8' sheets you could cut up and use like insets. Haven't seen it in years though. It was in a back issue of climbing; I could dig it out for you if you want. Someone good to talk to would be someone at Cascade Crags rock gym in Everett; they have held an ice mixed comp the past two years.

For tooling (hooking, etc) hard wood is the way to go (oak). If you plan to swing into things, consider using a softer wood (cedar perhaps). Though it will 'feel' softer than WI, it will allow you to focus more on your swing dynamics. You can either bolt on a block, or better yet, just use it as an inset and replace after it gets chewed up.

We need an Idaho section on this page. Agreed?

I store mine in a bag filled with climbing chalk when not in use.

I smell steak sauce... weak sauce.

If you have a minor or double major in both pharmacy and spanish its easily 6 figs starting these days. Guess it comes down to needs vs. wants. What are you using that chem degree for these days?

I agree with him for the most part.

Talk to Twight; not me. He said it...

Twight had an excellent opinion of the butt he discussed in his article about czech direct for climbing (or rock and ice... can't recall). Something to the effect "hauling a plastic sled up a 30 degree slope... people will call anything climbing..."

You take glucosamine sulfate for you skin? Ummm... that's recommended for joints; specifically for suffers of osteoarthritis. I load it two weeks prior to big races, but for my knees NOT my skin. It should be pointed out that unless you have osteoarthritis, you shouldn't take it continuously as some studies have shown that it degrades cartilage over time: something you'll need if you plan to continue to climb. On an unrelated side note it gives you WICKED gas (if its a sulfur based derivative). Collin: give up chalk (Pusher recommends it as one of the best ways to enhance training on their website) and learn to take rest days. 4-6 times a week is well on your way to elbow/joint issues. You'd probably start climbing harder if you actually allowed your body some recover time.

What kind of feet do you have? Flat, narrow, wide, etc.? Do you plan to scramble and/or climb moderate rock in them? How are your ankles? Fit will be the key to your new pair of shoes. I personally wear and race ultras in montrails but because they fit my feet as well as hold up for 3 months. If montrail fits you the d7 is hot shit.

Turds. You're all turds.

I will have to dig them out and scan them, but I have some pics for you. What route are you looking at? I will warn you the approach in has thee worst slide alder I have ever crawled through (worse than dome!).

Learnign to walk with crampons on is harder than you thought, huh? Depends on size; if its not too big sew it shut with some industrial thread (carpet thread is good) that is nylon and then put a thin covering of seam sealer on both sides. If it is good sized, consider sending it back to the company (esp. arcteryx). I put a 2' cut in the upper sleeve of a hardface pullover; they just put a whole new sleeve on (for free not less).

About the weather or about smith?

Somebody better let willstrickland know... lord knows he is always looking for more Mountie thread material. Maybe he could capture some video... I wonder if blue blocker man will be making an appearance… How cool would it be to get a photo with him?

Update?

Glanced at it once at the trade show: looked okay (assuming memory serves me true... too much gear... too many companies... can't keep it all straight); obviously some stuff was bunk (clothing). What are you in the market for?

My photos of this climb as well as the second route we climbed may be viewed in the gallery.

Ask the boss... she'll know.