John Frieh

Here's my wager: Fat Teddy = Martlet

Gotnoname: One of the best (if not the best) sources for ultra light bags: nunatak Custom made in the state of Washington at weights you can't beat. I have the very first orange alpinist he ever made (had it since 2000/1)... epic fabric... no zipper... 25 ounces... 20 degrees… stuffs to the size of a loaf of bread. Can't say enough good things about their products. I'm getting a double next for some alpine cuddle sessions. Don't scoff at the prices... you get what you pay for.

Idaho... mmmm... Did you climb on elephant's perch while you were in there? We need an Idaho Forum!

My bad... The inspiration will be safe for those well versed in glacier travel and how crevasses form. Realize that this time of year they are beginning to open, but just enough to swallow you and get covered by recent snow fall. Hmmm...

fender... it's not your fault; you just can't compete with pandora. the forecast is fairly suck this weekend.

Exactly. And the impact forces do increase greatly, hence the difficulty to get one certified as both a half and twin.

Word. Before June 15th (unless you already have a permit reservation). Kind of a bigger step, but start checking out the W. Ridge of Forbidden.

BD will hook you up! They did my entire rack (slings and cam pulls) for free! If you want to change the length they will do it for you also.

Stuart weather permitting.

Depends on your pounding technique. Generally most people with a descent swing and more upper body strength (i.e males... sorry not trying to be sexist) prefer something with a bit more weight behind it: the pika hammer is sweet. You might actually like the yos hammer from BD (though if you do, lengthen the keeper sling... stock it is the correct length to hit you in the ankles). I haven't heard much about the cassin tool.

No. It must pass both test separately. Look at the link.

Where are you looking? NOAA is predicting high pressure to build starting sat....

For all you physics nerds this might clear things up a little more (its a PDF).

The beal is certified as both a twin and a half rope. That means: It passed the half rope drop test which involves dropping a 55kg weight on ONE strand in a fall simulating a fall factor of 1.8. It also passed the twin rope drop test which involves dropping a 80kg weight on TWO strands (both) in a fall simulating a fall factor of 1.8. The UIAA specifies a maximum impact force of 2540 pounds for single ropes and 1760 pounds for double ropes. To pass each test, the rope (half) or ropes (twin) did not exceed 2540 lbs (twins) or 1760 lbs (double).

From http://www.aspiring.co.nz/standard.htm Dr. C: Basically any company that makes a rope system involving 2 ropes (twin or double) that can pass both the half and twin tests can sell/market them as both, like Beal did last year with the ice line. I emailed them for the twin drop test stats (not found on the site); when I get them I will post. The take home message is you need to decide the type of climbing you will be employing this rope system for (ice only or alpine rock and ice), which will dictate your rope diameter. Once you know this, pick based on 1st) impact force, 2nd) g/meter, and 3rd) number of falls. If you are unsure about this, post more q’s. Hope this helps!

El Burrito Loco #3 3126 Ne 82d PORTLAND, OR 97220 - 5226 (503) 252-1343 Super dank burritos and chile rellenos! Just eat there after hitting rocky; eating one of their burritos is the equivalent of leading with a big wall rack on. They have an old school street fighter 2 video game machine inside: good times!

Szechuan or curry is a different kind of hot than mexican food. Dru! No distractions… you’re going to get me cravin’ burritos and thai for lunch… good think tel has wireless in the bathrooms... from my favorite Fish t-shirt: "Eat hot death!" You know its authentic Mexican when you're buzzin' from the 3 beers you had to drink just to get the burrito down. I lived with 2 dudes from burque a few years back; whenever they cooked enchiladas I would polish a stout sixer just to get through dinner while they could slide by on some high life. It all comes down to were you grew up.

They are here; you just have to look harder for them. What always cracks me up is when PNW chain taco joints (Taco Del Mar for example) think their hot sauce is hot. Every time I get a fish taco at Taco Del Mar with hot sauce, the guy tries to warn me how hot is supposable is. I always ask him "hot for oregonians or hot for authentic mexican food?"

fish tacos... mmmm...

I always tell them "Change comes from within."

Amateur. Talk to me when you get 4 in 12 hours. And yes… I deserved them all.

Mammut ropes may be lighter, but they have a higher impact force. I think of all the disciplines; alpine (and aid for that matter) is thee one that one should consider impact forces the most... unless you are absolutely sure you aren't going to fall or climb routes that have ample bomber gear placements.

Beal ropes are the goods. Don't take my word for it though: compare number of falls, elongation, impact force, and g/meter with anybody else out there. Their waterproof coat isn't the best (bluewaters is amazing), but in the alpine your biggest concern is generally impact force (at least mine is). I have a pair of ice line 70's.

Midwest... The south... I would get one every few months back when I worked at a gear shop... always wanted to work me over for beta on long overhanging raps and discuss figure 8 pros and cons for Aussie style rapping. Sometimes natural selection is a beautiful thing...

Dude! Lay off the doughnuts or something... what do you have: horsecock sized fingers?