John Frieh

El Burrito Loco #3 3126 Ne 82d PORTLAND, OR 97220 - 5226 (503) 252-1343 Super dank burritos and chile rellenos! Just eat there after hitting rocky; eating one of their burritos is the equivalent of leading with a big wall rack on. They have an old school street fighter 2 video game machine inside: good times!

Szechuan or curry is a different kind of hot than mexican food. Dru! No distractions… you’re going to get me cravin’ burritos and thai for lunch… good think tel has wireless in the bathrooms... from my favorite Fish t-shirt: "Eat hot death!" You know its authentic Mexican when you're buzzin' from the 3 beers you had to drink just to get the burrito down. I lived with 2 dudes from burque a few years back; whenever they cooked enchiladas I would polish a stout sixer just to get through dinner while they could slide by on some high life. It all comes down to were you grew up.

They are here; you just have to look harder for them. What always cracks me up is when PNW chain taco joints (Taco Del Mar for example) think their hot sauce is hot. Every time I get a fish taco at Taco Del Mar with hot sauce, the guy tries to warn me how hot is supposable is. I always ask him "hot for oregonians or hot for authentic mexican food?"

fish tacos... mmmm...

I always tell them "Change comes from within."

Amateur. Talk to me when you get 4 in 12 hours. And yes… I deserved them all.

Mammut ropes may be lighter, but they have a higher impact force. I think of all the disciplines; alpine (and aid for that matter) is thee one that one should consider impact forces the most... unless you are absolutely sure you aren't going to fall or climb routes that have ample bomber gear placements.

Beal ropes are the goods. Don't take my word for it though: compare number of falls, elongation, impact force, and g/meter with anybody else out there. Their waterproof coat isn't the best (bluewaters is amazing), but in the alpine your biggest concern is generally impact force (at least mine is). I have a pair of ice line 70's.

Midwest... The south... I would get one every few months back when I worked at a gear shop... always wanted to work me over for beta on long overhanging raps and discuss figure 8 pros and cons for Aussie style rapping. Sometimes natural selection is a beautiful thing...

I think MtnHigh might be looking for a room mate also. He lives near the zoo (I don't know if you have location requirements). PM him.

Dude! Lay off the doughnuts or something... what do you have: horsecock sized fingers?

or in Oregon.

Larger isn't always better. Generally people use smaller ropes with lighter smaller biners anyways; however if you use your wires with all your ropes (such as me) just clip the smaller one to the piece of pro and clip your rope through your hot wire or other larger wire gate on the other end. I should point out for you weight nerds (like myself) out there: two trango superflys are lighter than (most) 1 locking biner (AM-D spinball for ex.), so on alpine routes one substitute two superflys (gates opposed) for all your lockers. Doing this will not only save you weight and is still just as safe as a locker, but you gain an extra biner that is more versatile. Holla!

Sounds like someone has been studying their Twight extreme alpinism book... Don't forget Brad that Twight runs GNA and they're pushing the alp wing as the next great alpine tool.

I'm referring to the WC helium biner; I know the superfly is 30 g and as far as I know the lightest full service biner going. I was planning on a few, but if the WC one is lighter, I'll switch.

The WC Helium clean wire is 33g. Which one are you talking about?

Hi Jim! How is that haul bag treating you? Email me at your leisure; I'd like to climb at Horsethief with you some time. All: Jim's guide is excellent!

Project Logic Featuring DJ Logic on Turntables, Melvin Gibbs on Bass and Skoota Warner on Drums Have you checked out Charlie Hunter? The mighty Mos (among others) has appeared on one of his albums... super cool.

The new one is Hot Hot Hot! He's touring with Diverse and friends right now... doing a show in PDX this week!

I have solo aided it in the winter... the snow wetness won't stop you; it will just force mandatory aiding in sections you wouldn't want too. As far as freeing things goes, insist on freeing the 5th pitch (it sucks to aid), run 6 and 7 together (making them 6) and free 7. I have aided 7 and I don't recommend it... it just doesn't protect well (from an aid standpoint). There is a loose block at the top of 4 (at least the last time I climbed it); pull down not out... The 5.9 at the top goes free in a downpour... its hands and fists so it doesn’t matter how wet it gets. Is there specific pitches you are worried about? Packed your cam hooks?

Dru: Enjoy this one... Michael: hot or not (Bonus points: name that dog...)? Thanks to all for GP info! Keep it coming!

I'd wait a couple of weekends... the first pitch is likely wet as well as the 7th (if you run 6 and 7 together making it 6) which is harder to aid (a sweet 5.9 anyways... you want to free that one). Here is some other info I copy/pasted out of a previous post of mine (sorry if its not what you were looking for): PM me or post them here if you have other specific questions.

Michael... how do you feel about 2 gauge prince alberts? I'm in PDX (also)... we need to talk (about routes).

Forrest: thanks! Nice pic! Check your pms for a few others questions if you don't mind. Dru/others: Yes I was on the aid route. I made it as high as the bivy ledge 2/3 up the route (like I said in the original thread that started this all). The weather turned south over night and we bailed. As I DID NOT top out, I do not consider that I have climbed the route… I apologize if people were confused on this fact; it wasn’t my intention to imply I have summited. Yes I did make it past the crux of the route, but until I top out I contend I haven’t done it (I believe you all will agree with me). As most would agree the aid is the crux, I can offer rack specifics as well as advice on managing the rope madness for the descent. NNB is on my list for the summer, I am in search of one person to make a team of 4... IF you are interested and have significant aid experience drop me a pm. I firmly believe it can go clean. All of you that have sent me pms so far, it will take me a day or two to answer them (work strikes again); I will get to them soon. Let the bashing begin...

And like I said; I'll gladly share any and all beta I have; however I won't go as far as to post a TR. I intend to get back on it this summer (I hope you're reading this Brock and McKenzie...) and will post a recent TR. But until then people will need to start a thread or better: pm me with specific questions. Girth Pillar beta? Please?