John Frieh

or in Oregon.

Larger isn't always better. Generally people use smaller ropes with lighter smaller biners anyways; however if you use your wires with all your ropes (such as me) just clip the smaller one to the piece of pro and clip your rope through your hot wire or other larger wire gate on the other end. I should point out for you weight nerds (like myself) out there: two trango superflys are lighter than (most) 1 locking biner (AM-D spinball for ex.), so on alpine routes one substitute two superflys (gates opposed) for all your lockers. Doing this will not only save you weight and is still just as safe as a locker, but you gain an extra biner that is more versatile. Holla!

I'm referring to the WC helium biner; I know the superfly is 30 g and as far as I know the lightest full service biner going. I was planning on a few, but if the WC one is lighter, I'll switch.

The WC Helium clean wire is 33g. Which one are you talking about?

Hi Jim! How is that haul bag treating you? Email me at your leisure; I'd like to climb at Horsethief with you some time. All: Jim's guide is excellent!

Project Logic Featuring DJ Logic on Turntables, Melvin Gibbs on Bass and Skoota Warner on Drums Have you checked out Charlie Hunter? The mighty Mos (among others) has appeared on one of his albums... super cool.

The new one is Hot Hot Hot! He's touring with Diverse and friends right now... doing a show in PDX this week!

I have solo aided it in the winter... the snow wetness won't stop you; it will just force mandatory aiding in sections you wouldn't want too. As far as freeing things goes, insist on freeing the 5th pitch (it sucks to aid), run 6 and 7 together (making them 6) and free 7. I have aided 7 and I don't recommend it... it just doesn't protect well (from an aid standpoint). There is a loose block at the top of 4 (at least the last time I climbed it); pull down not out... The 5.9 at the top goes free in a downpour... its hands and fists so it doesn’t matter how wet it gets. Is there specific pitches you are worried about? Packed your cam hooks?

Dru: Enjoy this one... Michael: hot or not (Bonus points: name that dog...)? Thanks to all for GP info! Keep it coming!

I'd wait a couple of weekends... the first pitch is likely wet as well as the 7th (if you run 6 and 7 together making it 6) which is harder to aid (a sweet 5.9 anyways... you want to free that one). Here is some other info I copy/pasted out of a previous post of mine (sorry if its not what you were looking for): PM me or post them here if you have other specific questions.

Michael... how do you feel about 2 gauge prince alberts? I'm in PDX (also)... we need to talk (about routes).

Forrest: thanks! Nice pic! Check your pms for a few others questions if you don't mind. Dru/others: Yes I was on the aid route. I made it as high as the bivy ledge 2/3 up the route (like I said in the original thread that started this all). The weather turned south over night and we bailed. As I DID NOT top out, I do not consider that I have climbed the route… I apologize if people were confused on this fact; it wasn’t my intention to imply I have summited. Yes I did make it past the crux of the route, but until I top out I contend I haven’t done it (I believe you all will agree with me). As most would agree the aid is the crux, I can offer rack specifics as well as advice on managing the rope madness for the descent. NNB is on my list for the summer, I am in search of one person to make a team of 4... IF you are interested and have significant aid experience drop me a pm. I firmly believe it can go clean. All of you that have sent me pms so far, it will take me a day or two to answer them (work strikes again); I will get to them soon. Let the bashing begin...

And like I said; I'll gladly share any and all beta I have; however I won't go as far as to post a TR. I intend to get back on it this summer (I hope you're reading this Brock and McKenzie...) and will post a recent TR. But until then people will need to start a thread or better: pm me with specific questions. Girth Pillar beta? Please?

Just because "give it up" works on your ladies doesn't mean I'm gonna be that easy Michael... I’m a four beer minimum* before you can start taking advantage of me… First things first... I am in desperate need of some route specifics for Girth Pillar. If anyone has been to at least the bivy ledge (top of 2) or possesses intimate knowledge (pitch lengths come to mind) of the route from a reliable source; please pm me... I will make it worth your time. Speaking of which, does anyone know where specialed is? Specialed: check your pms or email... If I got this information, I might be a little more reluctant to share about NNB… Speaking of NNB… I hesitate to post TRs for climbs I've done prior to joining the board; especially when climbers who have accomplished far more than I ever will (ex. Lowell Skoog) don’t. Case in point; you don’t see him posting a TR for any of the many FAs he did prior to cc.coms creation. If anything, I feel like it would come across as a weak attempt to further promote my already oversized ego, and we all know there isn’t much room left on this site for egos. And if anything, I haven’t earned it. If you are in search of beta for NNB, pm me… I’ll gladly help in any way I can (if it isn’t already apparent from my ninja like quickness to spray beta on anyone who asks about a route I have done…). Michael: you interest in nailing the butt? Got plans for the 4th holiday? Holla at your boy! *a sliding scale is currently in place; pm me with a pic of yourself and I can let you know if you qualify…

It's always ice climbing season somewhere... The grivel double spring actually at full extension (hung on) isn't much longer than the full extension of one's arm so one could easily hang on them while placing or depumping and still reach them with out having to pull up on the cord. And if drytooling is considered A0 anyways, what's wrong with ensuring you won't drop your tools in the mtns since the only time you would climb leashless would be on mixed terrain with an UC?

I would still expect some snow on the slab pitches based on what I saw two weeks ago. The gend. might be wet from snow melt also. Finally, if you are only doing the upper ridge, the entrance couloir is fairly snow filled, so don't expect the 4th class the guide book promises. Sherpa is the descent... some cracks were opening so stay sharp. Kinda still a little early for it.

Because it's easier to switch hands with umbilicals than nondetachables... I swear I only use them in the gym... I swear...

this one You can view on gna.com also under the indoor set page.

So your vote is for the BD offering? If I recall correctly some of your prior posts, you were anti grivel double spring? Aid I think were your words. Still hold that opinion after this trip?

Guess we all don't own a strap on...

Can't IP ban with a proxy... he'll be back.

What do you think of the CM (crap... my bad... petzl now) detachable leash? Seems fairly idiot proof to me...

Well obviously that's the proof we needed. Dan - style.

Hey Dru Were they dropped because the buckle accidentally released or were you unclipped from the tool for a mixed move or placing gear or something? I would argue, depending on how you place gear (staying in your leashes vs. getting out) that if you always get out of one that it doesn't matter which leash style you use: fixed or detachable leashes, your chances of a dropped tool is the same as you are separating yourself from the tool.

Damn that's good. Chalk one up for the good guys.