John Frieh

After spending a small fortune on gear, this was my conclusion too. I've put a small fortune into my mental and physical fitness but considering the returns I've seen to date my only regret at this point is that I didnt make the investment earlier.

Seperate the two. Ignoring what is and isnt light (I'll leave that for the armchair mtneers and bloggers to debate) going as fast as safely possible is common sense. Sure most routes wont punish you for going slow(er) but as the commitment required for a route increases often speed factors more and more in the outcome. The question should be what is the best way to go fast? Is it going light? I would agree with the sentiments from above... light is important to going fast but if you dont know what you are doing then going light is actually making things worse as you wont be prepared for when it does go down. As Bouchard said "gear wont make up for a lack of skill... skill often makes up for a lack of the latest, fanciest gear". So what is the best way to go fast? Some climbers and bloggers would like you to think it is the latest, lightest gear. And they would be right to an extent... carrying less often means moving quicker. That said putting some effort into your mental and/or physical fitness will likely make you much faster than a complete gear overhaul.

Lead is a precious metal

Yes but getting financing is nearly impossible. As far as I can tell either your debt to income needs to be tiny (not likely if you're already in the real estate game) or you have enough cash to make it happen without financing. Lots of great deals in PDX right now Bill... wanna lend me some $$$

Excellent trip report all around Mikey

Do you know what your basal metabolic rate is? How many days total? Sleeping warm or cold?

Nice work dude Rock and roll

fair enough. If and when you decide to refine it a little dont hesitate to solict me for some input... I love to talk programming

Train smarter. Not harder.

Thanks all. @Gene: I've heard the same thing and yes it was part of the reason why I timed this trip like I did. I've been watching the weather closely since Colin and Jed did it in 2007 and unfortunately windows like this dont occur every year from what I can tell. That said the person you should ask would be Mark Westman (and buy him a when you do!) He could give you the best comparison on late winter vs early spring

I did but I suspected it was the lack of overlap between the nose and the wire so I put both of them in a vice and gave them a slight squeeze to bend the material and they havent dont it since. No need to replace the biners in my opinion.

Trip: Mt Huntington - Nettle-Quirk Date: 3/19/2011 Summary: On March 18th, Jason Stuckey (Fairbanks, Alaska) and I, John Frieh (Portland, OR), flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below Mt. Huntington. On March 19th we climbed to the summit of Mt. Huntington via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk), and descended via the same route, in just under 23 hours round trip (returning to camp on March 20th around 5 am). I believe this was the second ascent of Mt Huntington during the winter season. We found the route to be nearly all glacial ice which made for a slower than hoped for ascent as well as some amazing calf pump. Nevertheless we were pleased to complete the route to the summit and back in under 24 hours. Finally, Paul of Talkeetna Air Taxi picked us up around 9:30 am on the 20th making for less than 48 hours total in the range. Smash and Grab. Mount Huntington courtesy of Talkeetna Air Taxi Itinerary: March 17: PDX -> SEA -> ANC -> Talkeetna March 18: Paul/TAT flew us to the East Fork of the Tokostina Glacier (~11 am). Quickly set up camp and then scouted the lower portion of Nettle-Quirk. Returned to camp. March 19/March 20: Mt Huntington summit via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk). Approximately 23 hours (6 am on the 19th -> 5 am on the 20th) bergschrund to bergschrund. Paul picked us up at 9:30 am on the 20th. Details: - Though Jason lives in Fairbanks and has climbed all over the great state of Alaska this was his first trip into the Alaska Range. By chance I met Jason less than a month ago in the Anchorage Airport on my way home from Valdez. I can't thank him enough for taking a chance to go climbing with a complete stranger. - This trip likely would never have happened if it not for the excellent beta that Paul Roderick and Mark Westman provided on conditions and their opinion of the weather forecast. Mark especially has been a great source of AK beta for me over the past few years and I owe him many beers for that. Do me a favor and buy him one next time you drink with him - I also owe Colin Haley and Jed Brown thanks for the beta from their ascent of Mt Huntington in 2007, the first winter ascent of Mt. Huntington. Buy them beers also - Finally many thanks and much respect to Gym Jones for all that they have provided me. I consider their guidance and perspective one of the most valuable tools I have as a climber. Finally: the climb March 18: TAT is so cool they let us bivy in their office I let Jason have shotgun as it was his first time into the range Room with a view Crossing the schrund to recon what we would do in the dark the next morning March 19: Soloing thin slab early in the morning Glacial ice: hope your tools are sharp! Near the top of the couloir Traverse pitches Pull your balaclava down for the photo on 3 Looking back from the summit at the summit ridge March 20: 48 hours later: back in Talkeetna Approach Notes: Talkeetna Air Taxi

Thanks dudes. I'll try to get a TR with pics done tonight or tomorrow. Here is one of my favorites:

If you came up Bedal Creek you had to see it. Come on Tom.. make with the photos! :laf:

Goddamit. Well done team. Very impressive... I hope one of your TRs win the March Trip Report Prize

:laf: Awesome! We actually considering bring the B.O.B. on that trip but dont have a ski attachment so we opted for the carry.

The last decade of FAs @ Stobach? Sounds like a lot of photos of Portland, OR based climbers :laf: Sounds like a great show! Do you have to RSVP to attend? Or just to show photos? Looking forward to it

:laf:

No but they get pissed if you add climbing holds

Dude: grab Ruderman and get your butt to AK. Prime time to be there!

Those should all be huge but if you want call Northern Lights and ask to talk to someone regarding ice conditions in the canyon.

Thanks for the update

Thanks all. @Schmitz & Mark: got some beta from a local on BIG rigs that come in every October. Pencil it in dudes @Gene: you know it! @Anastasia: nice work in CAN. You're representing the PDX ice climbing contingent quite well this winter

I needed it for the sketchy driving!