kurthicks

you can also get some supplies at www.boundtree.com they've got some good stuff on there too. one more thing about CPR--when I took my WFR course they said that it is about 30% efficient, which is why you can stop after 30 minutes unless care is on the way.

or do they? go check out Will Gadd's book on page 34. he's got what appears to be 3 of them labeled BD on his harness... as for screamers, i'll use regular ones on all the screws i place if i've got 'em.

yea, good for avalanches.

lots of

i'm no avy expert myself, but it does kind of look like a very small slab. it looks like Chair Peak too. when did you take the photo? we had a nice big spindrift come by on Saturday when we were there...

tim, i did the NF with CKouba on saturday as a day trip. left the car at 5am. it was both of our first times up to Chair and we (or me at least) were a little worried about getting off route/lost, etc. all was ok though, i brought the topo from Selected climbs. the route was really snowy and there wasn't that much ice. the moat was easily bypassed on the right side. pickets were the most useful pro we took with us. we did a long 1st pitch to a fixed pin, then a pitch to trees, then around the corner to more trees, then to the top w/ pickets. we averaged one piece of pro per pitch. i didn't feel exposed or too terribly committed during the route at all. some wallowing was had. anyways, it's too bad you didn't follow our footsteps, i bet it was a nice staircase on sunday. alas, i didn't make it up the Toof this weekend like we wanted to, but what about next weekend? any takers? kurt

sounds fun. that was a possiblity for us this weekend, but after Chair we were spent. perhaps in a few weeks...

my girlfriend returned some stuff there a couple weeks ago with the same results. they told us that if you don't have a reciept or proof of purchase on your account then they give a credit instead of cash. $220 will give you a couple of cams or ropes or something, not all of which is REI crap.

bug, we did the nf on saturday. you can get down with one 60, providing you're comfortable with downclimbing 50+ degree snow below the cornice after the rap. there is a second rap anchor, it's obvious on the left side of the gully. i don't know if one 60 will reach it though. the main rap anchor is totally obvious, lots of red webbing and such. providing it didn't snow anymore up there, you'll be able to follow a staircase all the way. have fun.

anyone have a good idea where one could park for a night or two around Snoqualmie Pass? i've used the Alpental lot once before (last year) but am hesitant to with this year's supposed restrictions. any suggestions?

if the weather doesn't shape up, i'll probably be there saturday and most of sunday. i'm deciding tomorrow night. if it decides to look good for at least one day, then i'll be at Smiff next weekend.

too bad it's been like 40 up there all week. it's supposed to get cold again by this weekend. i read that Cascade is falling down already. i'm still jealous though...

the cat's out of the bag now. i think you should post a tr of that one and stuff for the new version of Oregon High... good work.

you're just jealous.

Post deleted by wazzumountaineer

a female friend of mine misquoted that as "if the grass grows, eat it."

precisely.

what i'm saying is that if i might need a duplicate of one piece somewhere along the line, it would be easier/lighter to carry one of these than say 3 or 4 individual cams.

i like the idea that i could "double" my rack by adding three cams. supposedly the 3 OP cams will cover the entire Camalot range.

post a TR w/pictures when you get back!

talk to the birthday boy, Gapertimmy. jlag could probably add some stuff as well. but what more do you need...bachy, the sisters, smiff, bouldering all over, the deschutes... are you working in bend or nearby? i bet you could find cheaper housing outside of town. you could talk to your perspective employer for lodging beta too. it's a sweet place to spend the summer

that's kind of like what Gadd recommends in his new book. i don't have it here, but it somewhere in tbe training section. i think i'll finally give that a try sometime soon. time to pull down!

partner

the weather was awesome this weekend considering it's february. some snow in the shady spots. i always add at least 10 degrees to the temp as reported in Terrebonne. where were ya jlag?

chris, i talked to my boss who went down to wing ridge for the weekend. some pow in the trees, some crusty crap in the open, some instability, some super stability. Overall it sounded like they had a good time, but if you're just lookin' for powpow, i might check somewhere else. when we doin Chair?