kurthicks

the blue lines would go no problem, they could be skied all the way into june. the red lines are pretty damn steep...meaning i think you'd probably die doing them. i think that they're 5th class on broken rock... anyways, here are some pics from the blue lines (prouty glacier). my partner looks like an idiot, oh well. it's steeper than it looks.

i'll tell ya tonight. but, for everyone else...your mountain porn of the day.

i drove in the 1514 RD today (squaw creek area) up to about 5300' and it was passable in a higher clearance vehicle. a suby could do it before the snow softens up in the afternoons. take chains and a shovel though, we got stuck once we got off the packed down area. pics of the sistaz to come...

if you need size medium, they're $130 used. i wonder where this guy came up with 7 pairs? oh well. silvretta 500s on ebay

i skied into the Sisters today looking for some ice. lots of running water below 5500'. there was ice forming along some of the falls though. Hopefully this incoming cold spell will help conditions. anyone want to go to the Strawberries tuesday-wednesday?

so if you weigh less than 55kg (121 lbs), can you use a half rope as a single rope all the time? Not that I would (or fit that criteria), but it seems like it could be safe...

i'm 5.9 and 130. I just got a set of 162 Miras. I hope they work.

i'll probably be sitting on top of Hood for New Years morning. any takers?

here... not good photos or anything, but all i've got at the moment. i don't know if it's ever touched down? Across from Fall Creek Falls Fall Creek Falls

i've heard good things about this bag. and it's only $145. that is, if you can justify giving your money to them... the Sub Kilo

maybe S&S is referring to the East Face of the Matterhorn. that looks like it's a huge wall of #&*^$@ !! TG, have you climbed that one? god i need to get back down there. finals are killing me so slowly and painfully.

all of you. i've still got 3 finals to go.

Not from any personal experience, but Middle Sister. you can do either side, but the east side is more commonly done. i'm sure someone here has done it. Hood is always mellow. McGloughlin if you're down south? Bachy...

but do your mountaineering boots fit in them? mine are under the 37mm spec for click-in compatability.

has anyone used these with mountaineering boots? it looks like one could pull off the plastic on the toe bail and it'd be like step in 500s?

link?

Ryland...i'm guessing that's the place. i haven't heard any details, so you've got the most so far. see if you can get some more specifics...like length? Lambone - I'll probably go hit some Wallowa ice with TG in January when i get back to school. there's not a lot there right now. hey, want to make this post sticky? (why does that sound gross?) I think i'll probably be exporing the Central Oregon area for about 10 days this winter if anyone wants go join me. i know of some FAs to be had...if you're willing to ski for a while. keep the climbs coming

This might prove to be a futile search, but why not try? I've only done 3 of these, so all the information comes from CC.com and online hearsay. Submit any/all corrections and additions... ---------------------------------------------------------- Wallowas Hurricane Creek Drainage Note: All climbs mentioned here have huge avalanche danger Falls Creek Falls Elevation: 5,000’ Grade: WI3-5? M 4/5? Length: ~50 ft Approach: about 3/8ths of a mile from the Hurricane Creek trailhead. Follow the sign on a tree that says “Fall Creek Falls.” Couldn’t be more obvious. Alternately, continue on the main trail until you reach the creek and walk up the drainage. Time ~ 10 minutes Unnamed Falls Elevation: About 5,200’ Length: ~35’ Approach: Across the canyon from Falls Creek and up the hill. Slick Rock Canyon Falls Elevation: 5,760’ Grade: WI2 for the first steps, above unknown Length: 2 small steps (15’ each) with what looked like a longer pitch above Approach: about 3 miles from Hurricane Creek trailhead, about 150m from 2nd switchback) Time ~ 1-1.5 hours Wallowa Lake Climbs BC Creek Falls Elevation: About 5,600’ Grade: WI2-3 Length: ? Approach: From the Wallowa Lake TH, take the West Fork Wallowa River trail. At the Chief Joseph Mtn. Junction (0.3 miles), turn right. Follow the trail for 1.2 miles to the falls. Time ~ 30 minutes Boy Scout Falls Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length:? Approach: ? ---------------------------- Central & Eastern Oregon Three Fingered Jack SE Couloir Grade: 45-65 degrees (from Oregon High) Length: 800’ Season: Jan-March. Usually, by the time the trailhead melts out, the route is out of shape. Approach: From the Jack Lake TH, follow the trail to Canyon Creek Meadow. TFJ is obvious. Middle Sister Ice Hose / NE Face Direct Grade: WI 4+ Length: 2 pitches. The rest of the route was 55-60 deg neve to the top. Approach: just to the left of the NE Face route as shown in Oregon High. Paulina Falls Elevation: 6,200’ Grade: WI4-5 ? Length: 100’ Approach: From US 97, drive 6 miles north of La Pine and turn east onto Paulina Lake Rd. Drive 10 miles to the unmarked parking lot. Hike along an old jeep road at the end of the lot. After 0.4 miles, turn left (west) and hike for another .6 miles. Strawberry Lakes The Strawberry Range has excellent ice opportunities. They are spring fed and form every year. Season: ice begins forming in late October at the high elevations and is usually filled in by Christmas. Snow melt throughout the season can form twice the number of climbs but is usually ephemeral at best, thus hard to predict Strawberry Falls Grade: half a dozen routes up to ninety feet mostly pure some mixed. (wood finishes on a few!) Length: 90’ Approach: about 3 miles over pretty moderate terrain. The big issue would be getting your car to the trail head Little Provo Grade: WI4-5 Length: 1 long pitch Approach: the west of the lower lake Honey Pot Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: East of the upper lake amongst the island of trees The After Image FA: Feb. 1996, who? Elevation: ? Grade: V, WI5+ Length: 120m Approach: drive as far as the county plows, usually to the timber just below McNaughton spring. The After Image is obvious above and south of strawberry lake. Note: “This grade v wi5+ is a serious alpine endeavor. It consists of 120 meters of steep ice in the middle of a 420 meter alpine north face. The overall grade depends on timing. Later in the season when the cave pillar touches down, it’s a bitch to approach, often bad depth hoar. Early season it can be a cruise to get to it but, the overhanging climbing pumps the technical grade.” Camp at the trail head campground or find a bivvy at house rock adjacent little strawberry lake. The crux pillar on “after image” usually does not touch down until the upper sixty meters fills out. This route is best done late in the season. ----------------------------- PDX Area and Gorge Climbs: Ainsworth State Park Grade: WI 4-5 ? Length: 700’ Approach: take I-84 east from Portland to Exit 28 (Bridal Veil), and follow highway 125 for about six miles past Multnomah Falls and Ainsworth State Park entrance. Crown Jewel Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: ? Sheppard's Dell Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: ? Mt. Hood Eliot Glacier Moraine Season: October-May Approach: From the Tilly Jane Campground, hike up the Timberline Trail for a mile. Holly Falls Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: ? Illumination Rock “March Madness” Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: Walk uphill from Timberline Lodge. Ski Bowl Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: to the right of the main ski run at Ski bowl Pete’s Pile Elevation: ~3500’ Grade: WI4+ and up. Most are TR able with bolts at top. Length: Mostly 1 pitch, some 2 pitch Season: They will form when the Gorge does, and stick around a little longer. Approach: a steep 10 minute hike from pull off on Hwy35 to main crag. They are visible from the road. Note: Find a copy of "Portland Rock Climbs" by Tim Olsen ----------------------- Salt Creek Falls Area Anyone know more about it? ---------------------------------------- I can't find my copy of Washington Ice right now, so someone add the info for the gorge climbs if they get the chance. Post away....

i'll go ahead and post what i've come across in the Ice Conditions page. maybe a Mod can put a sticky on it for the season?

yea, got mine yesterday. It's pretty sweet. definately worth the $5.

What, a Xeroxed page that says pray for hell freezing over? yea, pretty much. But contrary to popular belief, there is actually ice in Oregon. I actually climbed some on Turkey Day in the Wallowas. I was kind of thinking of starting an online or pdf file of routes that come in. just from cruising the forums I've come across about 9 separate areas that have ice (well, sometimes). Maybe people don't want to give up anymore beta, but it sure would be nice if they did...

1. go to the library or gear store. 2. sit on the floor by the guidebooks. 3. look at "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" vols. 1 & 2. then check out Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide...all 3 volumes. then look at "Washington Ice". If you're in Oregon, check out "Oregon High" by Jeff Thomas. There isn't an Oregon ice guide, but it seems like it could be a decent idea. Those are just a start...

can we do it siege style with fixed ropes and a high camp? maybe we can grid bolt it too. check your PMs.

bastard.