kurthicks

Thanks for posting this

index was good on friday. nice and dry, even with some sprinkles. mmmm.

It could well be. Guess I'm not up to speed on what those sport rappelers use these days!

here's a strange ad in PDX: http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/spo/1574592212.html

The Canadian Rockies or Ouray, given the recent weather.

Probably nothing, but this one sounds fishy. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/spo/1566683565.html

I drove up the Icicle today. nothing in, except for what appeared to be a delaminated Hubba Hubba. perhaps the crowds at the base have a report. All of the rock is soaked too, so no rock climbing either. I'm with Max for an early spring.

Red Mountain at Snoqualmie?

One thing to consider in smaller diameter ropes for glacier travel is the additional stretch when doing crevasse rescue. You may not be able to use your regular prussiks on it (or learn alternate hitches) and they seem to dig further into the crevasse lip than fatter cords.

I heard this while climbing at Smith today. Let's keep the locals and non-locals aware.

nice!

How about the guy that rode The Fang in Colorado to the ground yesterday? Worth dying for? http://mountainproject.com/v/colorado__rocky_mountain_region/vail__fang_colapse/106648969

nope. the rock is shite. worse than Banks.

Here's the backstory from what I can tell given that the video was posted a month after the story below. -- ROCK CLIMBING 2 January 2009 – Fatal fall, Pierce’s Pass, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia A 24 year old Sydney man, Nick Kaczorowski died after falling from a route at Pierce’s Pass in the Grose Valley late on the morning of Friday 2nd January. The man was lead climbing the route Bunny Buckets (a multi-pitch grade 18) with a male climbing partner when the pair got off-route near the fifth pitch and began following a line of new-looking bolts to the right of the original Bunny Buckets route. This line of new-looking bolts – expansion bolts with fixed hangers – is probably a new un-finished route or “project”. Nearby climbers told the AAR that they believed the pair (and a second pair of climbers following closely) thought they were still climbing Bunny Buckets. Part way up this line of bolts the two climbers stopped and improvised a belay (using a single bolt) on a small ledge. Mr Kaczorowski started to lead the next section, clipped into the first expansion bolt and was attempting to clip the second bolt. At this time the nut and fixed hanger became detached from the expansion bolt (leaving the threaded stud remaining in the rock) and he fell past the ledge and his belayer. At this time his rope ran through and was completely cut by a sharp V-shaped notch of ironstone (a hard rock intrusion sometimes present in Blue Mountains sandstone). The rope was slightly aged, a little faded but not noticeably furry or worn looking. No longer connected to the belay the man fell more than 150m to the base of the cliff. Nearby climbers raised the alarm and helped the man’s climbing partner to safety. The man was pronounced dead by ambulance paramedics later that day. His body was recovered by police officers and the police helicopter around 11am on the 3rd January. Editor comments Expansion bolts are generally not advised for use as permanent fixtures in Blue Mountains sandstone climbs. They are prone to working loose over time, perform poorly under tension (pull out force) and the nuts usually need tightening before use. Expansion bolts are often used by those establishing a new climb as a temporary measure before more appropriate bolts are placed. Climbs in the Grose Valley are often long and have a higher level of hazards such as loose rock, difficult access and remoteness compared to other more popular cliffs in the Blue Mountains. Route finding is often difficult. LEVEL 4 REPORT

Glad to see you got out Ed.

It's been years, I remember placing a blue alien at the crux, right before I blew my onsight...

I've got a pair of Darts, with the heel spurs, that I'd let go of for $80. PM me if you want.

My fiance got me the 1973 Chouinard Catalog, but it was the note from her dad that said "welcome to the family" that really got me.

Got one for Christmas. Nice work Alan!

The Lowas another good setup; one that I've used in the past up in AK also. Throw some Intuition liners in them (fitted at your favorite local bootfitting shop), get some overboots, and you're all set. I share the same concerns that Dane has about the plastic cracking, though I haven't seen it in Lowas yet. if you're planning in skiing, I've had good success in the Spantiks as have other folks. Colin skied the Orient Express in them once when I was up there. If you can't ski well in-bounds I wouldn't even consider skiing on the big hill in softer boots and a sled. Regardless what you choose to do, it is worth spending money upfront to prevent spend more later dealing with frostbite.

good to know. thanks tyler. the only stuff i did there was on the Youtlekut(sp?) Pillars. maybe a trip to the homeland is in order.

shhhh! I don't know if it's been done...yet.

yes.

Hey Sleepy, I suggest you look into more modern synthetic double boots (those with a removeable liner) than plastics for Denali. They walk better and can stay reasonably dry if you take care of them (dry the liners in your bag at night and perhaps wear a vapor barrier sock on the lower glacier to minimize sweat). here are a few models to consider (but find a pair that fits well; this is most important): --La Sportiva Nuptse (on clearance, cheap!) --Sportiva Baruntse --Sportiva Spantik (more technical, but I've literally worn them out of the box to the top of the big Hill) you will likely want an overboot for these for use above 14k' or 17k'. Forty Below's K2 Superlight overboot is a nice, compact, and warm choice. Regardless of the model you choose, make sure your crampons really fit securely over them. Having a crampon pop off while in overboots is a pretty good way to fall/die. I'd not suggest integrated boots (those with a gaiter built in), since they are way too hot on the lower mountain and offer limited versatility unless you just want to snow slog (or if you want to be a 7 Summit chaser). They can be comfortable though since they seem to flex more than those I mentioned. Have fun!

Ugh. I met Guy a few years ago in the Rockies and was drawn to his energy immediately. I offer my condolences to his family and friends for the loss of his incredible soul.