kurthicks

The Paris sled is the standard Alaska expedition sled, although it and all other sleds are the handiwork of the devil. I've seen some modified over the years, but i keep it simple, except for sometimes adding a bungee to the pull strap to reduce the pull-slack-jerk effect. http://www.rei.com/product/609482

if you're going to be using it in AK, the glacier flight services all have them waiting for you once you hit the glacier. Check REI. they usually carry some. I saw some the other day at the True Value store on Greenwood in Seattle.

I've used the Tendon 9.4 over the last year as have a number of co-workers of mine. They have a great dry treatment, but then get fuzzy fast after that--much faster than mammut, sterling, or metolius in my experience. I've also seen more core shots in them than other rope brands that I've seen in similar usage patterns.

I just did a quick recon up the Icicle since I was out of town all week. Just a glaze of ice on the Candlesteins (aka Careno L and R) and nothing on either Rainbow route. No ice on the Corner Route, Duty Dome, the Pearly Gates, or The Smear. It's 27F and snowing lightly, but I think the rock and groundwater is just too warm from our recent weather. Go skiing.

here's more data about girth hitching slings. https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb//qc-lab-connecting-two-slings-together

call SMC. Last time i was up there, they had boxes of pins that they don't sell anymore. See if Don is still working and ask for him.

the update for you josh--even less than the last time it was asked. Looks more like spring than winter around the valley these days.

looks like fun guys. sorry i missed the trip too.

First off, there are a multitude of acceptable knots to use when tying into the end (or the middle) of the rope. Each should be chosen based on the characteristics you desire. In this case, it was Mark's desire to have a knot that is easier to untie when loaded. This leads me three commonly tied knots that are easier to untie--the rewoven overhand, the double bowline, or the figure eight with a yosemite finish (tail tuck). Secondly, the RW overhand is not an overhand on a bight since the tails come out different sides. It's more like a water knot in its construction. My point about strength only applies if you are using the loop of the knot to belay off of. Then, and only then, is it stronger in capsize strength (i.e. it rolls at a higher load) than the other knots. Think about using the EDK/flat overhand instead of the flat eight knot when setting up rappels (Tom Moyer testing data supports that). Same goes with clipping into the bowline's loop. I certainly haven't seen all the testing data that I want to see on knots, so I am not an expert as to exact numbers. The RW overhand is in the AMGA/ACMG Manual as a valid tie in knot and, as a full-time practitioner, I trust that resource. Regardless of the knot you use, if you're pulling a rope to failure, you have bigger problems! I've been told that one's hips and internal organs implode around 12kn (which happens to the the highest allowable impact force in UIAA testing), so you're going to break yourself before you break your tie in knot. It's all just fun internet debate.

I use the rewoven overhand knot, which requires no backup. quick and easy to tie. easy to untie after whipping on it. It also is a stronger knot than the fig-8 or bowline if using your tie in loop as a belay loop (say on a BD Bod that doesn't have a belay loop) as it capsizes less readily.

it's true, it does depend on the alpha value (if i can dig back into my stats class in the back of my brain). enough discussion about it though... you'll only break them if they're loaded over an edge or have an open gate, if used in a climbing application.

but they do, if you remember statistics! "3 Sigma testing method results in a rated strength that is three standard deviations lower than the average value found during testing"

BD Quality Control 3 SIGMA ISO 9001 To rate our climbing gear with a meticulous degree of accuracy, Black Diamond uses a rigorous, best-in-the-industry rating standard called Three Sigma. By batch testing our climbing equipment following 3 Sigma methodologies, we can ensure that there is a 99.87% probability that the strength of any item taken from the same batch will be above the rating. And though the rigorous 3 Sigma testing method results in a rated strength that is three standard deviations lower than the average value found during testing, we feel climbing hardware requires testing with an absolutely consistent and conservative approach to ensure the high levels of quality you have come to expect from Black Diamond.

I'll throw my last two cents in on this. The Cotter-Bebie is a great route on a great peak that doesn't have very much published beta for it (online or in print), hence the trip report. I decided to give it a rating since it would help provide information for those interested in the climb and, I hope, to psych up those who want to give it a try. It's a worthwhile route up a fantastic mountain regardless of whatever it's rated.

Triple Couloirs is a grade 3, but the Cotter-Bebie is not.

Thanks everyone. We really enjoyed the route and climbing and wanted to share it with the cc.com crew. Wayne - the approach is the standard 9 or so miles from the bottom of the road. we booted up the road, then snowshoed to the lake in a mellow 4.5 hours. The road is skiable, but no where near driveable even though there's not much snow on the ground.

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Cotter-Bebie Date: 1/26/2011 Trip Report: Given that the mid-winter's high pressure had settled in and I heard that snow conditions in the Stuart Range were great, my friend Rodney and I climbed the elusive Cotter-Bebie route on the NW Face of Dragontail yesterday. I've been wanting to climb this route for many years, having peered down into it from Backbone and Serpentine a number of times. We found the route to be in fantastic shape overall, except for half of one pitch to the right of the Fin (requiring scary aid moves off ice tools). Gear was a challenge to find at times and we had to simulclimb on some serious terrain in order to find decent protection and anchors. The route is excellent and I highly recommend it. We counted 20 roped pitches (though we simuled about 8 of them), and would rate the route (as we did it) in its current condition grade IV, WI4, 5.7, A2. We were a bit confused as to where the route finishes. According to Beckey (CAG, v1, p 285), we followed the Northwest Face route. Washington Ice says to finish in the corner to the right of the Fin, but that wasn't reasonable given the snow conditions. The gully we took proved to be the technical crux of the climb. I would consider finishing the route via the Third Couloir (by turning left at the Fin, and dropping onto the Gerber-Sink, then up into the Third Couloir) for a faster and more reasonable adventure. The route took us about 12 hours on the face, about three of which were spent on the aforementioned aid pitch and cornice chopping. Photos: The Cotter-Bebie as marked on a John Scurlock photo. The north face of Dragontail. Leading off on pitch 1. Rodney on pitch 2. Pitch 4 is the visible ice above. Pitch 6 traverse left to find an anchor. Backbone Ridge in the background. Looking up the mixed corner on pitch 7. Following pitch 7. Traversing below the Fin. Rodney at the right side of the Fin. We took the snowy gully on the right to join Serpentine Arete. Sorry, but no photos of the crux since I had the camera and it was getting dark. BTW, every other route in the basin looks good-to-go. Gear Notes: 8 screws, set of stoppers, 2 bugaboos, .5-3" camalots, 4" hex, 10 slings. 2 tools. I would recommend two ropes in case of retreat, although we only took one. Approach Notes: Excellent packed trail all the way to the lake. Crampons on from camp-to-camp.

In addition to what they said, find something that fits comfortably underneath your backpack, so it doesn't make your hips sore or rub them raw. and for the BD Bod...get the BD Couloir. half the weight and all the functionality and way more comfortable under a pack's waist belt.

just to clarify on bucketz post: nothing in below 6000'. the high alpine is where to be right now.

only gonna get better from now on.

I've got a lightly used pair of new BD Fusions with about 10 pitches on them. scratches on the shafts and the picks. I'd like to trade them straight up for a pair of nomics in decent shape. PM me if interested.

it was standing last sunday after copious amounts of rain. looked blue and plastic, with all the snow melted off it. haven't seen it this week.

nice john. that's what I would have done too had I not been on the Wet(ter) side today.

The manufacturer has specifications that you should follow based on the amount of usage and age of the rope. follow those. oh yea -- a modern single rated climbing rope that passes visual and physical inspection has never failed due to a climbing fall. failed due to cutting, yes. failed due to external damage such as acid, yes. but pulled to failure, nope.

Widows Tears in the Valley. supposedly melted out already.