kurthicks

glad to see someone else climbing this thing! nice work. Interesting choice on the descent route. How steep was it? Our walk off the back side was pretty casual and took about as long from my notes (4 hours from summit to our camp near the red ledges).

It depends on the medium that you're rapping. On snow and ice routes I use a 5mm tag line, set up so the lead line takes all the weight. On steep rock where weight is a concern, I go with a 7mm static. A good balance for me for alpine or cragging is a single twin or half rope, since they stretch similarly to your lead line--which is nice if the rappel is a "60m" rope stretcher (also they can be doubled and used if your lead rope gets chopped). Without the stretch of the tag line sometimes you don't get there. it all depends on your usage...

how much is left until we hit the magic $300,000 goal? ----- Contact Joe Sambataro Phone: (303) 545-6772 E-mail: joe@accessfund.org FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Washington Climbers Coalition pays off Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign loan for Index, returning funds to the revolving loan program Boulder, CO, July 9, 2010 -- The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps U.S. climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, announced today that the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) has paid back its loan to the Access Fund for the option agreement on Lower Index Town Wall in Washington. The loan was administered under the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign (AFLCC). In the spring of 2009, the Access Fund loaned the WCC $15,000 to secure an 18-month option agreement to protect the Lower Index Town Wall and surrounding crags from a quarrying operation. The option agreement protected the area while the WCC worked to raise the $300,000 needed to purchase and steward the 20-acre tract of land. Over the last year and a half, climbers from all over the nation worked together to raise the funds to purchase the Lower Index Town Wall—fundraising through bouldering competitions, slideshows, and major donor requests. “The community response has been incredible,” says Jonah Harrison of the WCC. “The challenge with Index was not, as we had originally thought, getting people together to work and donate to the cause. It was how to channel all the talent, enthusiasm, and funds people offered.” We are happy to report that WCC has nearly reached its fundraising goal and is well positioned to purchase the property before the December 31, 2010 deadline. The WCC submitted its final loan repayment to the Access Fund on June 22, 2010—returning the original $15,000 to the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign where it will be loaned back out to save other climbing areas. “It has been exciting to work so closely with the WCC and see the AFLCC’s first loan fully revolve back into the fund,” states the Access Fund’s Joe Sambataro. The WCC is still working to reassign the land to a climber friendly public owner (such as Washington State Parks or the County), to secure access across the railroad tracks, and to find a suitable location for parking improvements and toilet facilities. With each step, the WCC is closer to securing permanent access for future generations of climbers. About the Access Fund Founded in 1991, the Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 2.3 million climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: climbing management policy, stewardship and conservation, local support and mobilization, land acquisition and protection, and education. For more information, visit www.accessfund.org.

those ropes are in a butterfly coil with a mountaineer tie-off. perhaps the best way for carrying on a pack. try it sometime.

a friend (in a party of three) was on the Boving route. was that them?

nepal evos. in fact, i find that guides often get by with lighter boots than clients since guides often do a better job of keeping their boots dry during multi-day trips. hence the single/double boot conundrum.

from the article: ""I was a little sloppy out of the blocks, but I was able to hold on," [Dix] added."

i hope that was in more than one anchor! bummer.

the traverse was my favorite pitch, although some of the rime had melted by the time we got there. The pitch had some 80+ degree snow, some hand jams, and lots of hooking. at one point I was jamming with one hand, camming a tool in the other, and stemming between snow and rock nubbins. stellar!

go up the one with the huge spraypainted arrow pointing towards it. seriously.

as of last week, there was running water at the 6400' bench campsite. walk a few minutes climber's left (east) to find a stream. clean and parasite free for us!

yep. a fun, moderate day, that can be bailed at any time. i remember the second rap of the NF of concord to be from a somewhat sketchy anchor. take a spare medium to large stopper to add to it.

some guide services require plastics all summer. interesting, but true.

The Liberty Bell Group traverse. Start on the Beckey route of Liberty Bell, then onto the north face (or cave route) on concord, the north face of lexington, the chockstone on n.e.w.s., and finish up on the south arete or SW buttress of south early.

M-easy. snowy and cold rock that is 5.6 in the summer.

buy what fits.

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir Date: 7/6/2010 Trip Report: Kyle Flick and I climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir yesterday car-to-car. It was the first time for each of us since 2005. As expected from the recent TR, we found the route to be in great condition for this late in the season. The couloir itself had a fair bit of ice and neve-ish snow, after approaching over a breakable crust near the 'schrund. The ridge was rimey and fun mixed action. The route will probably be out of condition really soon due to the increasing temps, but it was cool in the shade and may last another week or so. pictures can do the rest: Kyle clears the Stuart 'schrund looking up the couloir taking it to the ridge on the West Ridge on the north side Pulling the crux on the last pitch The Sherpa 'schrund. outta here! Gear Notes: .3 camalot, .5 camalot, #1 trango max cam, 6 stoppers, 1x 16cm screw, 25m 8.1mm rope. bootied two pickets on the Sherpa, but we caught the owners on the trail and gave 'em back. Approach Notes: in via Stuart Lake Trail, out via mountaineer Creek

i just got back from a jaunt in the Stuart Range. the mosquitos are out in force. bring some bug juice or plan on moving non-stop.

partner found.

maybe a long 60m like a mammut. i've done the route 4 times this year alone and haven't had a 60m get me there one time.

i could be up for the complete NR on monday-tuesday. i've gotta be in wenatchee tuesday night at 11:30.

nope. need a 70m on february buttress last time I climbed it.

I've got a couple days off, good weather, and no partner. I'd like to get on some alpine rock in the Stuart Range. shoot me an email. kurt.hicks@gmailDOTcom

FYI we found an 18" windslab on the Roman Wall on Wednesday. it probably baked out by now in the sun, but just a heads up.

cool. i had a friend get 'lanched in that couloir last year when the cornice dropped. looks fun.