kurthicks

FYI the iPods that have an air bearing (all of the new ones) don't usually work above 14K. take something with flash memory to be cranking the tunes out on summit day.

1. walk directly between the two. scramble up the west side of the S ridge of North Sister. easy until the "terrible traverse". 2. Go up the N. Ridge from below the Thayer Glacier. walk/scramble the ridge and gullies towards the standard chute used for the S. ridge ascent. don't die on the horrid, loose rock (see below, taken from ~9200' on the north ridge of N. Sis) Edit: Doing this in winter will easily add 12 miles or more of road walking/skiing. you'd better be skiing if you're planning on doing this in the winter. it's the only way it'd be close to feasible during the winter...

white, aerated, and steeper than usual.

both were sieged last weekend from what i was told in an email. the NEB waterfall was "spicy". NF crux is getting over the glide crack.

actually, I've been told it's the same, just colder... supposedly it goes free...

it's not that hard guys. just go do it.

I went up there today. The Kiddie Cliff area still has top ropeable ice on it. the Source Lake Line may still go; definitely on TR. Chair is looking good, with the NF being very similar to the photos posted a while back. The waterfall on the NEB is very white, so I didn't go up to have a look. The Tooth NE slab isn't looking good and I heard it was very scratchy as of Tuesday. Skiing conditions suck, but travel is fine on snowshoes. I skied for a while, then managed to walk w/o flotation on old tracks without postholing before sunrise. Things get really soft when the sun hits--think knee/hip deep in spots. anything south facing is out.

the slider is very similar, but not the same, as the trigger with the "trigger" cut off...

on the T-F traverse a few years ago. We hiked into Boston Basin in pouring rain, expecting a clearing that afternoon. we then ditched bivy gear in the basin, planning on just doing it in a day. climb Torment and the sun comes out. Partner pulls off a large block on the ridge traverse near the prominent spire in the middle, resulting in a ~15' fall and a gash down to the bone just below his knee. A long series of 25M raps off single piece anchors took us down to the glacier. Hiked out with a nearly dead headlamp, in the rain again. Drove to Sedro-Wolley and he got 14 stitches. I drove home, nearly falling asleep a few times in the 20 miles back to bellingham, getting back 26 hours after leaving.

did you lead it?

how were snow conditions up there Panos?

how'd the Cotter-Bebie route look? (between Backbone & Serpentine)

**Not an exhaustive list, but plenty to get you started** BC Alpine Select, McLane West Coast Ice, Serl Island Alpine, Serl? Squamish Select or Climber's Guide to Squamish Washington Selected Climbs in the Cascades I & II, Nelson Sky Valley Rock, Cramer Leavenworth Rock, Kramer Washington Ice, Martin/Krawarik Cascade Alpine Guide 1-3, Beckey Classic Climbs in the Cascades, Kearney Oregon Oregon High, Thomas Climber's Guide to Smith Rocks Trout Creek

nice to meet you this weekend Brandon. Yesterday was as good as it gets at Erie...

I can do Friday Joe. let me know if you're interested.

excellent points Tvash. The NZ article is good for the OP to read. the 'ridiculous'-ness to me is that new climbers should be exposed to and practice more modern anchoring solutions prior to using dead twigs from alpine krumholtz to anchor their fallen brethren.

I think that those are ridiculous solutions Tvash. When I teach crevasse rescue, the first rule is to utilize proper travel techniques to avoid falling in--especially falling in to the point where an anchor is necessary for hauling or prussiking. Keep the rope perpendicular to crevasses as much as possible, keep slack to a minimum, and communicate as a team when crossing dubious slots. Let's say that unanticipated crevasse fall is likely to occur (as Tvash mentioned) on the descent due to warming conditions and weakened snow bridges (or in shallow snowpacks or any number of other reasons, but for the Cascades, let's go with this). With soft snow being our context here, it is quite easy to hold the victim's weight by kicking your feet in securely after arresting the fall. So long as you keep your hips close to the snow, it is relatively easy to raise your torso to dig a T-slot (for an axe or picket) or place a vertical picket (which probably won't hold much due to the weak snow conditions that caused the fall in the first place). Flukes are easier to place when face down in self-arrest. Then all you have to do is attach the rope to the anchor to escape the system; use a friction hitch (prussik, etc), Mariner, Munter Mule, Garda, etc. Then, choose whichever haul system you like. There are many many more issues to think about--this is not an exhaustive review of crevasse rescue. Regardless, the trick is to practice. Do it safely--Use a second rope to tie your partner to a separate anchor or have them rappel into the crevasse, then weight you...so you both don't take the plunge. My typical glacier travel equipment is (assuming we're not kiwi coiled): 1 short prussik (a la autoblock) 1 leg prussik or cordelette 2 lockers 3 non-lockers 1 picket w/sling or fluke on each end of the rope Kurt

My phone is fits your #1 & 2 requests. It's durable (thus heavy), but does not perform well in terms of reception or battery life (if you take the batteries out when not in use, however, it's pretty good). Basically, it sucks but they will try to sell it to you for your 'outdoor lifestyle'. It's a Casio/Verizon G'Zone. there is now a smaller model.

Macdonald-Mather on Mt. Baker? This was done in 1957 and goes up between the Coleman HW and the North Ridge...under all those seracs.

I bet it was overrun from outfitting the military.

I'd love to, but i'm in Bellingham and climbing locally this w/e. Tell him hi for me (seriously). Give pup_on_the_mountain (Bala) a shout.

repeat as necessary

actually, it started this afternoon. 30-50% off.

Unless it was Jamin

Banff/Canmore/Parkway TR sites that require no leading and have no avalanche hazard: Haffner Creek & Marble Canyon (Tokkum Pole) Canmore Junkyards Balfour Wall Tangle Creek