kurthicks

It's always possible to cross this stream. unfortunately, it requires taking the climber's trail up to near Heliotrope and traversing at ~6000', then dropping back down to the trail once across. I did set up a tyrolean across it once, but it required rappelling the creek and then tensioning the rope. A permanent tyrolean would be appreciated, but not within USFS regulations. edit: i misread and thought you mean the last crossing--which can look like this:

This has probably occurred to you already, but you said that your partner doesn't have much experience. I'd start with easier rappels, move onto steep terrain, move into raps that have difficult starts, then do some free hanging rappels once she has more experience. I've not been there, but I'd guess that Peshastin has some that could be arranged.

It's cosmetic and happens to all crampons. Even coated stainless steel crampons will rust over time if you scratch through the stainless layer. You've got nothing to worry about structurally. I doubt it would be covered under a warranty.

Cilo45 for sure. it packs down smaller than the Khamsin for technical climbing and is lighter.

i wouldn't go up there unprepared for sure. 'tis a dangerous time to be on the glaciers with new snow obscuring slots. it looks like the second ice step isn't ready yet anyways, but i remember thinking that the second step can be bypassed on the right on easy looking choss.

I was on the NF of shuksan about a month ago. lots of rockfall then, but i bet since the temps have dropped and there's been some snow that the rockfall will not be as much of an issue. the ice will be discontinuous. The Satan's Sidewalk route (search TRs here) might be forming soon too... The Pencil Thin Roman Mustache on Baker might be coming in soon. Don't forget about Colfax's Cosley-Houston either. The Elliot HW on Hood is supposed to be good this time of year and the road just reopened. I bet the north side of Adams (lava HW, Stormy Monday Couloir, etc) would be fun and interesting.

that looks pretty good for Oregon! nice work guys!

check your PMs.

last time i checked, modern BD picks work perfectly well on old BD tools... if that changes your predicament, I'd consider just getting new picks.

looks great John. way to keep the stoke! Maybe I can make it next year.

i was on it about a month ago. pretty icy. one large slot about halfway up the glacier; we went climber's right around it. i'd take screws and not pickets if you're roping up.

FYI: bivying isn't technically allowed in that area... great route though, eh?

yep, it goes with a few raps. that way you don't have to take an axe or crampons...

Anyone going cragging this weekend in Leavenworth and have room for me and a couple duffel bags on your way back to the seattle area? Ideally it would be leaving Leavenworth on Monday morning since I have a flight monday night from SeaTac. shoot me a PM. Kurt

the north face was strafed by rockfall all day monday and tuesday. no go in my opinion.

The Gigi is far superior IMO for use belaying up a follower (or two at once) due to it's slightly wider slots which translates into less friction, thus fatigue on the elbows, when pulling in rope. Sure, it doesn't belay a leader very well, but it rappels more smoothly than the Reverso 3 or ATC-Guide. If you find yourself belaying followers more than belaying a leader (e.g. you're the ropegun most of the time) then the GiGi is for you. Take the ATC-Guide for crag routes or when you want to get elbow tendonitis.

sorry I missed this Darin. Off to Squishy for me.

FYI all: I saw the 1/2" webbing at Der Sportsman in Der Town yesterday.

Wayne--the line wasn't totally spontaneous. We were both looking to get into a new place for us and see new terrain... but it came about after a quick look at green beckey. The AAJ had no reference to the feature being climbed either. We just went in for the route as a super mellow three day trip. The ridge to the left with the pinnacles looks good from a far but is junk and rubble covered from our vantage point. The east ridge looks like a fun one though. Unfortunately no hot tubs were poached on our climb...

Trip: Mt. Formidable - Direct NE Buttress (FA), III+, 5.9 Hicks/McBrian Date: 7/22/2009 Trip Report: On June 22, 2009 Forest McBrian and I climbed the complete NE Buttress of Mt. Formidable. This feature splits the Middle Cascade Glacier from the Formidable Glacier on the mountain’s northeast aspect. From our amazing bivy near the Middle Cascade Glacier along the Ptarmigan Traverse, we descended onto the Middle Cascade then climbed 40 degree snow to the toe of the buttress and searched for a suitable moat crossing. This dictated our starting point—at the left edge of a sidewalk/ramp system, close to a small, white crystalline band. From here, we climbed about 1000’ of new terrain, up to 5.9, before intersecting the 1962 route near the top of the buttress. The technical crux consisted of a tricky move out of a dihedral on the second pitch. Numerous pitches of less technical, but decidedly alpine terrain (a.k.a. steep, loose, nearly impossible to protect, fifth class heather) led to a snowpatch at mid-height. A couple more technical pitches to 5.8 led to the phenomenal snow arête that caps the buttress. We then climbed up and over the East Ridge pyramid that sits at the head of the Formidable Glacier (though this can be bypassed easily), probably making the second ascent of that feature (Martin Volken did the full East Ridge a few years ago). Incredibly fun and exposed ridge traversing led from the right-hand col to the true summit. Descent was made by cutting across the south face, generally traversing southeast towards the head of Flat Creek (exposed class 4/5 in spots, no rappels needed); then following the Ptarmigan Traverse route northward to the Spider-Formidable Col and back down the Middle Cascade Glacier. Our roundtrip was fifteen hours, eleven of which were spent on ascent. All things considered, our route is similar to the NE Buttress (1957) of nearby Johannesburg except that it is not guarded by 2000’+ of heinous bushwacking and the rock quality is better on Formidable. The exposed, but safe position on the buttress crest between two very active glaciers gives the route its appeal. Forest on the opening pitch Pitch 3 Snow Arete Upper East Ridge The NE Buttress Mt. Formidable Direct NE Buttress III+, 5.9 Kurt Hicks, Forest McBrian July 22, 2009 Gear Notes: A single rack to 3”; small cams most useful. One axe and crampons per person if snow conditions are firm. We placed one Lost Arrow, but other options may exist. Approach Notes: Hike to Cascade Pass then follow the Ptarmigan Traverse until able to descend down to the base of the NE Buttress.

looks like fun, but isn't that the NW rib? Given that the hanging glacier looks to be on your left and the white salmon on the right? the NE Rib is to the climbers left of the North Face.

i'll take it if Tomtom doesn't.

leave your boots, axe, pons in the car. it's dry and dusty from what I saw the other day.

I too just got an iPhone and am starting a little list of where it works. So far it's only been out on a few trips. Baker -- No, but my old digital verizon phone does get service from near Sandy Camp on the Easton side. Shuksan -- Yes, except at the bottom of the Sulphide. WA Pass -- yea right I get service up to Marblemount on Hwy 20 just like my old phone.

I had a client "forget" to clean some gear (#1 and #2 Camalots with wiregates on them) on Piasano Pinnacle up at WA Pass. Beers and good karma if someone finds them and gets it back to me. Cheers, Kurt