billcoe

Sorry that I can't answer your question. Doesn't the UIAA mandate that the ends MUST be marked with a 1 (single) or a 1/2 (twin or doubles) or a 00 - (twins only)? Your rope should have tape on the ends with one of those marks. I'd like to say that you should use it as directed, but we almost dropped one of the doubles on Epinephrine (so climbing with a sole 7.8mm) in Vegas last week. - being lazy and wanting light. Wasn't planning on falling though. Can always e-bay them, probably sell for more than you paid. opps, better answers have appeared above since I started typing.

Out there on the edge baby! Great stuff!

Do you even climb?

You don't help a brother climber(s) in need. Thanks for the climbing pic Chirp!

Bump for sweet sweet granite wall pictures. Got more Pink?

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Not true Ron, but totally agree that peoples beef should be with the large scale industrialization of the killing of whales which both countries do. Factory ships and mass wide scale harvesting of whales for strictly commercial reasons (only for makin a buck or a Yen) is a massive horror story which Ericbs post shows times 100, and the flip side of this dark coin for sure. Thank you all for the salient points and interesting discourse on this subject which run throughout the thread. I don't think that there is a right answer, and no sane human likes to see any animal suffer. Now that the coast guard let this animal sink, I suppose the 5 dudes will either go to court to get the gov't off their ass permanently, or just apply to kill another. Neither course of action is as good as if the Coast Guard had just left them alone to begin with, mabye taken their names and left them alone. I hope it doesn't suffer and needlessly die like this animal obviously did. Meantime, while this furur swirls, Japan is heading out to slaughter some Humpbacks, Minkes and Fin whales. News link Full story:"Japan whaling fleet heads for hunt that will include humpbacks for first time in decades The Associated Press Published: November 17, 2007 E-Mail Article Listen to Article Printer-Friendly 3-Column Format Translate Share Article Text Size SHIMONOSEKI, Japan: A Japanese whaling fleet left port Sunday on a hunt that will include humpbacks — a favorite among whale-watchers — for the first time in decades. The vessels will head to waters off Antarctica despite a potential high-seas showdown with environmental groups and a deadly fire in February that crippled the mother ship and triggered strong protests over a potential oil spill. Four ships including the 8,044-ton mother ship Nisshin Maru left the wharf in the southern port of Shimonoseki after a departure ceremony attended by fisheries officials. Two observation ships had left northern Japan on Wednesday to accompany the fleet. The whalers plan to capture up to 50 humpbacks in what is believed to be the first large-scale hunt for the species since a 1963 moratorium put the giant marine mammals under international protection. The mission also aims to take as many as 935 minke whales and up to 50 fin whales in what Japan's Fisheries Agency says its largest-ever scientific whale hunt in the South Pacific. The expedition is expected to last through April. Today in Asia - Pacific Musharraf ignores U.S. pressure to lift emergency in Pakistan Realigning the yuan: Resistance from G-20 Cyclone Sidr wreaks havoc in Bangladesh Japan's annual research whale hunt is permitted by the International Whaling Commission, or IWC, but anti-whaling activists call it a cover-up for a commercial hunt. Japan, a major commercial whaling nation before a comprehensive ban in 1986, has killed almost 10,500 mostly minke and Brydes whales under a research permit issued by the IWC — and its catch is growing. This season's target of up to 1,035 whales is more than double the number the country hunted a decade ago. Enraged anti-whaling activists have pledged to chase Japan's whalers to the Antarctic. "The Japanese government's scientific whaling program is a sham," said Karli Thomas, expedition leader aboard the Greenpeace boat Esperanza, which is waiting outside Japanese territorial waters to confront the fleet. "Whaling has no place in Antarctica — it's a place of peace and science, and this is not science," she said. Japan's plans to resume hunts of the famed humpback have also raised furor among some other Asia-Pacific countries. In Australia, newspapers regularly run stories with headlines like "Help stop murder on the high seas." Politicians there have promised to tackle whaling through diplomacy. An Australian opposition Labor Party executive, Robert McClelland, said last week that military aircraft will monitor Japanese whalers in the Southern Ocean if the party wins upcoming elections. Japan argues that whaling is a national tradition that dates back to the early 1600s, and has pushed unsuccessfully at the IWC to reverse the 1986 commercial whaling moratorium. Scientists say humpback whales are intelligent creatures that communicate through lengthy "songs." Although they grow up to 15 meters (48 feet) long and weigh as much as 40 tons, they are acrobatic, often throwing themselves out of the water, swimming on their backs with both flippers in the air or slapping the water with their tails. Humpbacks — which feed, mate and give birth near shore — fell prey to early whalers, who depleted the global population to just 1,200 by some estimates before the 1963 moratorium. Since then, only Greenland and the Caribbean nation of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines have been allowed to catch humpbacks under an IWC aboriginal subsistence program. Each caught one humpback last year, according to the commission. The American Cetacean Society estimates the humpback population has recovered to about 30,000-40,000 — about a third of the number before modern whaling. The species is listed as "vulnerable" by the World Conservation Union. Japanese fisheries officials insist that the population has returned to a sustainable level. "Humpback whales in our research area are rapidly recovering," said Hideki Moronuki, the Fisheries Agency's whaling chief. "Taking 50 humpbacks from a population of tens of thousands will have no significant impact whatsoever." Killing whales lets marine biologists study their internal organs for clues to reproductive and eating habits, Japanese officials say. Japan also conducts non-lethal research, which accounts for half of its annual whaling budget of about 1 billion yen (US$9 million; €6 million), Moronuki said. Meat from Japan's scientific catch is sold commercially, triggering criticism that the research is a pretext for keeping its whaling industry alive. Some also criticize Japan's hunting methods, saying they are unnecessarily cruel."

I'm just back from Vegas. I can say if they diverted my flight because of an amorous couple I'd be pissed! Shit, just give them 10 min in the bathroom alone and they'll head back to their seats, calm and relaxed and STFU. Jeese, why does every little thing have to be elevated into a huge production anymore? " By KOMO Staff & News Services LAS VEGAS -- A plane headed for Las Vegas from Seattle was diverted to Portland on Thursday afternoon after at least one passenger said a couple tried to join the "mile high club." US Airways Flight 1473 left Seattle at 2:58 p.m., but a pair of unruly passengers caused it to be diverted and head for Portland International Airport. The flight landed in Portland at 5 p.m. and a spokeswoman for US Airways said two people were escorted off the plane after a dispute with flight attendants. A passenger said the couple was fooling around and decided to go into the bathroom. "The people in the aisle, across the aisle from us were messing around in their seat and then they decided to go to the bathroom and fool around," said passenger Jessica Smith. "And then they threatened the flight attendant." US Airways avoided confirming that the couple was fooling around, but did say they were arguing with the crew. Smith said at first, she was mad their flight was going to be diverted. "I was a little irked but I think everybody was. When, well especially when we realized what it was for," she said. An airport spokesperson said the passengers were neither cited nor arrested, but they were left in Portland. The plane continued on to Las Vegas. "

I made the mistake of being in Red Rocks last year on Thanskgiving. Turns out my wife thinks that Thanksgiving is for family time, and since she's got 12 of MY relatives over this year intending to cook for them.....ahhh, well, you can see that picture is hung crooked. Like to see some pics of the creek when you get back eh, maybe live vicariously and get some winter rainy day stoke?

Sorry Muff, wasn't feeling gregarious and wanted to just be alone. Did say hi to Joseph and the 2 pretty ladies he was with before I booked out right after the service. I would have said hi had I seen you. Here's my TR. Jim Anglins memorial

I'm fine with it. Whale tastes good, is healthy, lean and cheap protein for these folks. Futhermore, it is a traditional way for them to bond and share a common concern. No problem here, sounds like the dudes weren't playing by OUR rules, that and a bunch of overpaid government workers stepped in and allowed it to be wasted.

Yes Doug: what 'Boner said. You be holdin out or drinkin? I'm drinkin. Toast to Jim Anglin, still can't belive he's gone. It's fuc*ed up. I'll show you mine if you show me yours. Well, except Ujhan has the pictures. (red rocks blah blah)

I'm leaving in a bit, see you there.

Congrats! BTW, how did we make it this far without seeing Avitrips name. He and Ben (Beaconben on this site) were in Yos last spring and Ben has extreme high praise for him, which is saying something.

Thanks for the info all. How much weight did you lose Jon? BTW, that book John F recommended is on the way to my house. You can borrow it Muff. I was in Red rocks couple of days ago and was suffering, need to lose the man-boobs but I've never "dieted" before. I'll try the tnt thing too and see how the winter goes.

Heres hopin the MF BASTARD dies of an overdose and when the cops show up to haul the stinking maggot infested body away they see your stuff and you get it all back. Good luck.

Excluding myself, probably not. I've met many on the list's up there and agree to all of them. I assume were talkin about folks we haven't met, cause I've met lots more than on the list who are great folks. I will say that I've only bumped into Iain a couple of times accidentally (don't see him on anyones list) and have yet to tie in with him, but I think he'd be on the list near the top for me if you're talkin about people you don't really know that you'd like to tie in with. Dudes got serious wit. I'd add Fairweather and pope too. As far as serious partners- thats a whole 'nother list, lots shorter.

That attitude is SOOOO 2006 man.

SAYS "Then, in November, he linked the extended track with the sit start he had done in 2006 to create a pitch that has about 110 feet of mostly horizontal roof climbing. " Hmmmmmmm SOUNDS LIKE 110'. PRETTY TALL FOR A BOULDER PROBLEM.

Dammit tim, I'm sitting in a starbucks in Veags and think I just pissed on myself from fear reading that story. Bastard! Even after going up the spur, coming down and picking the spot can be hard even when you have your own tracks. counterintuitive. Damn, glad you got back dudes!

Pretty exciting, bold and interesting stuff Joseph. Defineatly setting a standard and raising the bar a bit. Lovin it! Like to see some other folks get on this one and see what their thoughts are. BTW, if you are climbing 5.9, if it was me, I'd pass on doing the route till you are @ doing 5.10's and take Josephs advice and belay from the higher spot @ 30 feet up from the rhythm method anchors (medium cam fits there next to the bolt) as you'll be straightening out the bend on the rope if the leader falls, and it's a pretty sharp edge. Joseph was climbing with 2 full on lead ropes as a just in case mode of a rope failure through a cut from a fall or a rock. The rocks are gone but the roof is still there. But thats me and I'm a puss. Ujahn's leaving Vegas today so I'm gonna be transitioning to full on buffet eating, liquer drinkin, money loosing fool mode and not climb any more, which is a good thing as I feel all torn up. I'm blaming Epinephrine for that and hanging with a guy 20 years my junior who works physically for a living. That and a 2 month lay off (except for following JH here like maybe twice and a gym session while my arm tried to heal) Like to get to Jims memorial just to touchbase with all of use that are still living, whos going? Or is there a place-thread for that topic elsewhere?

I am in vegas now, and it's the strangest thing in that I was thinking of Jim when Ujahn and I were coming down from dream of wild turkeys just yesterday, which I think I remember Jim saying was his fav climb in the world. I was thinking of several related Jim things as well including the pics he'd posted of his last red rocks trip where my poor memory was trying to remember if he'd repeated turkeys with Joanne Uriste, the fa of that route. I couldn't remember the route, but I remember the sparkle in Jims eye which the camera captured. Since Jim isn't hardly ever in my thoughts, I was shocked and surprised on the return trip to town from Turkeys to see several phone messages. (everyone who knows me knows I never listen to them so they don't typically leave them and I don't hardly ever get them) As I'm also down here for business, I assumed it was a crisis at work. This was shocking as I have a fully trained group who are conditioned to handle every extingency, so that I can go to ...say...Nepal, for 4 weeks and not carry a sat phone. It was my friends leaving the message that Jim has died. My stomach tightened up, and I was in shocked disbelief. Jim was the kind of person that if we could all be a bit more like, the world would be a better place. His passing leaves a void in the world and a sadness in my heart. It's nice to see Josephs pic of him on Beacon, it brought back a memory of Joseph, Jim and I doing Young warriors, and although Jim had been climbing out there a lot that spring, he hadn't ever done that route. Jim led the long 3rd pitch and sure enough got off route, despite our earlier efforts to describe that wandering 3rd pitch to him. His eyes were twinkling and he was fairly humored when we climbed up to see him looking exactly like a treed raccoon way the hell up the wrong direction belaying from an off route slab and pointed out the errors of his ways. Goodbye Jim, my turn will come soon enough, but I'm sad you can't be here with us and checked out early. It is a reminder to all of us to treat each other just a bit better, to laugh at our fellow mans folies instead of yelling and displaying anger, to help out a soul who needs it, and remember that our end is all too near, sometimes shockingly so. Thanks for the phone messages guys.

HA HA HA HA ! LOVE THAT STUFF! GREAT TR AND PICS TOO, Thanks for sharing it! BTW, I never remembered that route having some @#XX! free moves in the F#@XX! middle of it, so Imade the mistake of taking my ratty-assed street shoes and in the bitter cold/30 knot winds early last spring HAD TO belay Ujahn up to make those moves. (He had his rock shoes on). I was feeling very old and tired. The good news is that the lad was as tired and sore as I was afterwards. PS, Andrew Tryznka is getting that first pitch done in 20 min. He timed me (wasn't shooting for speed and wasn't uber organized ) at 30 min.

Cultural realtivism aside, don't we as Americans have a responsibility to observe our host countries sensibilities? ie, Muslims do not drink and many feel it is a slap in the face if you do? Just asking.

Man, then all you'd need is an old porcelain toilet to plant some flowers in and a blue tarp to live under and you'd be set for life.