billcoe

pm sent for Mountain Hardwear Offwidth Jacket: paid

Wrong size bootprints I'll bet!

Nice call on the cottonseed oil Bug: that's in fact why I try to let most of it drip off each oyster and burn the rest. I had heard that when any processed food says "may contain soybean, cottonseed and/or canola oil", what that is saying is that the processor will be buying whatever is cheapest on the spot market at that time. As cottonseed is a scrap by-product of getting cotton, they spray the holy crap out of the cotton to kill boll weevils and other nasties, and no one cares too much about it as they don't perceive it as a food crop. So one does NOT want to be ingesting much of that kind of stuff at all. I like the protein and the flavor though. On the snowcave or tent oyster farts front though: truthfully, is it just me who likes that smell? Don't know about sardine smell. In Tibet, and also Nepal, those Sherpa and hill dudes will hang an animal, like a goat, in their entry way to keep it near the kitchen and eat on it over time. It's hanging right on the wall. When you first enter the building, it reeks like any old carcass, but after a few days you don't really notice it much at all. I do notice that every time I touch my ropes, even like just grabbing one in the basement and moving it over 6 inches, I have a memory of that smell and it is good. Not the smell itself which is not common or good: but what my memory associates with it. It's been a long, long time since I've done the sleep in the snow alone thing....wonder if the snow is still as cold as it use to be?

Good call ! In bad weather the hut may not be attainable. I thought that the "take a shovel for a snow cave advice" above is awesome too. It's nice (and still damn memorable) to just dig in or huddle up for a weekend during a huge mountain storm and hang out someplace still relatively safe a short hike in deep snow up a draw next glacier over from the car. Keep the gps and other key items with you even is going for a short hike away from your basecamp if the weather is shit, I wouldn't underestimate it, even if you are low on the mt someplace only 1/2 a mile from your car. Do some day trips in the shit weather - maybe see if you can just stand up for more than 5 min. before crawling back to basecamp, grateful to be alive, wishing your girlfriend was there with a hot body and hot espresso, with your dripping frozen snot hanging from your nose, frostbitten cheeks and frosted eyebrows. Maybe it's the huge bad weather window we just emerged from which has everyone feeling all cautious right now, I mean, freeways are closed, streams are full, snow dumped huge in the hills, and trees are down everywhere. I wonder if you had asked this during a period of settled and clear weather if you would have received different answers and folks would be less cautious? Sounds like fun! Enjoy. BTW, I use to do exactly what you are suggesting when I'd get depressed or mentally jammed up, this seemed to happen more in the winter in periods of bad weather. I'd just want to go be alone. I headed out to all kinds of strange places alone. On the food discussion front, I liked to take smoked oysters, cause you can drag it out, slowly let the oil drip off each one as you eat them, and then make a lil fire with a wick of a Cashew or Brazil Nut in the remaining oil, with the can tilted up, acting as a a reflector. It brought warmth to my soul and my fingers.

No need to get offensive John. Pink use to run laps on Beacon all year long. Predated Ivan:-) 6 solo laps = over 5000' if you hit the top. He's just saying this is what he use to do way back when to stay in shape. I think that it may be the best thing ever for both cardio and rock climbing strength at the same time. I've never hit it in the wet cordless though, and the thought of heading out there in this kind of weather, in the dark too, terrifies me. I couldn't do it. I could do it naked on a warm sunny day though! Since she lives in Seattle, she'll have to find her own lil playground locally. I like the workout partner idea. I notice that Ujahn and I will get some ski runs in, then sometimes also hit like Petes, Beacon, the woods or Ozone weather dependant. Course, somethings my legs are cramping from just the runs, and we'll go stand at the base of something and just hang out for a while, too satiated and content too want to get on anything. After work, wife and I will go for walks. I try to convince her that we should hike up the creek (I carry weights in the pack) but she's not into doing that in the dark. But Kitergal is asking what should she do during the week. If you are still in school K-gal, I'd hit their gym after class or find something you love to do like swimming or racketball, otherwise, noticed that both John and Marcus do Crossfit and that shite seems to be doing the trick as there may not be many stronger folks on this site for sure. Might take an exercise class at school. PSU does an alumnus deal, it use to be $45 a year to use their stuff, (it's got to be way more now) maybe your school does the same?

They're back, currently on E-bay Link Get them before they're gone. If the E-bay link does not work, try entering "Fish Ring Angle Claw" into the search. They may be available on the Fish Products site later.

No way dude, not you too! Damn. Whats this world coming too! Sigh....

Wow, they were so far ahead of their time, and made great stuff. Then they just disappeared ...till now. Wow

Damn, it is Trask ! They let you back on, well, welcome back asshole. I guess.

Thanks! Too cute to pass up!

Probably not, it's cold and dark after work here now. And damn wet too! Getting motivated is tough. Ya got family, ya got job, you have responsibilities - you have blah blah blah and some more blah to keep you off track. How about just starting with a workout partner? I've been thinking about going for a hike in the dark up Balch Creek (inside of town) with a pack on, but have been wussing. Its much warmer next to the computer:-) If I had a workout partner, it would be much harder to blow it off. My best climbing workouts were when I had a partner and a series of play dates: otherwise, it just soooo easy to head home like a horse to the barn for hay. Thats for the winter anyway, rest of the year, go with Pink: after work I head out to a local cliff (which cliff is time and sun dependent) with like minded folks and we burn some laps.

Sweet sweet stuff jeff!

Hi John: Bill here. No can follow through on that request because the tip on the 5 gallon bucket which you gave Pete is FRIGGAN AWESOME dude. I haul those things around occasionally and opening them can be a bitch! Those guys stashed one out at Trout Creek with coffee makins' and all kinds of things in it, having this opening lid will up the ante 100% for stashing gear out in the woods so the wildlife doesn't chew on it. I have 2 lids on the way. Haven't looked at the Mazama site yet, but I'm sure it's great. I had to say thank you, and didn't want to do it on another forum! Later

Don't tell Joseph these are schite, he just bought one to take to Red Rocks cause he thought it was a better alternative than freezing near to death like last time. I'm sure there was a reason he wanted the lighter one.

I'd have to read that twice to get on 5.8.

Link

Like maybe "she'll" drink yer beer too, and has a sister? :kisss: Then who would have time for beer!

Nothing wrong with asking....I have no knowledge of the dude myself.

I think the thing is, Minnesota guy, (or anyone) that you need to not be GOAL oriented, but process oriented. Especially in the winter where the weather can just suck donkey balls. If you come out here from Minn with a goal of summiting, you may be tempted to squeeze in the summit and elevate your risk by ignoring things you need to be paying attention too, like the fellas last year. If you come out to hang with your bros and to enjoy some climbing, and are thinking "process" and not "Goal", then you (in my mind) increase the odds that you'll have a balls deep time of it and beautiful memories for years to come. It's like the guy Anderl says to Jonathon in the Eiger Sanction, "Jonathan, you're very good. I have enjoyed climbing with you." Dude is all about enjoying the climbing, the process. I don't know if that made sense. Maybe I should say it again? How about just hooking up with an existing CC.comer some of these dudes seem to get up there all the time and survive some heinous shit (search for recent Hood trip reports from which will shrink your testicals).

Anything worth saying once is certainly worth saying twice.

Anything worth saying once is certainly worth saying twice.

I only went up there like that once in the winter, (back before the weather coverage got good like now and Nixon was still president). Good weather coverage, like now for instance, where they were reporting that PDX would get snow yesterday but that didn't happen). Basically my thoughts are if you can stay on top of the snow (snowshoes or skiis or find an already broken trail), carry extra weight as it relates to better tent, more food, big fluffy sleeping bag, fuel, dress warm, etc etc. Catch that weather window you know you need and you'll be good to go. Oh, my single Rainer winter experience of heading up in that "good" weather window resulted in @ 3-4 feet of snow in the evening and decided (you can't sleep very well in that kind of weather and getting periodically crushed by the snow on the tent), to wuss out. You've been up there 5 times, you know what you are getting into. If it was me, I would have wanted to have been up on my choice of route in later summer to see what was what and work on getting my bearings. I highly suspect that there isn't a chance in hell you'll fall into a crevasse, but I once guessed a slope would not avalanche and was wrong about that too. Another time I almost guessed wrong about the weather on Rainer too, so theres some luck and pluck you will need for sure. I've never really used a GPS although I'm thinking of buying one to facilitate wandering around in the woods. From what I've seen, in whiteout conditions it would be so much supremely better than a compass/altimeter/map bullshit as you are getting frostbite on your cheeks trying to look at the damn things. I wouldn't head up with out feeling like my GPS and I were one, and I had that totally sussed. The good news, however, you'll absolutely have the whole place to yourself.

Oh no! (deer in headlights look), crazed exit for the door...........

Ha Ha! Thanks Bigtree ! You saved me from the embarrassment of publicly and incorrectly guessing King George the third on my 3rd try!

Joblow, it seems to me that it's almost always people like yourself that wind up doing the insane stupid killing things. You ignore facts, bend and rationalize your opinions, do NOT tolerate, understand or study others opinions: you attitude flys in the face of facts. That is, real facts, not the facts you are dreaming of. Thanks Sobo.