billcoe

Ouch...outted. Yes, yes I am Joseph's official mouthpiece, and my commission check is overdue too. Did the last 7 pages give me away? PS, speaking of chisels - Russ Walling sold me 2 chisels recently too:-) These things have machined groves and wire rope swaged onto it in case anyone wants any of this kind of stuff for chipping any new routes they are working on.....www.fishproducts.com. Cept he's out climbing right now, so you'll have to wait.

Of course you can argue it either way. Robbins thought he knew about Dawn Wall too until he jumped on it with a chisel. I meant that this very point had been discussed, and well flushed out earlier in the thread...both points of view can be valid IMO. It probably boils down to ones pre-conceived conceptions and notions of what is correct or not correct pre-this thread discussion really are.

No sh*t. Rudy, you might ask him what his fav. pitch this year was. I've reconsidered my previous response. It was the entire (complete) SE corner cordless (so as a single pitch) early AM on one of those perfect summer days. To answer the rest of Wills question "What made it so good?" The smell of the dew just burning off in the am as the crisp of the evening departs, and the freedom of easy 600-700' of uninterrupted flow....well, thats what made it so good.

I'm blaming Doug for this thread revival, he linked it in Rudys Raindawg taunting thread. Unintentional trainwrecking it's called:-) Huh? Mimi, Kevin already pitched that softball 5-6 pages ago and it was knocked out of the park. There was also an earlier reference to "I don't have to try unprotected, lubricated Gay Anal sex to know I don't like it, but I can still comment on how mess up it is" or something like that. I guess from my viewpoint, I look at some great lines that have bolts. All of the routes up El Cap and Monkey Face for instance, and I liked climbing all the ones I've been on. Even (maybe especially) Dean Caldwell's bolt ladder. Had some petty bureaucrat come over while they were doing that or any of those lines, and stopped all activity, then all of us would be the poorer for it. Monkey Face, for instance, would not have a single route to the summit. I understand striving and endeavoring to climb in good style, and to discuss the definition of what that is, but I don't see it as an absolute rule that all must follow everywhere we go. Different areas have different ethics and norms and people rarely butt heads with the group ethic which has taken years to evolve at that specific area. I understand rap bolting and using a drill to bolt as well. If you HAVE to put a bolt in, should it not be the best you can do? I agree that most people coming out of gyms are short changed on the mental development that most of us went through, and I am not advocating that gym mentality become the dominant ethic. I think routes done bold should be left that way, and routes done with bolts should be left that way, unless a huge percentage of LOCALS, ie those who climb in that area 99% of the time, disagree.

I was thinking the exact same thing. Thread drift, lets see the pictures, videos! __________________________________________________ Oh, I got it now, I thought I read they had a GPS. OK.

I read all this again, every single post, an have not changed my mind a bit. It only serves to remind me to hold my own cards closer to my vest. Regards to all Bill

Isn't that about the 10th time you've posted that now?

Wait, thats a climbing picture Doug!

I'll be fine if you bring out some pictures!

You must live a different world than I. BTW, messed up will be Raindawg posting this every 15 min on every 2nd thread in between Nazi pictures to support some inane banal argument he has. Brace yourself. ...

nice avatar minx, i figured you were fridged this whole time. Dude, you should have been there that one time in the hot tub at the Moderator suite, you wouldn't make that mistake If you're gonna start inviting the riff-raff I want an invitation too!

This help Rudy? Ammunition.

They'll be tired for sure. Maybe we can take up a collection and buy them a compass?

Oh no ya don't, don't be turning this into a climbing thread now....

And rolls her own tampons too. But this bitch is not anywhere near machoville yet. Maybe some other things. Too bitchy? No question. Whiny? Absolutly. Cranky? Uhhh huh. Catty? Yes! Malicious? Duh! Unpleasant? No doubt!! Cruel? Yup. Crabby? Unquesionably. Nasty? Looks like it. Venomous? Hey yah! Ill-humored? Not even funny! Irritable? Appears to be! Shrewish? With an exclamation point! I'd stop listening to that woman about 2 min after her first sentence.... ______________________________________________________ Jay b -thats good stuff up there:-)

You sure it's a troll? Mr. P.Goat ...hello? You are serious or not?

Of my gear OMG, pictures of my gear. *blush*

Good call, I do envy you being able to live in the valley for an extended time like that. Apron jam just seems like a lot of graceless work. I haven't done it for years. Rowell was always in great shape all his life, I don't think shit like that affected him or slowed him down at all. Maybe it's my pear shaped body type which refuses to fit in there? I do have a possible route eyeballed of a harder, shorter version of that one and recently bought the gear for it, but despite owning larger gear now, my balls still seem excessively small to take a shot. Want to see pictures? The last week I've been mentally working on prepping for a spring time shot at it. There s an easy 5.9 route in Red Rocks called Chrystler Crack I'll look at too next time I'm down there now that I have the wide gear for it. Very similar, but Apron Jam takes some smaller gear, Chrystler crack is strictly a wide off width/squeeze chimney. Goodrich (Right)is a nice route, but it also seems like it is also a fair ways away from all the rockfall on both ends. I almost forgot but I did Cold Fusion as well in between doing Harry Daley and the other 2 routes. Andrew and Dave Hardin let me lead the 3rd pitch, which puts you right above the 2 dudes belying directly below - and if you grease, you land on them and they get to soften the blow! Ha ha, bony dudes would have felt my fat ass landing on them for sure if I'd peeled! Nice route.

Cool, I'd seen the video of him doing the "deep water soloing"... Jim will like the Moonlight part for sure. See you then, what kind of beer do you all like. Guiness, Heiniken, or Fat tire amber? I was gonna invite Sean (Moof). But didn't find Jim's address. Can I get it PMed or emailed over and I'll forward it?

Ha ha! Good on ya, but I hope hanging out in 'Merica doesn't rub off some of that for you, I got my first taste at 17 years old when 2 weeks of hiking coincided with a major dump of wet sleet just as we hit the Jefferson Pacific Crest Trail high point. Damn nice thing my big bro, who, at 18 was so old and uber experienced, was there to watch out for my weak, wet, tired-ass and record my ravings:-) (one lesson learned there was do NOT take a cheap-assed old and ripped up $18 pup tent on a 30 day hiking trip! Especial with a $20 sleeping bag for a backup in case it goes bad) Been lucky to avoid it since, despite some major shit swirling around here and there on some of these trips. Have a good trip, weather comes and goes, but good friends and climbing buddies are timeless and priceless. Wish you all well, may you be blessed with great weather and firm snow! Regards: Bill

Link 07? 06? You might need to toss off some tired old dogma baggage and get out more:-)

Who cares! And yes he would love it. Hmmm, No, I don't believe that what it's about. Maybe it' because I'm projecting my own feelings here. Jim doesn't give a rats ass about some uber strong gym rat who grunts loudly and screams while clipping bolts 5 feet apart. I know it's phenomenal, and it's amazing, but we're talkin Jim here - sure. I watch Sharma in awe, but I' don't think Jim will. For Jim, I suspect that the entire challenge would be most interesting. It may be Edlinger doing a 1000 foot free solo of a bolted route, or a Huber or Potter speed climb of a El Cap test piece, but barring that, Jim would be most happy if his compadres, his fellow warriors, get some winter stoke and enjoyed each others company in the spirit of tight bonding and hail fellow well met. Sharma is but a secondary player in this. You can ask him. But lets put on the video, and ask after the fact. Our secret until then, and maybe we will gain a window of insight which we otherwise did not have by utilizing this approach.

I'd kill myself if I had to listen to a whinny bitch like that. Nah, maybe I'd just off her instead. Jesus H Christ, give me a break. "Now", says I to myself, "that there is a woman who lives alone with a vibrator." I'll bet her cat can't even stand her and left a long time ago.

Maybe my single pitch valley favorite too. Like the Dr Feelgood access route too. Wuz talked out of doing it this spring due to the rockfall issue. Best route may be Serenity - Sons of Yesterday. Love the length. You didn't fear all that deadly boulder and rockfall Will? I wanted to do that route, we warmed up on Harry Daley and then moved close to over there on Son of Sam and Lonely Dancer next to it. Too scared to jump on Mr natural, I'd gotten lots of warnings from various folks, and the previous year we could have been buried on the other side of Glacier point in a massive rockfall. We were just off Marginal and starting East over that way towards Ilsa She wolf and ? forget the names (Hoppys?) when all hell cut loose....whew! No one was over there, but it easily could have been fatal. It was friggan huge. Kind of gun shy now but love that area. That stuff was so big on the East side, that 3 of the best helmets in the world wouldn't have mattered. Looking at the result of the fall on the West side, those blocks on the ground looked even bigger. Course, bet you had the route to yourself. Best single pitch....hmmm, maybe the 2nd pitch of Trezlar at Smith, any one of 3 or 4 pitches above the Elephants Trunk on Epi in Red Rocks, or the 2nd pitch of Blownout when I did it with Ujahn. (I fell on it with JH, so it got downrated:-)

OMG! You GOT the gift Ivan!