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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. billcoe

    we are fucked

    As of this morning it's approaching crisis purport in the Coe kitchen. Actually, although I forget the gentleman's name, he lost 1/2 of his hives last year.
  2. My trip goal is to spend my wifes 50th birthday (Christmas day! of all things) climbing in Thailand. The last time we almost did this, my daughter, who is in college, couldn't make it, so at the last min we changed plans went to Paris and dicked off instead. The tidal wave of the century hit the place we would have been. So in addition to staying out of the hospital, I want to survive the year. BTW, I was out hiking in the gorge yesterday looking for climbable cliffs, I bet ya a fin ya didn't make it very far up the Ruckle. Be good fitness, wet weather and snow humping practice though.
  3. That's it Sobo, great exchange, and it just seemed so...so...spot on the money. "But we shall continue with style" ...good stuff, I'd have tied in with that dude any day. That whole climb, he was the one I connected to the most. He was the most considerate of the others throughout. He'd be the dude I'd want as a partner.
  4. Me too Kev. I think that is why I like that part where the Swiss guy looks over to Johnathan in the Eiger Sanction and knowing they will not live says "I think I have liked climbing with you very much", or something like that. I like that feeling where your and a buddy have flown up a wall like 2 birds, screaming up with minimal disturbances or discourse, but in harmony nonetheless, as the challenges get knocked off one by one. Like a flock of birds that seem just know the way the other birds will fly without bumping into each other. There is the element of athleticism and strength (numbers), yet the mental strategy, complexity of the technical issues (belaying, anchoring etc), fear of the unknown, and challenge of the route(s) are not ever lost or forgotten. An undercurrent feeling of trust and harmony exists between partners. Thats a good day for me. Like the process as much as the summit I think.
  5. Dan too? Is this sickness contagious? It's spreading from JH and Ivan it appears. __________________________________________ Ha ha! JH usually has extras in his car or pack too! BTW -THOSE HEAT PACKS JH USES ARE ON SALE AT COSTCO TOO RIGHT NOW. I saw like a whole stack of boxes for sale. Maybe I should have just bought a box: 1 less excuse to stay home and sit in front of the fire watching the wide screen wile it snows :-)
  6. I'm surprised not to like that shoe better as well, it's not just the rubber as it fits me poor as well. Sportivas have always been top-notch for me. Not this one. I already sent mine into get the $15 special 1/2 sole price they were offering that month (resoled by Yosemite bum in Evolve Trax rubber) before I could even stomach using them in the freaking gym or a practice boulder problem, they are marginally better. But for $25 dollars or whatever freak price we got them for....sigh...couldn't pass on that. BTW, I just bought a bunch the last of the big-wide bigbros from US outdoor store in case you have any offwidth challenges coming up and just want to borrow mine instead of buy. They're significantly lighter than cams for flying to Red Rocks or NM too. That big stuff tends to sit in the closet a lot for me.
  7. Denali Dave: just take the lil fella into the dentist and they'll paint his lil teeth with a heavy coating. Why make him drink it every day when he can rinse and spit and be done with it in 20 min, and not suffer the stuff in his body every day forever? (and by proxy the rest of us as well)
  8. I hope you're right Graham, but I think that this will further disenfranchise the middle of the road pro-democracy crowd, and I suspect, this will radicalize many of them. BTW, the Bhutto supporters, who wanted democracy and freedom from a petty, power hungry, US supported dictator, believe that the dictator Musharraf was behind this. Well see how it plays out in the coming weeks, months and years. I do not think it will be a good thing at all, for anybody. I suspect the tribalists and various jihadists will benefit long term by swelling their ranks from the disenfranchised, and from sympathy from others.
  9. Link "Benazir Bhutto, a former Pakistan prime minister and opposition leader, has been killed in a suicide bombing on her political rally, government and party officials confirmed today..... " This could have some huge major long term negative effects for us that we might not see for a few years yet.
  10. Nice speil, but I need to politely disagree as there's lots of them. John Bachar, for instance, was a regular with Mike Reardon on his soloing circuit. He almost bit it in a car accident a year ago and is back to soloing 5.11 after breaking 5 of the vertabrae in his neck in that accident. I could name lots more but won't. And BTW, many of the best died doing something else anyway, suicide and car accidents come to mind. Earl Wiggan probably tops that list for his insane solo 2nd ascent of Scenic Cruise, onsite, where he gets off route in what is already one the scariest bad-assed places on earth, the Black Canyon, and unknowingly does a new 5.10d route, unroped, solo, unannounced and unplanned. Then he kills himself years later. Reardon himself was standing on tera firma looking silly when a wave swept him out to sea, a not too uncommon occurance on the Washington and Oregon coast for non-climbers. BTW, how sick is this, I woke up at 4 am thinking of climbing and with my mind spinning at high speed about it and unable to sleep, finally give up trying to sleep and just succumb to start spraying about it. Sigh........
  11. Here's an economical solution: OMG! thats hilarious Pope!
  12. The Horror....The Horror....
  13. Wow, spot on the money!
  14. Newport is a nice lil town though. There is climbing closer than Smith and you may be able to get some new stuff developed in the area as well. Otherwise - it's still gonna suck for climbing. Good beer though! Welcome to Oregon!
  15. Just head out with CMS or me:-)
  16. billcoe

    Blazers

    Fixed it for you Bone, wuz ya just sleepin' and missed the game with the Oklahoma Sonics tonight? BTW: I'm selling my 2 tickets to the Timberwolves (next Blazer game) where they are trying for #12 if anyone has $125.00 left after Christmas and wants to see what a winning streak looks, feels and sounds like. Section 206 row E, face value for both is $99.00.
  17. Sorry Bryan but I think your cam had been bootied. Don't remember it. Didn't get to the out of control area or even get on Dark Shadows, which is a great climb. Plan a pub club, and come by if you're around, wife is doing the New Years day thing this year too.
  18. Bet his kids do as well. Well, use to anyway. Thanks for sharing Rudy!
  19. Oh theres still plenty left Sherri! Both money and fun! A couple of the more enjoyable things for me after the climbing with Ujahn was over this time was calling my son everyday for the rundown of the basketball games. I'd say, looking at the sheet full of scores and the days scheduled games: "OK, Denver is playing at Houston and is favored by 3." He'd reply something like: Well, Alan Iverson's playing good, Denver will beat the spread." Me: "Iverson is playing for Denver?" What happened to Philly?" "Dad PLEEAASSSE! ! Whatta, live in a cave? Iverson got traded 3 years ago! Besides, Iverson's hitting that 20' step back jumper and he's getting strong crossovers and a half step on even the new guys since his calf muscle healed! He'll probably get 20 points on drives alone, Denver for sure." Me: "Oh" (making frantic notes). "Uhh, Ok, what do you think on the over-under if I said 212?" Lad: "Over."..... Denvers also got Carmello Anthony dad, and Houston's healthy and will be takin it down court on the fly, over for sure". long pause..... OK, "How about the Lakers and Sonics?" And that's how that went. Lad was 32 wins, 18 losses. Some of the loses were when his team pick had their opponents drop a bucket in the last second to beat the spread. I was up on Blackjack too, but I bet low stakes and mostly just visited with folks: hanging with my brother at a blackjack table can run towards being a 3 ring circus where everyone is involved. Brother says to the card dealer: "How do you get comped for breakfast here"? Dealer " Oh that's Jacks call, he's the pit boss". Bro: "Oh, thanks - could you call Jack over here?" Jack gets to the table. Bro then starts what will prove to be a relentless running series of side negotiations with Jack for the next mornings breakfast as the cards continue to fly and the friendly Midwest couple at the table stare amazed at this display of unbridled Chutzpah unlike anything they've ever seen or perhaps ever will see. "Jack", says bro, waving his hands to show he's including everyone at the table "this table wants breakfast comped tomorrow". Jack: "I'm sorry, but complimentary breakfasts are for registered guests or players club members only blah blah blah". "Jack, please": starts in bro with his opening salvo of what will prove to be more than Jack ever has to deal with: "Millie and Don there came all the way from Topeka to be here," pauses for effect and gestures to the beaming couple, who appear enchanted to be involved in the discussion "and we've been sitting here having a great time giving your boss's money and supporting your casino so you can get a big paycheck and don't you think it's only fair that you give us a little something in return?" 10 min of this dialog and Jack leaves. No breakfast....yet. 5-10 min later...the card game continuing... Bro notices Jack on the other side of the pit again and within a few seconds has the whole table chanting and clapping in unison like the frikkan world series game is on the line "JACK JACK JACK JACK JACK. With at least 1/2 the casino looking at us, stopped dead in mid-card deal to watch this unusual interruption, Jack comes over to the table which is now at fever pitched laughter at having won this little drama and gotten Jacks attention, and Jack is torn because they don't like this raucous behavior in casinos, but this group is still playing, laughing and joking: obviously having a great time and to Jack they look prepared to give up their kids college funds and the title to their homes once the bank account gets depleted if it continues, so Jack tries to be cool and with a wry smile quietly and almost shyly asks everyone to keep it down a bit by saying "shhhh, guys, keep it down a little will ya, you don't want me to lose my job now do you"? Everyone gets quiet and then Bro starts in again: "Come on Jack, how much is breakfast really going to cost you guys?". You're buying the eggs wholesale, at a nickel and egg, why thats gonna cost you only" ..pause to do the math...."40 cents..thats if everyone here even has 2 eggs tomorrow morning.....blah blah etc etc", "why hell Jack, I'd think you'd want us wandering back in tomorrow for breakfast so we'd drop all our sports book money here...etc etc." This little drama plays out for about an hour until finally Jack relents and gives everyone at the table a complimentary breakfast, thus saving everyone the $2.99 they would have had to pay otherwise. We give our leave to Don and Millie, and everyone walks out with the breakfast coupons and are feeling like Ed McMahon just told them they'd won the Publishers Clearinghouse Sweepstakes. On the way over to breakfast, coupon in hand and still high from that winning feeling, Bro says: "What do you think about heading over to look at the new Bentleys in the Wynn?" When we get there, they want $10 to just walk in the door. People are paying it too. Bro has never paid to look at a car in his life and won't start now so he will have none of that of course...it's game on again! Culminating with bro getting us in the dealership and trying to suck a complimentary lunch out of them as well. And so it goes. My brother, he's so damn much fun. This kind of thing happens on and off the whole time he's there. Never a dull moment. Yeah, I'd better join you Sherri. I might be under that pile of money behind your drivers seat.
  20. Found it Melissa: JH had linked all that stuff he suggests on his post. Link to Josephs post Said: I think he changed the shoe thing, but kept the socks. Hey, his links still work! Cool!
  21. No: but I found this:
  22. Uhhhh, OK. But remember this fact Dru, you only got credited with a single post for that one. It's gonna be a long haul to get to 30,000 again.
  23. Sweet, proving persistence pays off as it looks like they are back to only #1's only again.
  24. me too!
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