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Everything posted by billcoe
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Bet it got a snow dump of unparalleled portion's today. Great memories of that place, use to think it was the bast place on the planet. Then it seemed to start getting wildly crowded about 1972 or so and I haven't been there hardly since except for a winter ascent or 2 of the N face of Jefferson. I remember being up there and stepping outside of my tent to pee at 2 am once, and seeing the stars bigger than I'd ever seen them.
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I might be into a quick lap up the corner. What time you folks thinking?
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[font:Arial Black]Bug you're a dick! [/font] Hope that helped.
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I didn't think any big name climbers post here? Maybe it's Steve House? He posts here? Croft? Hmmm, probably Croft he's Canadian, thats about a 3 hour drive. That bastard!
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Holy crap did I mis-call that or what? Today -10:30 am - 3000 foot level.
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Currently "Voices Carry" Till Tuesday. How about just getting out in the snow today, I'm just back. Snows dropping to @ 2600 feet right now. Sticking too.
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You skiing on rocks Jon? WTF? Still climbing season dude. You'll have to calm down for 3 weeks at least is my projection, probably 4, but bring the pics there eh? in case I'm wrong.
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ps, everyone knows that I have more hair than that picture shows.
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Heres the full post. This is why I said to do the trail on the far side by the other parking area where NO one parks! BUT EVIDENTLY NO ONE GIVES A FU*K WHAT I SAY OR THINK!!!!!!!!! btw, that trail is there, it needs to be made gentler. I am speaking from 35+ years of f*ing with such things, it would be easier to touch up the far side trail. Really! Trust me Letsroll, I'm not just blowing hot air -ask any one who knows me. Seriously. Peter: Kevbone would be a good dude to hang with here for you and he'll give good belay as well as an interesting running dialog. Really. He's a good dude and great company and the folks who give him grief about his postings on this site just don't know him. Joseph is someone else who you should contact to take a ride up Beacon too. Both of them have different real personnas that don't gibe with their online personalities. Joseph in particular, has facial expressions in person (like smiling) that do not get seen in print here. Bone in full on spray mode below with red rope bag, "Clif" warming up to belay me and we're in both full on geriatric mode FA of ... . I forget what those dudes named it....Jimmy O has a route list. Kev, Ujhan and I went and rap/cleaned your route off that we trashed. It was pretty clean...I took the right and he took the left. The route we did that day still needs to be cleaned and I will do it this winter when my other play areas are closed. Oh...Larry named it "Before the Storm", cause after I topped out and yelled down "off belay", he was down there dicking around fooooevvver, while I'm tied off to a fir tree watching this massive squall head right towards us from across the Colombia River. So I yell down to slow Ethel there [font:Arial Black]Hey dude, it's starting to rain up here." [/font] Larry yells back " [font:Arial Black]Yeah? It is down here too! [/font] Cracked me up! Ya gotta love the guy.
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Well rather than just telling me what to do are you ready to put your money where your mouth is? I fully intend to work on the far side trail. I would love to have your help since this will be the first time for me. My schedual is about to open up with the end of cross country season and willing to meet you out there for ideas. My thinking I would practice on the closest trail to work out the bugs before tackling regrading the other. However I just got the fact that you would want that trail completely eleminated, I gather to eliminate traffic or restrict traffic to that of climbers only. I understand the thinking but don't think it will work now. Too many people have come that way rather from the farside and I think you would have a tough time eliminating that trail. When the farside is ready for traffic I am willing to give the nearside trail elimination a go. letsroll You drinkin wine too? I said [font:Arial Black]don't [/font]call me:-) Look, I don't promise much, but I'm about 100 percent deliverin on it when I do. If you need help, and you need advice, and you absolutely need ME, I'll be there for ya. But not for long, as I have worked on that trail, and when the flakes fly I'll be play'in in the snow with the lad and Ujahn: Like all the frikkan time. Sometimes we'll swing by here or Pete's to get a short burn for the arms when the legs are already Pwn'ed, but usually I'm ready for a nap after skiing. I have 4 hot pairs of brand new skiis in the basement. 4 (four) - can't.... not ......rip...arrrrhhhhhhrrg ! I'm not saying get rid of the existing trail. I'm saying that there are 2 (that's TWO) trails right now and that the far side one is the one that will drastically benefit the area, it needs NO wood or major supports or efforts, just needs to be graded better AND it will be easier to fix. Thats all I'm saying! Go look at the far side trail, have you even seen it? All will become clear. Good luck, and remember, do [font:Arial Black]NOT[/font] call me, unless you[font:Arial Black] really [/font]need me. It's like calling on Superman that way. Once you've tweaked the far side trail, everytime you roll down it you'll go ahhhhh! and feel complete.
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NO WAY! NO WAY! Are you shitting us? F dude! Poor bastard must have hit the bottom. Having had unbelievable bad back pain I sympathize. In MY experience, MD's don't know SHIT about backs and necks but they can't bring themselves to out themselves and just proclaim their ignorance AND total stupidity on the subject. It's bad- they absolutely don't know jack shit but don't want to be thought of as blithering idiots ...but they truly are in this instance. Even a short time around them as they bluster and pontificate and a layman realizes how Friggan dumb MD's are in this area. In fact they are too f*cken stupid to realize how friggan stupid they are. Thats how bad it is and you almost pity them except they keep f*ucking people like your friend up for life due to their stupidity and ignorance. Cortizon shots? Chrrrisst! God they're arrogant dumbasses. [font:Arial Black]LAYTON? [/font] Where are you? Sh*t, where is the dude? Dudes posting about womens clothes right now I'll bet. Link for important info on sizing womens clothing I'd defiantly explore my options but #1 on the list would be calling Dr Mike Layton or someone like him. That's exactly what I would do, F*ck the corizone shots, don't get crazy! I speak from personal experience. MD's don't know shit. Treat the cause - not the symptoms. Layton just graduated and started running a ad on CC.com on the front page if you want to contact him. The guy who brought me out of back pain hell retired and 3 chiros later I learned that not all are created equally. But: thats where I'd be. Christ dude! ...Good luck, it's got to be bad for your buddy. I speak from one who had extreeeeeeme pain, MD's suck, start with a chiropractor. I'm serious. Really. Good luck.
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Do it! You will not get avied on, you will have a good time. Dress warm. Be in condition. McKenzie pass hold a special place in my heart. Many of my now long gone relatives would meet and camp. You might plan a day trip or two to see how you are as partners first. Have fun!
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No There will be no poaching of rapbolted lines with fair, trad, clean or other means before I get er done! This Cathedral shall be done top down with closely spaced bolts and 30M rap points so you can rap with a single rope and it will be a wonderland and a playland and a Gothic Rock land. Not just that but as you can see in the pic, there are plenty of pinnacles which you can tie a sling on and rap off sans bolts. You can, however, come along because: A) You can ropegun the 11 - 12 - and 5.13 hard lines which includes all the window areas and the gargoyles I can't get up -which btw is not because I am old and 20 lbs overweight. B) You are good company, honest and fun. C) hmmmm - as yet to be named D) after another glass of wine E) Side note: No running away faster than me if the authorities show up cause I feel they should all be rounded up and shipped to Iraq rather than sit here and manage me and nice folks like me who don' want to be, nor need to be "managed". F) No ice tools will get punched into the stained glass windows of the belfry while one is humming "Stairway to Heaven" to oneself. G) You can bring the monster drill, extra batteries, lots of hardware like @ 200 1/2 diameter bolts and hangers and extra bits. Sorry hound, but thats just how the couchmaster rolls
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Ivan, I took care of it last year. Top and bottom. That tree Kev and those folks yanked down was re-bushing and I nuked it. I will say that the top needs to be hit with roundup again. That is, if we can get permission from "Clif" who doesn't want to pull it, but doesn't want to have it sprayed by anyone else. This is why I said to do the trail on the far side by the other parking area where NO one parks! BUT EVIDENTLY NO ONE GIVES A FU*K WHAT I SAY OR THINK!!!!!!!!! It's like talkin to my kids that way. Wait, they at least do what I tell them. btw, that trail is there, it needs to be made gentler. I am speaking from 35+ years of f*ing with such things, it would be easier to touch up the far side trail. Really! Trust me Letsroll, I'm not just blowing hot air -ask any one who knows me. Seriously. Peter: Kevbone would be a good dude to hang with here for you and he'll give good belay as well as an interesting running dialog. Really. He's a good dude and great company and the folks who give him grief about his postings on this site just don't know him. Joseph is someone else who you should contact to take a ride up Beacon too. Both of them have different real personnas that don't gibe with their online personalities. Joseph in particular, has facial expressions in person (like smiling) that do not get seen in print here. Bone in full on "TM Herbert" spray mode below with red rope bag, "Clif" warming up to belay me and we're in both full on geriatric mode on a FA of ... . I forget what those dudes named it....Jimmy O has a route list. Kev, Ujhan and I went and rap/cleaned your route off that we trashed. It was pretty clean...I took the right and he took the left. The route we did that day still needs to be cleaned and I will do it this winter when my other play areas are closed. Edited to add...Larry named it "Before the Storm", cause after I topped out and yelled down "off belay", he was down there dicking around fooooevvver, while I'm tied off to a fir tree as the rain is starting while watching this dark massive squall head right towards us from across the Colombia River. So I yell down to slow Ethel there [font:Arial Black]Hey dude, it's starting to rain up here." [/font] Larry leisurely yells back " [font:Arial Black]Yeah? It is down here too! [/font] Cracked me up! Ya gotta love the guy.
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Yeah, what Frank said, except for the call me part, don't call me. That place is already too overdeveloped for a secret crag. My opinion only here. Your results may vary.
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Sometimes it's just better to just stay at home, look at the pretty pictures and thank the stars and the powers that be that they didn't roll any monster rocks down on these bros. That's my plan anyway! Glad you dudes had a good trip, and I thank you for sharing.
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"Always tie and untie your shoes when putting them on or taking them off". Looks like they must have lowered their standards:-0
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I'm just kidding, I do OK. I will admit to falling on a 10a crack at Beacon 'bout a month or so ago. Pretty surprised. I chalk it up to age and not paying attention. Joseph caught me, the funny part is he was telling me about catching another fall of some old timer's at that very location at the start of the day. Ivan and Dan saw it from a few ledges over and I had to endure that cackling. I will say only that I did better than Stewart though in that his fall on the same crack when he broke his foot must have been a 60+ footer or so from the sounds of it.
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Sounds like it:-) You'll get sued - it's the American way. No. This is defiantly not the thing to do. The answer is to sue the bastards. Yeah. As American as suing the bastards....err, in this case, I guess it's "suing us". Yeah, make the MFers cease and desist. That should put to all stop to golf in the city any way. Good call. Golf sucks. Bastards shouldn't be doing this in your back yard. Ie having fun in their selected sport. BTW, you and what you like to do will most likely be next on the docket. Like to have wild sex in your house? NOPE, you'll get sued cause your neighbors kid can hear it. Climbing somewhere, buzzzz nope, you'll get sued cause you are stressing out the local homeowners! You tree drops leaves in the neighbors yard? Buzzz! Plan on getting sued (BTW, I already got sued on this one!) Yeah, complain and then sue the bastards. Yeah. Its the American way: take away their rights to enjoy themselves like they have been doing for the last 50 years. Bastards. How dare they intrude on your space! Bastards.
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I like groomed runs at high speed. I especially like to get air at high speed. I like steep if it's groomed and have only had maybe 2 good powder days in my life. Crud makes me fall. I like speed, so that isn't a good thing. This air thing is different than "Big" air, of which I got too much in High school to the point where a tall jump scares the shit out of me and reminds me of the time I almost broke both knees coming down from way up high when both ski bindngs released and my knees slammed into the boards. I don't know the din settings, my kid went to college a few years back and she was the only one who knew what that was in the house. Although the coin is unlimited. I am a cheap sob, to the xtreeme, and looking for a deal. But, I have always settled for second best so my kids could have 1st choice and top shelf or I could bank the scratch in case they needed it later, (explains why I can't ski powder well, had cheap skis all my life and never would pony up the $), and would not mind buying the good stuff, as long as I really do get safer releases, truely, and not just marketing hype.
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Nice pics Mark. Thanks
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Long list elsewhere on the site, however in review, I see I may have missed a few reasons. Like being old, sucky and fat means people just laugh at you.
