billcoe

In the spririt of camaraderie and in an effort to get the discussion back to rockclimbing and not what a bunch of Elmer Gantry F*uking loudmouth hypocrites some of you jackasses are: I have decided not to name the first rap bolted line I have scoped out "Squeeze job" or "Dawging it" (after Raindawg) after all. No, when the new big-assed Bosch rotohammer which I've nicknamed "the Dawg" arrives, the first route "The Dawg" hammers the holy hell out of and permanently scars will be named.............hold............drum roll........... hold...."Squeezing the Dawg". A more interesting name no doubt not the least of which is due to the sly sexually suggestive undertones in addition to the allegorical and alternative uses of that illiteration. Interestingly enough and in a strange twist of twisted fate, this potential line lays smack in between the 2 pure lines which are sandwiched between bolted lines which I fa'ed last June (in this area being discussed on this thread) with NO BOLTS AT ALL, a full 2 months after some of the last group of new route putteruppers declared this area to be finished and totally climbed out. I'll bring pictures. Prepare your teeth for the gnashing they will undoubtedly be engaged in. You've been warned. Meantime, while you wait for this event to occur, would you just lighten up fer christsakes? Ta ta Bill

Here's the quote in question: "Read a little history and you will find that since rock climbing emerged as a sport apart from mountain climbing there has been a general trend where each successive generation's improvements are criticized by the prior. Roped belaying was decried by some in the early 20th century, pitons in the 20's, aid climbing in the 50's, and even cams were said by some to be cheating when they came out in the '70's." Here's what you did, MattP, which I think does illuminate your "take" on modern bolting practices (and if this doesn't do it, remember that only the uninformed novices and nonclimbing land managers are unaware of your activities that have contributed to the problem). In the italicized paragraph above, you entered into a discussion on bolting and brought up this supposed historical criticism of "improvements" in rock climbing, as if to put into historical perspective the current criticism of excessive bolt application. Clever subtext to readership: today's bolting critics are just afraid of anything new and their rants can be dismissed since they are clearly taking their place in history as a generation of nonadaptive, xenophobic fossils. By comparing bolting opponents to such "historical" critics of equipment improvements, you are necessarily comparing bolts to what have been considered legitimate improvements in climbing technology. Also, it is not my intention to stir the pot. Not everybody vocally in opposition to your views is merely trying to create a disturbance. Furthermore I have never advocated a no-bolt approach to rock climbing, although it would be an improvement on the current state of the sport. I have heard Don advocate no bolts, and you are very close to it. So lets step back and get the historical perspective. Short synopsis: Royal Robbins was one of the earliest who postulated that with technology, humans could theoretically go anywhere. Since we climbed for the adventure, it only made sense for us to arbitrarily draw a line in the sand "for ourselves" on technology's use so as to maintain that spirit of adventure. Somehow that has gotten twisted now by some jackasses to mean that use of bolts should be illegal. Frankly, I climb at 2 parks occasionally. Beacon Rock State Park and Smith Rocks State Park. Using your thinking, they should not be putting in pavement as that permanently leaves scars in the land in a major way. Nevermind that people who want to just drive to the park to have a picnic will all get screwed. They should not put in water spigots LIKE THEY BOTH HAVE as the construction to do so permanently scars the land in a major way. Fu*k thirsty people, let them get water at their homes eh? They should not put in campsites LIKE THEY BOTH HAVE as the construction to do so permanently scars the land in a major way. Fu*k the campers eh? They should not put in trails LIKE THEY BOTH HAVE as the construction to do so permanently scars the land in a major way. Both places have hammered and pounded the crap out of the rock to make trails, in a major way. Of course that screws the hikers. Nevermind that you can hardly see the bolts they are so small. Just another user group you want to get the shaft. As far as that goes, by your thinking, roads should not be in place at all. Even the non-paved logging roads to your lil out of the way crags tear the holy hell out of the land. Well, when you stop living in a house or using wood in any way, or stop driving to your favorite climbing spot on that major pavement that permanently scarred and tore the holy hell out of the land, maybe we can talk about this. Until then you're just another loudmouth hypocrite.

I grunt every morning - it works my core.

Do Dawg and Pope know about this affront to the environment?

Another engineer (aerospace working for a large NW company) And isn't it ironic that white collar engineer/science/etc. types are interested in climbing whilst spending nearly their entire careers sitting on their butts... screw sales. I do know some folks who work for a living that don't sit in front of a computer and so cannot answer this question. People who are answering this tend to have computers. And be white collar at a desk.

Mfg part specific: but no, check link #3. Some of these can be installed and achieve full strength during wet conditions.

Concur Mark: I too find myself agreeing with Pope and Dwayner (Dawg) - but they see the world as too black and white. Dawg would chop every bolt at this place, for instance, which is crazy shit and his attitude makes me mental sometimes. If they were showing up on this site with a climbing TR or picture occasional it would be more bearable, but alas, all they can seem to do is interject the same sad dig ....and often in the strangest of places or oddest of times. Link to the final word on bolting For instance: here is something Dawg wrote which I agree with. "The people who object most strongly to anything, I have found, are those who believe that there is only one way of thinking, and that way is their own." It is true in this case. After all, you can see the plethora of natural pro available in this rock. But only a single bolt, those rapers of the environment, climbers, put in. Come down and do the 2nd ascent Don. I'll yank the bolt I'm clipped before you go vertical for the next 100', and you'll be a pitch up from here, which this pic shows, if you want it. I'm serious. But don't drive on a road to get here, cause that's a rape of the environment and a trashing of the publics right for the land to be left in it's natural state. After all, it's a big friggan swath that the road will take and f* up and thats our land. So start walking buddy boy. It's your lead:

kLEAN kANTEEN IS FAILY WIDE, NOT ENOUGHT TO COOK ON.

Does anybody have any extensive experience or knowledge with the use of epoxy and U-Bolts for climbing? Other than this stuff: Link 1 -Austrailia sandstone bolting thesis (most academic) Link 2 -Safer cliffs.org Link 3 - epoxy data Link 4 -Greek limestone Bueller bolt mods Link 5 - Soft Sandstone Rock Anchor Testing at Swinburne SA Link 6 - Safeclimbing.org adhesives Link 7 -Safe climbing.org Link 8- Red River gorge Sandstone Please post clown pics in spray, please post real info here.

He bought one!

Ohhh, what is that noise? Oh look boyz and girls, its Uncle Bills E-mail program going off. Why it looks like a little Dawg there Bill. why yes it does.... Uncle Bill needs carbide bits for Chrismas boyz and girls.... auto-confirm@amazon.com to Contacts list Delete this message from "auto-confirm@amazon.com" hide details 2:32 pm (1 hour ago) date Oct 22, 2007 2:32 PM subject Your Order with Amazon.com signed-by amazon.com mailed-by bounces.amazon.com Thanks for ordering from Amazon.com! Your purchase information appears below. Want to manage your order online? If you need to check the status of your order or make changes, please visit our home page at Amazon.com and click on Your Account at the top of any page. *********************************************************** BILLING AND SHIPPING INFORMATION *********************************************************** Order Grand Total: $514.49 *********************************************************** ORDER DETAILS *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Order number: xxxxxxxx View your Order Summary online: http://www.amazon.com Shipping Method: Standard Shipping Subtotal of Items: $499.00 Shipping & Handling: $15.49 --------- Total for this Order: $514.49 Shipping To Bill Coe Shipping estimate for these items: October 24, 2007 1 "Bosch 11536VSR Litheon 36 Volt Lithium-Ion BBS Rotary Hammer" Tools & Hardware; $499.00 Ohhh look boyz and girls, Uncle Bill has some routes up his sleeves I'll bet! Nahhh, it's cause Uncle Bills just a gearwhore.

Where?

Ha ha Peter. Clown trolling. Sometimes it just happens. I didn't wake up this morning thinking I could troll a couple of adults into a juvenile discussion - it just happened. Like magic. 13 new routes last year. 2 bolts. 14 routes, 3 bolts. Now, I gotta go pay for "the Dawg"....... and Kev, I got "Squeeze Job" copyrighted as a route name so don't even think of going there and poaching the name (it was Jimmy O's idea anyway) see ya all later. -BTW- 1st pitch shown here went without bolts. Or pro. After the tree, it got vertical for over 100 feet and went on natural pro. I got lucky and belayed that part. It awaits a second ascent Dwayner and Pope. No pro P1, 5 pieces on P2 last 100'- no protection bolts. I think you can do it. Come down. Lets see?

Nahhh, I have to say Peter that I don't really give a flying fu*k if I piss off a couple of clowns, looking forward to it.

Meanwhile, back on the hunt for the Dawg: oh oh, what is that up there? Have another one without my sights..... Hopefully I don't piss off any notable clowns on this site: or his buddie: This stuff is life and death evidently. ___________________________________________________________________ What we need is some bolting pics: Holy shot Batman: it can't be....NO! It mustn't be...A Dreaded Bolt! Holy crap, it is. Are they really thinking that the last 100 ' of vertical might go? That if the leader falls, the piece they have behind the loose flake can rip and a BOLT may save their lives? Can they really believe they can do such an act of ENVIRONMENTAL terrorism? OH MY LORD, THEY DO! Are they taking the thrill out of climbing by adeding a bolt to a new 2 pitch line! OMFG! They put in a bolt! On lead but with a drill! How dare they? OMG OMG OMG OFMG Ohh the termidity. Oh the humanity! Oh how can we survive as a civilization? Oh MY! AND THEY DIDN'T ASK YOUR PERMISSION FIRST DAWG. OMG OMGOMGOMGOMG OMFG!Those cocksu*kers.

we all agree with that sediment.

Except I don't see bolting as an environmental attack like he does. Why doesn't he see the huge developement projects, LIKE the new rest area in Yos, or the new buildings there as real environmental destruction is beyond me. And frankly, I see the need for the new rest area, I draw the line at needless new bars, pizza restaurants, stores and hotels in that specific national park, but the NPS justs ignore my thoughts.

have a nice trip btw

Now, I've run things like that, and been paid to do it. I know what real work is like. So not to seem like a hypocrite here like some people on this thread who clip bolts and then complain about it, let me say I'm fine with some of the big developments happening, but just out yourself up front and say "OK, it's about the money. That's why we're doing it. " Like when they replaced all the washed out roads on Rainer. All the bolts in the world do not add up to a speck on the ass of some of these huge construction projects which happen in your parks, like the one at Beacon that just put a brand new concrete bridge and road in for the boat ramp at Beacon. Huge invasive project.

BTW, I cannot for the life of me, really, cannot fathom why the NPS uses stuff like this When in the old days 2000 Chinese could get the job done without it. My last trip back from Yosemite I watched a TV show ranger criticizing installing bolts as this major gross invasion of the wilderness, while at the exact moment, 300 yards away they were paving a new rest area with things like this: Yet you cannot see the lil bolts, they are as if a speck of nothingness in a vast sea. Yet Mt Rainer and Yos get these huge development deals happening with and and new roads for all the cars that need easy access, like your car. Huh? But you know all that and have most likely stepped up to that plate to correct that gross injustice against humanity, ethics and the environment eh Don? Or is it just easier for you to be the Elmer Gantry or the Rock Police making crow noises?

No can do, too wet for a backho down there. However, once it dries out, we'll bet the lil' thing down there along with a DC9 cat we'll call "Pope" as this replica demonstrates. Between "the pope" and "the dawg" we should about have her handled so go ahead and go off to play with your little friends and we'll get the real work done while you boyz are gone.

Hey bill.....looks like your response is an imature taunt. Good for you See kev, that's me with the Fro back there, he keeps posting this thinking I'm ashamed of what I use to be but I'm not. So I was once a tall black man with big hair and now I'm a short white guy going bald? Don't bother me at all. haha Please excuse me as now I'm off to ebay for a drill............ an extra large Mastriati model....which will be named "Dawg".

Well someone showed up to the thread without their sense of humor. This seals the name for sure. Me and "Dawg" are going to roam the west with our white hats on a white stallion, bolting for the poor boltless out there, standing up for good against.....some loud ass humorless crows out there. Oh wait, hang on, the phone is ringing...... Damn, they cancelled my order for the drill cause it's on backorder. Crap. I'll bet it's cause everyone else is getting one. In fact, I heard that they give all new climbers one at the gym if you sign up for that deluxe learn to climb package, the one with the balloons and the cake. Crap, I bet I'm just at the end of a long swarming line of bolting wantobee N00bs. Maybe I need to buy that new cordless power scissors and make like Edward Scissorhands: Bastards, they took my "Dawg" away. Well, we'll see about this......they won't get away with this kind of sh*t for long. They don't even know who they are messing with here. ....to be continued.....

Don't poach the projected potential squeeze jobs I'm going to do this winter and you'll be fine. You will recognize them by the fact that there are currently no bolts there. yet ______________________________________________________________ BTW, Pope, I need one of these babies. Maybe we can co-ordinate this and I can do a demo of my new tool for you out this way. I think it's time for a change up pitch, so in the spirit of fun and friendship, when it gets here I will be naming my new tool "The Pope". Hmmm...maybe "Dawg" sounds better. .......or "squeezejob"....awesome name. Wait, no can do bubba, I have that slated to be a route name real soon right near where that "Please remove these bolts" sign is right now. Hey, maybe that the name of that new route those guys squeezed in there?

Full text: "Flaming squirrel ignites car in Bayonne by N. Clark Judd Thursday October 18, 2007, 7:29 PM It's Rocky the Frying Squirrel! A kamikaze squirrel fell from the sky and detonated a Bayonne woman's car yesterday, police said today. Lindsey Millar, 23, and her brother, Tony, 22, were both home Wednesday at about 12:45 p.m. when Lindsey's car suddenly started burning outside their 42nd Street home. Tony Millar said firefighters told them it was the work of a buck-toothed saboteur that had been gnawing on overhead power lines connected to a transformer directly above the 2006 Toyota Camry. "The squirrel chewed through the wire, was set on fire, fell down directly to where the car was," Tony Millar said. "The squirrel, on fire, slid into the engine compartment and blew up the car. "They're always coming around here, chewing through the garbage," he added. Tony Millar says his sister was fully insured. "It's something to laugh about once she has a new car," he said. "It's not funny yet." Police said there were no injuries -- except for the squirrel, that is, which is dead. The Millars' home is decorated for Halloween, complete with a tiny plastic tombstone on their front lawn. Tony Millar said the family will consider dedicating the tombstone to the squirrel, who was not named."