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Doug_Hutchinson

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Doug_Hutchinson last won the day on December 5 2020

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About Doug_Hutchinson

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    enthusiast
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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    DirtyFacePk/N.BeaconHill
  1. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Wow, the ice conditions have been great lately...in Wyoming. In WA, conditions are taking the slow-is-smooth approach, it has just been a little too warm for too long. There is some ice out there if you are willing go hunting. Yesterday @Michael Telstadclimbed a new route on Chair Peak. The Upper West Side There is a lot of anticipation building for an upcoming cold snap to happen this weekend and beyond before the snow machine turns back on, so start sharpening yer tools...
  2. Perhaps the first ever double Chair climb/ski orbit in a day! Like Michael said, the best way to do it would be sans skis as a carryover but then you would miss thousands of feet of skiing icy avy debris in the dark, where's the fun in that?
  3. I have a crampon problem so need to sell at least one (or four?) pairs... Cassin Alpinist Tech crampons. Excellent condition, used three days and never filed just scratched the paint off. Includes pouch.Ad copy:Camp USA's lightest ice crampon for technical alpinismAggressive mono-point with secondary point for greater stabilityMicro-adjustable linking bar ensures a secure fitAnti-balling plates and carry case includedAutomatic compatibility for boots with toe and heel weltsSemi-Auto Toe and Heel Bails sold separately for semi-automatic compatibility Please respond to this add: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/d/seattle-camp-cassin-alpinist-tech/7254054972.html
  4. for sale Scarpa Phantom Tech boots

    Scarpa Phantom Techs, size US 10. These are the previous version. Used one season, probably 20 days. They are in good condition, one small crampon hole, which is completely patched and waterproof (see third pic). Please respond to Craigslist add: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/d/seattle-scarpa-phantom-techs-2018/7254048363.html
  5. La Sportiva Spantik. Excellent condition, used less than 10 days on snow only. Super warm boots with removable liners.They are size US 10.5 or Euro 44. I am usually a US 9.5 or 10 in boots and had to size up since these seem to run small. Please see pics and contact me via: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/d/seattle-la-sportiva-spantik-us/7254040601.html
  6. Blue Ice Warthog 45 backpack - 45 liters, size medium. Quiver of one, nearly perfect alpine climbing pack. I say nearly perfect because it did not have a way to lash crampons to the outside so I added elastic and a cord toggle to do just that. Great condition, just a a little dirt stain on the bottom. Comes with helmet detachable helmet holder. PLEASE VIEW PICS AND RESPOND TO THIS CRAIGLIST ADD IF INTERESTED: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/d/seattle-blue-ice-warthog-45-backpack/7251627486.html I live just south of downtown Seattle on N Beacon Hill and will be around every other day for the next 10 days. FeaturesBack torso length: M (47cm)Quick opening drawcord systemRemovable thermo-formed, semi-rigid back panel with aluminum staysRemovable sternum strap and padded waist belt with 2 gear loopsRemovable side compression straps2 ice axe holders with custom bucklesDetachable helmet holderHydration bladder-compatibleRope holderTwo zipped pocketsConstruction: 210D high-tenacity ripstop nylon 66Volume: 45LDimensions: 68x29x18cm (M)Weight: 994g / min 711g
  7. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Thanks for the sharing your experience on Chair @Eli Spitulnik. The technical climbing is often the easiest part of a Cascade alpine adventure, especially in the winter; and finding the descent gully/rap stations off Chair is not trivial. I have seen many slides on that slope your partner triggered - the loading is often way different on that climbers left side of the upper Chair Peak basin compared to the slope you ascend on the right to start the route. As soon as one enters the Source Lake basin the avalanche terrain exposure quickly ramps from challenging to complex and increases to straight up complex in the Chair basin - basically most of the approach/descent is one big terrain trap, so the forecasted avy danger for given day doesn't mean that much in that zone. Great TR! Sharing your experience is very educational.
  8. Ice Observations Page

    This is the greatest thing to happen to PNDub ice climbing since Showa released the Temres 282-02s, nice work @Kyle M!!!! The location maps are money. Do you think Frenchman Falls will be in tomorrow?? (That, of course, is a super funny nod, nod, wink, wink, joke) How much are you going charge for the premium version with the webcams and telemetry data associated with each climb?
  9. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Thanks for the link Kurt. Calvin is the next corner system, up and right (west), that was our plan B because it looks better now compared to the FA. Christian Junkar made this video of what we climbed. Does a good job of showing the current state of the ice, or lack thereof https://youtu.be/eb9cnOqKXg0
  10. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Ice is slowing forming, but it is still early. On Thursday (Dec 3), Tom and Christian scratched their way up Chair's NE Butt's left variation and reported snicey conditions - not recommended yet. Chair from Snoqualmie, looks more covered than it is: The three of us went reconning on Snoqualmie's NW Face yesterday, and managed to scratch two pitches up this slabby flow in a corner halfway between the Thunder Basin exit chute (AKA west ridge notch) and the Snot. This climb starts right of a large cave and looks like it would top out through a house-size chockstone. Anyone know its history and route name? We found several rap anchors. The exit chute is off to the right center edge of this photo: New York Gully, under very dry conditions: Pineapple Express/Blue Moon - thin but probably the farthest along currently: Turf Testament, still pretty turfy:
  11. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    I am preemptively (and prematurely) starting this thread in an attempt to consolidate ice conditions beta here. As the seasonal stoke is building, I have been involved in many offline conversations about the best way to share condition info. My vote is to not reinvent the wheel, and do it here; solely or in addition to any of the numerous (and ephemeral) Facebook forums. Since I am aware that posting to an internet-based forum is way too time consuming for many, next best would be to strongly encourage that you tag your local social media ice posts with #WAice. Last we talked, Kyle M was redesigning the internet to create a better ice conditions mousetrap. Even if he dazzles and amazes again, this can be the repository for unpolished beta that he later shines and geocodes up. To not be a complete tease, here is all I got now: Mt Baker seracs and the lower flows on Heliotrope have received a decent amount of activity in late Oct/early Nov. I don't think Cosley Houston fully formed and was climbed before the snow switch flipped ON the second week of November and access become challenging, but the early season skiing has been the best in years. My #WAice season began on Nov 13. Tom and I were hoping for some semi-alpine ice in the WA Pass zone but the deep, unconsolidated snow pack (21" fell the day we were there) meant cross country travel, even with skis, was nearly impossible and the pass closed for the season (very early) a few hours after we left. The consolation was getting the rust off on the practice roadcut ice along the highway below the Liberty Bell group: This morning (Happy Thanksgiving), I skied around Alpental Valley (can you say concrete) and as expected there was nothing/nada, nary a drip or drab to be seen. The snow is deep but the temps have been consistently too warm to get anything more than a few icicles forming. Based on the long term forecasts, it will be several weeks before any pick dulling may be possible in the Alpental zone. Mazama is reportedly all dry now too. It is still very early. Happy ice hunting.
  12. Sweet photos and TR! But don't tell anyone how awesome it is there... We we were the party arriving when you were leaving. Love that place. You got better snow but we had a little better weather (I assume).
  13. Wayne and I climbed this route on Sunday, thank you FAs! A really fun great addition. I think we had more ice on the mixed pitches than you (one week later) so could use screws most of the way. P2 was especially fun but both the mixed pitches were really great. Hope it doesn't fall apart during the warm up before more people can check it out. The top of P1 (right after the pillar) and the end of the last pitch had no barely any ice when we climbed it. Before I saw this, I posted some super shitty pics in the OR/WA thread in the ice climbing forum on this site (but yours are much better). You guys are on fire in Bridge River canyon with new routes!
  14. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    Add - uploading IG photos to CC.com from my phone in the back of a bar was so easy with the new software even I could do it after a few drinks, but they sure look funny (more saturated and pixelated) now that I am in front of a computer. Oh well, any content is better than no content.
  15. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    Just like everyone knows the best rock climbing area in Oregon is Beacon Rawk, in years like this one the best WA ice is found in Lil'wet. A cold air mass has been parked north of the border for the past several weeks so the ice up there now is good. On Saturday, Wayne and I climbed Capricorn = a classic Lillooet WI5 in the isolated Bridge River Valley. Sunday, we got the second ascent of Bitcoin Billionaire, a route first climbed a week ago by Danny O'Farrell, Hunter Lee and Steve Janes located a little out of view of the top of the pic above. It is a 7 pitch, M5/6, WI4 insta-classic with all the alpine essentials: a river ford, a snow slog to the base high up the valley, a fragile pillar start, two cool mixed chimneys, and a final phat curtain. The only thing missing was a bear attack, maybe someday.
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