eric8

cool thanks, a 6 pitch route as more appeal than a 4 pitch route, might get on it anyway though, will see

anybody climb this? What did you think? I noticed in the new guidebook it gets up graded to 11b but loses the bold statement mentioned on the roofs pitch that appears in the older version, not that I have either.

EF of LEX NW corner of north spire are the best 2 in imo

What were you climbing that you need TWO black aliens....Scary or maybe you where aid climbing?

if you can climb 5.10 then 80% of the aid is fix so cam hooks are unnecissary

There is the new start, to the right, to the DNB by the Canadians. Others?

looks good

Then how in the hell do you manage to climb with me? Nice work guys; sounds like a great trip. Your not the only one. I found it funny when he told me about the rule, followed by 10 sec of awkard silence until he said I was "okay though"

I terms of strictly classic alpine nature of the routes I have done west ridge of forbidden wins out. Has a glacier, moderately angled coulior, and a fun rock ridge. All the other routes are almost strickly snow and ice climbs or pure rock routes. And I thought both liberty crack and north ridge of stuart where better than slesse. But niether one is as good as rebel yell...

at least the first pitch of apes is clean haven't ventured out onto the second yet so don't really know. Most of the routes on the cheeks stay clean because it is so steep. By fix I believe jens means fix a rope acrossed it.

this would make a great thread for rockclimbing.com

what olyclimber no mention of when i dropped coils on you from great hieghts?

at 55 you might suggest that you were travelling with the flow of traffic. Though I do like the making and a court day and calling in sick, didn't know you could do that.

okay than. It just seem's that it would be better to ask what specificially has worked for people vs what everyone does. I'm guessing that most peoples training programs you don't want to repeat. And than there is the issue of what exactly qualifies as training. I know i guy who plays rec. soccer 2-3 nights a week and he can be hard to keep up with. And folks who backcountry ski almost every week seem to have above average cardio. but niether of these might classifiy as training. Additionally the best training is simply climbing so how does that fit in . but if your not intending to use it than, whatever. Oh and I supplement my diet with a daily dose of chocalate chip cookies.

I think a new rule for saying a route is sandbagged is that you should be able to climb several letter grades harder. Like back when I was a 10- climber I thought Breakfast of Champions was damn hard for 10-, and dogleg crack pretty hard for 5.8. Two routes mentioned in that other thread. Now I think 10- is right for breakfast of champions and dogleg is still hard for 5.8.

A random poll seems rather pointless. The skills levels and interest of people vary so much that its not going to mean anything. Rumor isn't going to train the same way as someone whose primary interest is ski mountaineering for example. unless you just wanted to compare how dedicated you where verus EVERYONE else which again seems pointless.

so inconclusion teletips.com is like the rockclimbing.com of the skiing world?

hmm. I have never had a probelm with bugs in the winespires. I climbed clean break the 3rd weekend in July last year and don't remeber any bugs.

Please explain to me how leading a pitch on Ingalls slowly with lots of pro is endangering the follower. Still waiting for an answer to this one. Since when is zipping up an easy route "dangerous" to the follower? The only way I could think of it is if you take so damn long that bad weather rolls in or you have to rappell in the dark. exactly or re-read alpinek's post

that's total bullshit. and there's no difference between a noob deciding whether to climb behind a mountie he knows nothing about or hooking up with random CC-com people he knows nothing about either. it's up to anyone taking up this sport to do due diligence in picking climbing partners and as for the follower putting their life in the hands of the "inexperienced leader" - that cuts two ways - the leader is putting their life in the hands of the inexperienced follower - a much more dangerous proposition. and as for your typical asshole comments, go yourself, dickhead. Except someone with experience will be able to pick an objective they are comfortable climbing and be able to make an assessment on there partners skill level after having a 5 minute conversation with them. The beginning mountaineers rely on the mountaineers to do that for them. On climbs that are to difficult for them to do without the "leader". Also the mountaineers don't exactly teach self realience. They teach people how to handle specific situations which isn't bad but don't confuse it with the ability to adapt to different situations. Finally, what your saying is that it is a shitty deal for both the leader and the follower? Since often both are inexperience couldn't agree more.

realize how much of climbing is mental. Shit that scares you and me generally doesn't bother your geninue badass. Work on getting your rock skills up and spend time working on your weakness you know those things the rest of us don't do like offwidths, runout friction slabs, chimneys, etc. and yeah if you never have a girl friend you don't have anyone to distract you from climbing.

do you like others to control your level of adventure? Do you use SuperTopos?

Harry last time I checked Indian Creek was sandstone and no one mentioned climbing sandstone here. My reasons behind the granite/basalt statements are 1.Granite is slabbier in general and so requires better footwork and/or better technique. 2. in general there are more features for feet in the lower gorge and at tieton than at index/leavenworth. So I find myself high stepping less. 3. You can just stem a lot of basalt cruxes, this ties in with #2. 4. I onsight harder at the lower gorge/tieton than I due at index/leavenworth and I climb at index/leavenworth way more so I attribute that to my shitty technique/footwork

lost a charlet moser picket on the colchuck lake trail this weekend. had orange chord attached to it. Would be grateful for its return.