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eric8

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Everything posted by eric8

  1. Yes the cracks at the lower gorge are nice. however, climbing basalt cracks doesn't require the technique that granite cracks do. so for a crack workshop climbing granite cracks is the way to go.
  2. liberty crack- the aid is almost entirely fixed and not sure if it counts but routes like the north face of shuskan which are hikes know become ice climbs by late season
  3. Yes I understand your point about the core memebers peter. but say for example we are counting Stephen Ramsey as a core member because we are counting him as 1 of our 2 cc.om accidents last weekend. He has 400 post over 4 years, how many poeple on this board have over 400 post? Probably at least 100 which is still sigficantly more than more than number of climbers i would be in contact with outside this board....
  4. okay Peter or anyone else with time on your hands. Think back through and come up with all of the cc.com accidents in the last year. Since Peters definition of a core member is subjective you should just be able to think of the posters who have accidents in the last year. But do define what you cosider an accident, a sprained ankle? broken bone? a lost tooth? rescue called but not needed? serious rescue with liters, in field first aid etc.. this obviously is not very scientific but i am having a hard time believing there are sigifigantly more cc.com accidents than general climbing population. Because cc.com connects me with 10000 plus climbers whose accidents i hear about outside of cc.com i know about 30 climbers...
  5. fattys favorite 2/3 cup butter 2/3 margeren 1 white sugar 1 cup brown sugar 2 eggs teaspoon vanilla mix add 3 cups floor mix slowly couple cups of oatmeal couple cups of diced pecans 1 bag semi sweet chocalate chips mix place on cookie sheet bake at 350. best severed while warm.
  6. like many of you I knew Charlie he was an awesome guy this sucks
  7. bump, anyone?
  8. go climbing with a motivated partner on something that challenges you, something kinda long to. motivation can be infecious. similary climbing 5.8's with an unmotivated partner can be as depressing as your daily whack off in the shower additionally motivation can be gained from the fact that if an uber hottie like steph davis sees you and she climbs harder than you she will probably think your a tool
  9. is this another round of state the obvious?
  10. i want to say tumwater tower and something on the drip wall but i know those are both way off.
  11. there seems to be a lot of interest in the "young" crew surrendering this thing they call bouldering. And most of them get out about bimonthly...aside from climbing in the gym 3-4 nights a week maybe more. there also seems to be a resoanable number of people out climbing with there sigficant other. Which generally conists of doing laps on ingalls, the tooth, and castle rock. So Jens while you are getting up early for your car to car ascent of the girth pillar they are still sleeping. And then when you are hiking out they are drinking beers. Boulders seem to operate under similar hours.
  12. As a somewhat frequent poster of this board once told me "never teach your girlfriend to surf"
  13. i want to play to, Route #4 might be easiest yet edited only to add an identification number
  14. Didn't Kordes and Wharton lose a bunch of cams on trango tower due to there gear sling coming untied?? crackers that was a good post
  15. I rack gear on my harness. Because I to find it gets in the way on my harness. In reality its probably best to get used to using both. I climb with some people who really want a gear sling. So I use that when i lead because its eaiser than taking the gear off the sling at every belay. Then there are some routes with long approaches when taking a gear sling with just extra useless wieght.
  16. all of laytons routes
  17. i once saw oly climber belay at index. he was chestbeating about his night time belay duties on the tooth the whole time though
  18. if the whole washington pass traverse seems a bit much its pretty resonable to do just the wine spires. and you get to climb rebel yell too
  19. kinda of funny that on the same web page they say canary is 3 pitches, and has a move that is at least 5.10
  20. Jens what about grivel picks, metoloius power cams, and .... coffee
  21. well do you like alpine climbing or cragging more? You can obviously do both at both but each is considered world class for different reasons
  22. of the few kids i have taken out trad climbing. Those who have gotten strong bouldering in the gym seem to do better than those that climb routes. Of course the selection pool for this study is like 10 people and there are gender biases as well like the guys generally seem to boulder and the girls generally climb routes. Though not always the case.
  23. eric8

    crag Beer

    I'm more of a fan of the handme down down jacket with the ascent patch. I'm just trying to pretend like I have been around forever and I am roughing it.
  24. eric8

    crag Beer

  25. north facing stuff is snowy and icy bring your tools if you know where to look. South facing stuff was dry and in the sun for part of saturday. bring your shoes
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