eric8

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its funny how your impression of a route has just as much to do with you as it does with the route. For your skill level, goals, your partner, conditions, are all going to have an impact on any given route. I saw someone list serpitine arete as being one of the worst and i might agree with that but I'm sure to aladsair and ade who climbed it in much different conditions it was awesome.

then it will make you feel really good or just wierd you out when someone told me that you climb 5.11.

thank you I know of at least two other parties who made one day attempts in winter and failed

we didn't know that they were up there till we were 2000ft up the route.

yes I'm thinking we climbed the line 50ft left of you

looking at oly climbers photo zoom that is almost certainly us. With the fluting we traverse over visable as well. So maybe that is the variation. But from below it did not seem like it at the time as we stated right of the treed rib which i thought defined the "coulior" and was thinking that the wi3 circum navagation mention in wa ice was on the otherside of that

haha like i said earlier the internet is funny, i was just trying to make what we did clear since i was not sure if what we did was the wi3 variation in some guidebooks or if that how the route was in the condition we found. The cornice sure felt like the crux anyway... and besides we are seperated by this blasted thing called the internet which means i must have the last word ps. did you climb the north face of index the other week? I thought i saw a post you made about conditions being good... perhaps since you like to spray you could enlighten us

then its not us we never actually left the coulior simply climbed the headwall on its left side at wi3 and it looked like the right side would go at wi4 or 4+. Upon topping off the headwall we had to traverse right over a fluting to get back into the main coulior as the coulior narrow down. At no point was i thinking that we were bypassing the crux only that coodinition allowed us to climb an easier line than other folks reported. And Avitripp this is sounding most excellent. Would you be a dear and bring the guidebook I won't want you to make fun my guidebook choice by bring a select guidebook or something

okay, just as long as there are no bouldery starts

is this point where you challenge me to a weekend in squamish bachar style??

sounds like some nice rock climbing aye Jens

actually looking at the photo I don't think we were that far left but whatever

oh damn we have been outed, there was a protected belay on the left side of the coulior, its amazing how much shit comes down the spindrift coulior when there is a party climbing above you. Plus it seemed a bit contrived to climb a grade 4ish pitch when there is a grade 3ish option still in the same coulior with a better belay half a rope length to the left

haha, its a small world. I climbed it yesterday with John Cooper aka SmilingWhiteKnuckles I believe. For those of you who where debating the conditions they are great. Get it before it dumbs again. We meet up with Bill and Pete on descent. Descend the face just before the gully which was dumb, but worked out okay. Bill when you read this I have your pocket knife pm your address and I'll mail it to you. a couple photos

bent gate carbiners fat ropes and... BD tools

Where do they get this stuff? What do they mean by many? Do they mean 4 art history and Communications majors or greater than 50%? I have just about the worst language skills of any of my friends and I still think that those would be considered simple tasks. And i should graudate in a year or so. Sorry I realize that your point was about the Wasl. Just the fucking press in this country pisses me off. Anyway I don't think you can really compare Wasl scores to skills sets of graudating college students since the wasl is for highschool students and last time I checked only 25% of graudating highschool seniors went on to 4 year universities. For the Wasl itself. My mom teaches 7th grade English. Meaning the students she teaches have to take and pass the wasl. At first she did not like the WASL testing however last time I talked to her about the wasl she was for it. Her reasoning was that it gave her specific skills she had to teach and other 7th grade teachers would be doing the same thing. So hopefully all kids would be going into 8th grade with the same skill set. The biggest reason she was for it though, was because in a few case where students have been on the boardline of passing she has seen increased parent interest, which she believes has been sharply declining in the past 20 years she has been teaching. All is not well with the system though. I know she gets upset when students who are ESL are still expected to pass the Wasl like everyone else, espically when they have been in the country for say less than a year.

This is short of the idealized internet version. Lifting is often used in wieght lost programs and I'm certianly not saying you shouldn't lift to lose wieght. But your not going to be able to add muscle and shred fat at the same time. If calories in > calories burn = tissue added (type of tissue dependent on type of food, time of eating, lifestyle, hormones, etc. If calories in < calories burned = loss of tissue aka is loss of fat and muscle agian the ratio is subject to variables.

yeah, but prices with flux with holidays and what not

yes the last time i stayed at the Alkali it was 65$ a night and the quote i got from the drake was a little more can't remeber exactly

take him to the uw rock

The bow valley motel is 72 a night for 4 people outside the xmas season. And they have a hot tub. I pefer the canmore hotel if no band is playing that night, unless i feel like partying that night, its 40 a night. But it might be to much of a cockroach battle. Evan thomas creek, moonlight, snowline, etc are all 3 or 4 but are also every popular. the highest concentration is probably up along the parkway, weeping wall, snivelling, shades of beaty, whimper wall, etc. but the ghost can be good to valley of the birds, this house of sky, weathering heights, sunshine and Camping can be quite reasonable in winter up there as temps are often right around freezing in canmore.

cool i would rather read about what people climbed and what routes then enjoyed than pages about of useless drivell... but just to fuel the fire.. I don't climb ice with that many folks and this is based solely on my ice climbing partners. Every partner i have that makes an annual trip to the rockies can lead wi5 versus the ones that climb ice lilloet or in wa most of whom many lead 3's maybe the occasional 4....

so if your going to chest beat josh please do it properly and tell us what you climbed. Bonus thumps if you have pics of leading narly shit.