eric8

Chamonix has granite You can go skiing or rockclimbing in Itlay when the weather sucks. And of course the ice/alpine climbing is awesome.

Chamonix has granite You can go skiing or rockclimbing in Itlay when the weather sucks. And of course the ice/alpine climbing is awesome.

i love how Nemisis is 6+ in that movie

This week anyone? Index or Leavenworth depending on weather.

where are you leaving from?

its my left arm and I have never been able to effectively masturbate with that arm

So it seems like whenever I start to really push myself for a period of time long enough to improve my left bicep gets sore/tender and the feeling continues into my forearm. This does not happen after just one day of hard climbing but usually takes more than a few days of hard climbing(ie pushing myself) to feel it. For example, I climbed last Saturday, Monday, Wednesday, Saturday, and then started feeling it yesterday(Sunday). I don’t believe its overtraining because I have been taking rest days and eating well. I also don’t have this problem in winter when I’m ice climbing and training pull-ups and lock offs. Someone told me they thought it was a pinched nerve. I web md that and don’t believe it to be the case. Any thoughts? Similar experiences?

julies should be fine that route is classic

you can top rope it by doing the perserse traverse and raping in, the last move is the crux...

I lack any form of gainful employment so I can go climbing whenever. I suppose I do alpine routes, too.

Looking for people to go climbing midweek at index or 32. I live by the 405-522 interchange so index is ~45minutes away. I would be willing to go to other places for a couple of days at a time.

Full disclosure: I'm not "the man" just trying not to suck at climbing. I climbed the direct start on a Saturday with an English climber and bailed with 2 pitches to go, due to 3 parties infront of us and falling ice, that was my choice. Then climbed the Gervasutti pillar start which is like 2 pitches of 5.8 to reach the ice by myself. Jeff Lowe calls it M6 wi4+ the French guidebook aurthor calls it M6 scottish 5+. The route I soloed was 5.8 wi4. If anyone is looking for a partner in France my email is egratATu.washington.edu I'm here till the 15. Jesse how many pullups can you do now? Appereantly, I can do 80 according to folks who have never seen me do one. Anyway I'm going to go skiing know as it snowed last night for the first time in awhile and spending time and money at the internet joint in Chamonix is lame.

WOW! this thread would be better suited for the mountaineers board or rockclimbing.com

I have friends, both forged and tech, and most of my partners have camalots so I have climbed on both about equally. Generally, speaking your going to like whatever you climb on more. Both get the job done, I have taken falls on both brands and had both brands pull before, to. So its really just about the placement. But here are the pros and cons as I see them. Camalots have a flexible stem, a wider range per unit on average and the trigger seems to be less sticky or could that be because all the c4s my partners have are less then 2 years old? The cons are they weigh more, cost more, are more prone to getting stuck, and are less durable. I don't really like friends smaller than 1.75 size and see no reason to buy camalots above number 3 friend. The larger cracks are almost always deep enough that you can place forged friends in horizontals without tie offs. Small sizes this is not the case and so I like tcu's or aliens. Its okay to mix brans. Even if people start giving you strange looks. tcus, camalots to 1 or 2 and friends to top it off is the way to go.

Cool, thanks for the replies. I guess I should have been more specific in that I'm interested in learning more things people do to avoid finger injuries. Some of you addressed that, thanks, mostly stuff I already knew like climb open handed, avoid monos, etc. Listening to your body is probably the biggest/hardest one to do. I have a pretty good background in wieght lifting so climbing it seems actually balanced out muscle structure. My probelm is that I seem to hurt a finger every fall in the gym. So I was trying to start something now that will help prevent injury next fall. I think the reason for this is that I climb outside and gain muscle on tendon friendly holds all summer and then start climbing in the gym on untendon friendly holds and my tendons can't take it. Thats why I was/am contemplating hangboarding once a week or every other week this summer to slowing build up finger strength to prevent injury. I should definetly drink more water and start taking some sort of antioxidants. Bill while crossfit isn't a bad thing help keep a base level of fitness for alpine, espically if you have limited time. Its does little for rock climbing, imo.

So there are lots of posts on what to do if you hurt a tendon. But I am wondering what people do to prevent injuries. One of the best climbers I know once told me "the key to getting strong is to train without getting hurt". While that seems pretty obvious it is easier said than done. So what do people do for there fingers. Things I am aware of -taking fish oil, msm, glucosime -rest days -warming up, stretching, warming down what about -using a hangboard both to get stronger but also as injury prevention -ways to increase blood flow to your forearms and speed up recovery time. I read Andy Reather uses an e-stim device. Not that I'm going to buy one but there have to be other ways like running, squeezing balls, heating pads.. -others

The ice will probably crap by know but I will go drytooling/mixed climbing if anyone is down.

actually we left a bomber angle fixed...

so where were you climbing.

Cool, way to go. There was never enough ice on the chimney the two times i was there to place a screw. Kinda makes me want to go back but alas I imagine it is to warm now.

why go to erie when you could go to index?

my 3 would be mountain loop cascade river road hwy 20 thats not very likely but maybe mountain loop highway 20 to wa pass from the east and one strobach road would be more practical

the north side really isn't that steep. It will be mostly a snow climb or worse a flutings climb

Good job on "dialed" I was looking at that one, too. We didn't seem to have enough daylight though. The OW just left of the chimney looks cool as well. I should add that I went back in there with Ade the weekend after Jason and I climbed there. Ade lead a grade 3 pillar on the right side of the upper tier. Its not mentioned in the book. While looking for the next route to climb we set off 3 avalaches and therefore decided to climb elsewhere.

The horror!