eric8

no for me thats an alpine route. I was thinking along the lines of 100m left of alptental 1 falls there is a short m5ish route that sometimes forms a number 3 camalot protects the crux.

I was thinking today after falling to lead something ground up that I have never climbed a mixed pitch in wa that wasn't in the mountains or a bolted thing at the black ice wall. The pitches in the mountains your not really going to fall off and the stuff at the black ice its "okay" to. It would be nice to have something that blurred the line, so to speak. Work on both the lead head and being efficent at getting good gear. It seems that there should be a lot more of that than what is the wa ice guide. Does that make any sense? Snoqualmie pass seems to have good potential, what have people done? Any decent lines around pan dome?

anyone know anything about those mixed routes up mtns creek.

can someone please explain to me why folks from Seattle frequent hylite when the cnd rockies have the same drive time?

sorry everybody haven't login for a bit. I have a partner for tommorow. I might have some work lined up for early next week will know later tonight.

in the spirit of crack workshop you might have to take of pitches 2 and 3 of the rg route. Since you have to climb a 10b pitch to reach them. and the idea is repoint all the 5.7's than all the 5.8's

I have the early part of next week free. i don't ski but only moderately suck at the ice climbing thing. Might be down with going to lilloet or banks...

whats the drive time from pdx to hyalite? why not go to the Rockies?

i and many of my peers will use the word bouldery for any route which has crux sigificant harder then the rest of the route it doesn't have to be at the start. ie, full sag, thin fingers, angel, etc.

well i only climbed it once. and it wasn't very think. I would have a hard time believing its ever anything more than 3 or 3- since terrian there is so low angle

I was supposed to go to the rockies but my buddy just busted his heel. I would like to climb something with tools, ice alpine, mix, etc. I don't have an car, live in the seattle area. Additionally you must be able to follow wi4 fast.

nice to see him sporting the ever popular ninja outfit

haha, i dare you to do even one of the easy probelms Gary does on a regular basis. maybe just a double intergal or something simple like that.

photos I'm curious what an honest 3 looks like

probably be some stuff to stratch around on. the eky to forming ice is melt/freeze cycles. I would be going if i didn't have finals

-My main ice climbing partner to break up with his girlfriend, we really climb together best when there is an equal level of angst -his heel to get better too, dam ledge falls -that one time i dropped a screw yeah i want it back - tools with unbreakable picks that stick the first swing everytime -a condo in canmore - and a break from school so i can live there -and thermos that never runs out of hot cocco

She didn't like to practice multiplication? pily. haha Gary I'm sensing a trend here....

here you go Nemisis in 5+ conditions Jens battling -25C temps Racing daylight to the top hard ice and broken picks make for slow climbing Jens enjoying the sun on weeping wall right

climbing

scenic fixed link to image for you Eric

well if you replace the two smith routes, moonshine and karake crack with madsons chimney and crack of doom mentioned by mistermo. Then the list is basically index and leavenworth with one weekend of climbing at squamish and one weekend of climbing at tieton. Won't be to hard to make it exculsively index and leavenworth either. That said i wonder if having a list is going to make a difference for people. The good climbers i know usually just get effing stoked about climbing and are always coming up with there own projects to challenge them. And whole thing in the jtree was on redpointing routes, which i guess is fine. But onsighting is way cooler. I know that i had to lead way more than 10 10- routes before i got my first 10c onsight.

I'm pretty sure its orange tcu or super tight .5 camalot, I can't convert to tricam sizes though I always plug a piece in at the start, hand traverse sans heel hook as this lets me go much faster, than high step on to the rail at the end and reach back to place a piece to protect my second

here you go mostly classics because those are the only names i can remeber without a guidebook infront of me 5.8 GNS Fist Crack Dogleg Crack thin hand Classic Crack hand Eds Jam Tarus finger crack and Chimney Canary pitch 1 South face of jello tower 5.9 Heart of Country Fist Crack Toxic shock/lieback start Up up and away (pennylane) hand Princy ambitions face finger crak Pennylane hand Damnation fist stem Godzilla varies Moonshine Dihedral stem 1st pitch of davis holland The Bone 5.10- Breakfast of champions (H) Arrowroot (F) karate crack (H) Split Beaver (fist-ow) Brass balls (roofs, hand, fist, finger) Sagittarius (fist) Exotic dancer (stem) A swingin affair (hand) The zipper (thin finger) 2nd pitch of Davis Holland (thin hand) last pitch of narrow arrow direct(OW) 5.10+ (yikes these mostly all thin finger cracks) sloe children f thin fingers h the 10d finger crack right of purejoy at tieton leap of faith thin h 1st pitch of lamplighter chimney face zoom thin crack/face Debs crack(haven’t actually climbed it) thin 3rd 10d pitch of narrow arrow direct everything Smut face