eric8

I think one of the down sides of the selects is it sigfigantly harder to talk someone into climbing something not in one of the guidebooks. Or at least the people I climb with because we are all gubbers, unless its a FA or FWA then it could be choss and some folks we still be down. I haven't been climbing as long as some of you folks, but I have done 35 routes of all difficulties in Nelsons 1st select in the 4 years I have been climbing. Not to bad.

The two times I have been down bridge creek the theft hasn't had much ice on it. Never been to Hyalite. I always thought Shreddie looked baddass and maybe even climbable by mortals. Terminator is obviously spectalur but I'm going to go with Polar Circus because that much ice so close to the road is definetly RAD!

Would it not cost more to machine a 22cm screw is threads all the way? what about wieght difference?

aren't there like 4 threads on this topic due a search

If its a dream, dream big The moonflower buttress North pillar of Fitzroy Trango tower

After hiking to mousetrap on saturday and seeing it spurt water my friend and I went to sumallo bluffs. We climbed the bus-kippan route. There was lots of snow on the ice and it was a bit rotten, not to bad though. There is a sweet looking mixed route on the wall of above the route. The posting holing through side alder or the river crossing was probably the crux. The other routes on the cliff look good too.

freerider, liberty bell

most of us are moderate climbers

mantel up, and go to the finger pocket with your right hand

Isn't the crux getting to the undercling on iron horse? I know a couple of folks who have onsighted new industry and model work so I would elimante those. At 10b I nominate klaus von bulgrow and the alogirthim of love, I would be very surpised shocked even if a 10b leader could onsight that opening sequence. At little si my friend who onsighted rainy day, didn't onsight aborigine...

I think the limiting factor for most pnw ice climbers is access getting enough solid days out on the media. In general we all have horrible technique, look at the photos in the cc.com photo gallery if you want proof. When I led my first pitch of grade 5 ice I could do 12-13 strict pullups. Now i can do double the number of pullups but can't lead any harder. Or look at the fitness requirements mentioned in Glad's book to be a competent wi5 leader, not that difficult. That said climbing alpine and ice routes in winter tends to be physically demanding so I like to do crossfit twice a week, thow in a little extra cardio, pullups, core strength exercises and a session or two on the plastic plus climbing on weekends...

helping, because if you pick up on the sublties in that post they will tell you that ice formation is a complex matter involving not only temperature but aspect, elevation, water flow rate, etc.

31.9 degrees for 18.9 hours minimium.

thaw-freeze = hard snow, happens once a twice a year and pickets can be bommber than.

Awesome Alex, where is that? I'll play too! Wicked Wanda, obviously But My Daddy's a Physco from Virtual Reality yet another weeping wall right photo climber= Jens

actually I'm fat and weak but my technique is marginally okay so i make up some stuff, occasionally

wtf? Jens, ever climb a challenging run out trad pitch? Tests you more than any clip up.

the brand of crampon you have probably doesn't matter a whole lot for pure water ice routes. I like to spend the first day of the season climbing thin ice routes on top rope and try to only hook. This improves both your footwork and gives you a feel for your tools.

haha and you wonder how you get finger injuries. Could one day pass be used at all four locations? Talk to me later about this as I would pefer to go ice climbing over break but if I'm in town and its raining... ps. to be seriously hardcore we could tack on all the routes at my gym too

you can't compare two totally different styles of climbing when comparing grades. Additionally what the hell is nw 5.10? Every area is grade differently. Climb more bitch about grades less.

awesome! thanks guys have to hit those two up this fall than.

do any of you know if Klaus von Bulow is resonnably clean? Guidebook seems to make mention of this as being an alternative to sloe children.

aren't all/most of your finger injuries from climbing in the gym? Why not just use the gym to keep a base line of fitness and letting go anytime you feel like you might pull something. Pull the hard moves outside. This is what my friend does, he takes msm instead of gluc., too. He is 2 years injury free now and its seen him up to 12+ and v8, not to bad for a weekend warrior.

I think Dru's description was pretty good. Though he maybe factoring in approach times too which i don't. I know the approach/hike out on the ne butt on slesse took about as long if not longer than the climb. I also think lots of quote classic grade V are know grade IV thanks to rising standards, liberty crack, slesse ne but, beckey-chounaird etc. ps. Jens I am sure your route on johanessburg was harder and longer than slesse but you can't really compare times for new routes with times on well travelled classics!

those are all good Jens, but really you just need someone who is willing to lead there share of sporty pitches and doesn't hang to much when you lead one.